6" Rough Country Lift 1982 Flareside

Gary Lewis wrote

I like to quench the bolt with PB Blaster after I've heated it.  The shock sometimes breaks it loose.  Good luck!

It currently soaking. When I get home tonight I'll give it a good heat up and quench. Thanks for the tip.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Ray, did you remove the axle clip from inside the diff housing?

What exactly do you mean by "lower bolt from the radius arm"
Where it bolts to the beam?

Sorry if I'm asking a stupid question.
I don't usually work on the light duty 150's

I do not know what axle clip you are talking about. I removed all the diff bolts and it slid right off the axle.

The lower bolt holding the radius arm onto the swingarm.

Just remembered I took a pic Jim....

Are you trying to pull the axle out towards the inside? I suppose that bolt could be obstructing you then, the alternative would be removing the spindle and pulling the axle out... But you are replacing the radius arms? Or only the brackets?

I think I managed those bolts with an impact, but the upper ball joints required something more. Maybe you can try this on those? Good luck!

Rob, yes. I thought about pulling the spindle but the hole in the knuckle doesnt look big enought to slide the axle out that way. The spicer joint looks way too big to come out that hole.

I've never seen anyone try to remove an axle with the knuckle in place.

I guess that's why I didn't understand.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I've never seen anyone try to remove an axle with the knuckle in place.

I guess that's why I didn't understand.

You know what?.....im a moron. It just dawned on me that removing the spindle would give me enough room to drop the knuckle.....ugh....I didnt have to remove the diff after all!!! UGHHH!!!!

I guess the good news is I no longer need to worry about the lower radius arm bolt....

You're obviously not a moron Ray.

Maybe, you're smart enough to know that you ain't that smart.  😉

ArdWrknTrk wrote

You're obviously not a moron Ray.

Maybe, you're smart enough to know that you ain't that smart.  😉

Exactly...

I dont get by on my brains, I get by on bud light.

BUD LIGHT MATTERS

As you can see from my picture the axle does slip out once the spindle is removed. It's a tight fit, but it does go.

Of course removing the spindle can be an issue.

I was wondering why you pulled the diff. Sorry I didn't chime in earlier. And I see from the earlier post that you are using the original radius arms. So this is all just to get that stock eccentric sleeve out, yes? Mine looked like they were part of the axle housing(fused in with rust), but I think they came out reasonably easy with a chisel. I honestly can't remember which leads me to think that it was easy...

I hope you've made progress.

Rob, no way my axles will slide out. There is some sort of mud sheild on the axle that has a larger diameter than the hole in the knuckle. Thats the whole reason I decided the axle must come out the other way.

Anyway, I worked 14 hours today and just read to my boys, so I didnt get jack diddly squate done on the truck today.

I replied to someone yesterday about those axle slingers, but evidently they weren't what what they were describing.
Does keep a vast majority of the muck out of there though.

Jim, the picture of that 'axle slinger'(whatever it is) looked like it was on the diff side of the joint, which would allow it to just slide off once the axle is pulled from the diff. Mine didn't have those and I think Ray has something else.

Ray, I am curious to see how yours is different from mine.

My "Slingers" cover the back side of the knuckle and look like they protect the hub from debris coming through the ID of the spindle.

Also, according to the documentation section, I have an early D44 with the 3 bolt retainer for stup shaft, 3.50s, open diff, manual locking hubs, TTB.

Here is a pic of mine. From your picture above it looks like there is another 'collar' behind the spindle seal on yours, is that what you are referring to?

Rob. Yes I was referring to that.

However, yesterday I removed the spindles. To my amazement the axles slide right out through the knuckles! It was tight, but they slide out.

So, I got the drivers side eccentric out. I put the axle on the bench, removed the ball joint nut on the lower one. Tapped the knuckle loose. Turns out that upper ball joint was about shot. Which is surprising, the passenger ball joints are nice and tight. The only one needing replacing is the upper drivers side. I'll go ahead and do upper and lower on drivers side, no sense in not doing both while I am there. They were easy to press out with the harbor freight 20 ton press.

The eccentric bushing came right out.

So....I have everything apart....now I know Gary was right about peeling onions. I am thinking now I might powerwash, degrease, and put some POR 15 on everything to clean it up a bit.

You might consider, while peeling the onion, replacing the eccentrics.  I like the ones that give full adjustment, but make sure you put them in with anti-seize so the shop can adjust them when the time comes.

 I would have been very surprised if your axles didn't fit even with the extra collar. Certainly would have been a design flaw...

Glad you got it all sorted. I second the recommendation for adjustable bushings, although you've already done the passenger side, something to consider I think. And POR or Chassis Saver while you're in there...