1986 f150 body swapped onto box dually-- noisy red

So i have a 1986 f150 single cab swapped with the older model (unknown atm) daully box truck fram with a 4.9l with a 4 speed manual. engines solid needs some tlc like usual. yet more getting the body resealed and fixed is my first step, how ever im considering interior swaps and details while its torn down.

so to start this journey im looking to put a 2010 dash in or if able to get my scaling down and enough conversion data for the cab interiors then im install a hand carved wood 2020 dash board in and even see if i can shrink it back, was thinking on a heater core and ac delete, and run a electric or belt driven comperssor and get the ac heater retrofits for race or vintige vehicles and slim dowm whats behind the dash for more speaker options.

Any advice and tips? i am looking at making a short throw shifter so i can utilize the middle console space if i run a two seater, so shit tranfer linkage design and ideas are welcome, i want too keep away from static shift or slap stick if possible and keep the original formation, sequentials are nice yet id rather do padle shift conversion with servos if thats the case.

I've not done this, nor do I know anyone that has.  But Bill/85lebaront2 put a 90's dash in his Bullnose, so I'll see what he has to say.

As far as a 2010 dash, I have no idea if it would fit as the body changed completely 1997-98. I put a 1995-96 dash into Darth, but it also required the steering column and mounting changed along with the brake pedal support. The original 1986 dash is a built up metal stampings and plastic assembly.

1987 up the dash goes out or in as an assembly and is held at the windshield base by 4 screws into plastic receivers that the tabs for do not exist on a 1986 cowl and end brackets. HVAC system didn't change mountings, but casing sizes changed. 1986 with heater only will have no dash air registers nor ducts, with the fresh air vent option, the ducts and registers will be there.

THat is noted for I did notice a difference in the newer styles, i know i can make custom mountings since im having to repair rust and holes in the venting grille and nose of the cab where the wipers were full of debris and rotted out. while there i can mod the fire wall since i took the ac blower and cooler out completely, i intend to only run holes adn puncha t the time when i neeed them, sinc tho retro fit kits or slim lines look apeaaling to save space yet have somethig, as far as the dash goes im looking to get actual measurements( being away from my vehicle doesnt help rn since im out at my moms factory helping, yet i got enough cardboard to play with and can draft my design with reference and scale, i used a picture to get looks and some actuate deptsh since i do know they had a 8 inch screen and a 16 inch by 4 inch steering wheel.
i made a 54 in scale using 1:8th scale reference with a decet matching to start with, how ever i notice that body change does bring in a 62.5 dash lang since most sit at the hip and shouders bringing it to 66' inches,
i am looking just for side to side length to know what i need to scale, im carving the units out of wood so template mmeasurments off apearance or exect help even better as a guide, so i can fit it down to fit my 86. figured be a cool touch, if goes well im able to share my scaleign for you guys to try or make em for yall.

i have no fear of custom mounts i have a welder and can fabricate comfortably i own 3 Harleys, 2 runnin and funtional and fabing the sportys sister, had to make new mounts and refab a 2 to one out the old strech of header from their cross shot duals, sound and behaves nicley.

as far as mmeasurments i need length of stock dash door to door with standard trim
ill be doing the doors too to match dash once i get the dash done to pull better measurments and not get to crazy right now cause i still have to do audio yet want to keep it open for later
and avg dept from ede to wind shield thats all

Nice pic, but why are you stopped in the middle of the street?

I have a complete spare 1995 dash I can measure for you. I also have a spare steering column/parking brake/left end of dash support I can measure for you. The brake pedal support changed twice, once in 1987 when the bricknose body came out and again in 1992 when the aeronose body came out.

The top part of the dash changed from the built up metal frame with plastic screwed to it that had I believe 4 self-tapping screws that the ends and speaker mount attached to. Bottom cross cab piece attached to the ends of the area and also over the steering column.

