3G Alternator Wiring

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Re: 3G Alternator Wiring

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
Right
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: 3G Alternator Wiring

FormerBigDaddy
In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
I’m confused. You say nothing on connector 610 is needed but Gary said earlier that the expectation is that the connector stays and the large yellow wire is needed and is the main power source of the cab.

No, there is nothing on the 3g conversion page regarding connector 610 or what to do with the large yellow wire, red wire, or yellow green wire.
1984 F350 460 Auto
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Re: 3G Alternator Wiring

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
Gary suggested that the large yellow wire (not the bk/or shunt wire spliced to it) should be protected by a 14Ga. fusible link, and that should connect to either the hot lug of the starter relay, or the cab side of the Megafuse.

The only other wire you need is the lt gr/r wire that has key on power and needs to go to (I) of the regulator plug.
Gary suggested that you take this from the point where it entered the old regulator plug.

In my truck I unpinned the cab side of connector 610 and made single plugs for those two wires.
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: 3G Alternator Wiring

FormerBigDaddy
Ok we’re getting somewhere. I understand what you mean now.

Here’s a pic of what’s left of my old harness. I assume that is the fuseable link J we are discussing? It has the cut red wire and a yellow wire going to the old regulator plug on there as well as the old black/orange wire.



Should I splice the large yellow wiring we’re talking about back into that black/orange wire and put that ring connector with the fuseable link back on the + side of the solenoid? I assume I can disregard the red and yellow wire?
1984 F350 460 Auto
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Re: 3G Alternator Wiring

Gary Lewis
Administrator
You guys are doing well.    I've been following along, but this is another case where too many cooks spoil the broth.

However, I'll jump in on the last question.  In this case you could splice the yellow wire back into the black/orange wire where it came from.  I don't think the yellow wire is long enough to get to Fuse Link J w/o using the black/orange wire.  And the black/orange wire only has a very small amount of resistance in it so having it there won't hurt anything.

The cleaner way would be to connect the yellow wire directly to Fuse Link J, which is the wire with the red tab.  But, as said, I don't know if there's enough length to do that.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: 3G Alternator Wiring

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
I guess, if you need the length, you can use the shunt wire to make the connection.
I -personally- feel my cab is already marginal for power (and I have a headlamp relay harness!)
I wouldn't want a length of resistive wire in that feed.

 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: 3G Alternator Wiring

FormerBigDaddy
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Thank you guys for the help. Good news is when I cut the big yellow wire I did it right next to the factory splice so I have the whole wire to work with still. My solenoid is mounted fairly close to the 610 connector, so I’ll probably splice and solder straight to the wire with the fuseable link. I should have enough length.

No problem with the bigger yellow wire going to that smaller wire with the fuseable link? I don’t know much about wiring but you don’t usually see larger gauge wire spliced to smaller gauge.

Also is the shunt wire you refer to the black/orange? Still learning lingo.
1984 F350 460 Auto
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Re: 3G Alternator Wiring

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
Yes, the black/orange wire that passes by the two ammeter wires is called the shunt.
It's somewhat undersized, so some of the power going to the truck has to travel through the meter.
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: 3G Alternator Wiring

FormerBigDaddy
Sorry guess I’m asking twice so I only cut once... ha

If I have enough of the bigger yellow wire, which I think I do, I can splice it to the wire going to the fuseable link and lose the entire shunt with the other wires completely... right?
1984 F350 460 Auto
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Re: 3G Alternator Wiring

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Yes, that would be ideal.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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