4X4 Shifter Selector Removal

I've gutted my interior for the installation of my new carpet and want to remove the 4x4 shifter selector on the floor. It appears that it is attached at two points, one  of which will likely pry off, the other I'm assuming wrenches off. I've attached a photo of the points of attachment and would like confirmation on removal. That bolt is 1 1/8" as I put a socket on it. I also attempted to put a little force on it but it did not budge. Before I go he-man on it, want to confirm that it is indeed threaded and removal is CCW? Thanks!  

 



   

Attempted removal of seatbelts. Jeez, these don't come out easy.



Floor has not seen daylight since 1986. Floor looks good, I think. I'm going to DA it with #80 grit, spray it with epoxy, then Lizzard Skin it. Found a few goodies in there. Was hoping to find a build sheet but no luck.

You'll probably have better luck disconnecting the shift lever from the transfer case rather than the lever itself. Those capture grommets or whatever they're called are TOUGH and it takes a decent amount of leverage and force to break them free. The linkage should be attached at the transfer case by a nut, just loosen that nut and slip the linkage off there. Then remove the large pivot bolt on the transmission extension housing and the lever assembly will be free.

Also keep in mind that the capture bushing on the bottom is like finding hens teeth if it breaks while trying to dissamble it. I had drilled a hole in the pin and put flat washers and a cotter pin holding mine together for years.

/\  /\  What they said!

Floor does look good, though.  But don't loose that little plastic piece or you'll need another when you put your corner trim back in.  

John, When I did mine, I removed the big bolt and disconnected the shifter lever at the transfers case. There is enough room to remove it from the hole in the floor. Reason for me to reply is to remind you to replace the Teflon bushing and washers when you put it back, as I did not, my shifter is now giving a minor vibration, and with the floor back installed its much harder to get to it.

Thanks fellas! Right after seeing Shaun's post, I removed the shifter as he suggested and had it out in ten minutes. I've messed with those "capture grommets" in the past and after reading Shaun's comment recollected the trouble they gave me. Saved me a lot of grief. You guys are great!

Andre, I'll check into those bushings. I need a new boot for the shifter lever so will add them to the mix.

On a slightly different note, but another item for replacement, is the mirror glass in my driver's side mirror. The mirror has a small chip and crack in it. Looks like it was hit with one of those cheap BB guns from a distance.....been there for years now. Thought I saw replacement mirror glass for it in an LMC catalogue. Anybody know how to replace it?      

Gary Lewis wrote

But don't loose that little plastic piece or you'll need another when you put your corner trim back in.  

Gary, that white piece and the metal floor plug were the extras I found under the insulation.....LOL!  

Machspeed wrote

Andre, I'll check into those bushings. I need a new boot for the shifter lever so will add them to the mix.

On a slightly different note, but another item for replacement, is the mirror glass in my driver's side mirror. The mirror has a small chip and crack in it. Looks like it was hit with one of those cheap BB guns from a distance.....been there for years now. Thought I saw replacement mirror glass for it in an LMC catalogue. Anybody know how to replace it?      

Used transfer case shifter boot:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/80-86-1980-1986-Ford-Bronco-TRUCK-Transfer-Case-SHIFTER-BOOT-OEM/133587250369?hash=item1f1a6bacc1:g:woYAAOSwzN9fvaVP

Replacement mirror glass [see if you can find what you need]:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Ford+mirror+replacement+glass+F150+1986&_sacat=6030&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=6030&_odkw=Ford+mirror+replacement+glass+NOS+1986

Preaching to the choir but yes, those bushings are a pain. Burnt a couple out before I started just slicing pieces off with a razor blade until it all came apart.
Summit: ATP-FO405. I replaced all of them on my auto 4wd with these.

In reference to the bushing/sleeves: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-TRANSFER-CASE-SHIFT-LEVER-BUSHING-BRONCO-II-EXPLORER-F-SERIES-RANGER/282628725787?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

That's the seller I bought mine from and it actually came with new sleeves but not sure if that was just luck or not.
The bushing itself likely doesn't need replaced though. I only did mine because I was powdercoating the lever.

I think Andre is just saying to not forget to put them back in when you reassemble but I could be wrong on that. My sleeves didn't look terribly worn although one was cracked.

John, after getting all the old mirror out (I use a gasket scraper as it keeps my hands farther away than a putty knife) I scuff up the inside back to fresh plastic and use sensor safe RTV instead of the double-sided foam tape.

You don't want to use acetoxy cure, the stuff that smells like vinegar, because over time it can eat at the silvering on the back of the mirror.

Blue tape it in place for 24 hours and you should be good to go.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

John, after getting all the old mirror out (I use a gasket scraper as it keeps my hands farther away than a putty knife) I scuff up the inside back to fresh plastic and use sensor safe RTV instead of the double-sided foam tape.

You don't want to use acetoxy cure, the stuff that smells like vinegar, because over time it can eat at the silvering on the back of the mirror.

Blue tape it in place for 24 hours and you should be good to go.

Jim, thanks for the response regarding the mirror. Assuming I have to break the old mirror to get it out then? I've not looked at it close enough to really assess how it comes apart.  

You can try to gently pry it off, or take a heat gun to the glass while prying.
But usually I'm trying to replace one that is already broken.

If it's a beater truck you can glue the new mirror over the old, but yours is too nice for that.

Thanks Jim!

David, thanks for always being on the look out for parts for us.