The inside of the cab changed very little from 1980 through the 1997 HD models, biggest change was the seat belt retractors, 1980-1986 they are at head level in the back upper corners of the cab unless you have a crew cab. On a crew cab, the front outboard belts have the retractor at head level in the "B" pillar (striker for front doors and hinge mount for rear doors). This means any front or rear doors will fit, but bullnose doors will not fit later cabs due to the lack of a recess for the retractor "bulge". Seat mounts for standard seats are the same, bucket and split seats are mounted to a platform that attaches to the seat mounting points.

that is helpful to know so i stand correect from what you said no change much in the interior dimension down to the bare metal changed much wich is helpful so yes ill take that dash max width and length even a good depth. the clutch brake and gas pedals im not worried ill be able to fabricate any new mount or type needed, not to much of a concern since most is cable drawn am thinking on, im making it as analog as possible so i have minimum electronics to dedicate for aux systems like a hydraulic ram system for the bed/-split load on a single ram system so i have equal pressure in each cylinders and sound cause a good tune is always appreciated from any genre. as far as mounts and under frame im of no concern anything adapting wise will be custom fabbed by myself{ i want it pretty roomy under there for a in cab heater ac units they use for racing or 60s models or older with custom ducting so maintenance is less of a pain. and more room}  or out sourced with sufficient data, im looking for rough exterior dimensions to make a solid dash unit, i can make the moving parts out of wood later due to the intricacy of parts to make takes longer live vent directions for now static is ok,they generally so well no matter the angle lol, its more for looks and shock and awe =

Pardon the upside down picture still figuring this site out its definitely full of great stuff
as can see i come bearing a update i with some fruitful work.
so i managed to reach out and get measurements from a old friend; The measurements for an oem of my body year is 65"long x15" deep from the middle, i am accounting to trim once at my truck so i left an inch in the back :) , i have quite the amount of stretch of 4" given my  overall photo reference doesn't account for curvature of the product n a perspective drawing but give a close reference having landed me at a 54" length with a 16 inch console, which translated nicely given my reference pint wat the 8 inch screen used in the stock dash. also know the steering wheel is 16 inches to for the steering wheel ill make too later. wanted. i am building this with a sub frame  structure in some locations. I can carved edge for hinging  in the lower for the glove box as seen above and a utilizing their upholstery layer as a separate piece to access the cluster easier from above rather than below, cause that sucks ripping it apart all the time. so why not, its done on both sides too.
i did also change a few angles, cause a good engineer knows why... paperwork sucks and originality is a added bonus on flare and look.

as for if i want to do a solid carve or do layered panels and glue a bit i haven't quite decided might do panels so i can utilize 2x8 or tens and keep it lil beefy so she can be sure to handle hard jars or off roading in the future.

Id like to end this with a question for the engine and also the alt. i know i can a new alternator, as seen in the forums you guys have taken most the guess work out on that, im looking to know if theres a good wiring harness that provides good elecrtic gauges, im not worried about adding all the sensors to see these things(halls effect for speed, volt meter, temp sensor coolant temp and trans, rmp, knock, air to feul ratioes ect.) how ever i just want sensor feed back and reading, since im have to have it carbed with a turbo, and no electrical systems for engine managment, ill even be making the distributor points so i have a pure mechanical beast i can tune based of my readings from the sensors to match things myself it will not be able to tune. ill even canablise the stock one to ad the systems in if neeed mainly can be done as a stand alone yet utilizing one the display units on a newer system wouldnt be bad idea either just what to keep and bypass to keep it happy and quite.

update with the dash made alot of progress and made some changes for sectional units so each side the dash is complete independent for transport, and maintenance sake. This is just the rough in still so i have quite the mount of sanding and some carving left to do, did chisel out the media console and started with that, am gonna carve the vents later cause in have to remove some material from the back with a router at home, i could us a drill press anc carve it to i just cant find any bits the size i need lol.

as far as the truck goes the beds getting its make over soon shortly already have the designs for it ready.
will be pretty sick and decently practical for lifting the motorcycles(both my bikes have lift points and crane straps)n the back and still have room to sit a bench and tools in the side bins; My lift of choice is side rail integrated u-frame hydraulic rammed gin pole design, will take a bit before the cranes fabricated yet the beds getting a shave down some paint have a cover and trim the sides in and  down a bit so  i can use my mirrors normally. and not gave to get wider set offs.

we killed the battery driving it didnt have enough juice to get it started again lol, was great timing honestly.

so lil update on the truck, i have cut down the hideous bed, to a more flatter appeal, i have noticed that the boards between the frame and bed frame are lil rough, and my front side is shifted a inch while the back is square almost. im in need to lift the bed, yet i dont have a winch or anythig just a jack and a engine picker, idk if i can use the engine picker to least float the top. in terms of the boards im looking into suitable replacements any recommendations. i am adding a plate weld from the frame to bolt to existing holes in the chassis to prevent future shifting to a degree.
i m currently getting the firewall repaired and and having to repair the scuttle part of the cab so she no longer leaks. the dash is awaiting prep and support fabrication to attach it to the truck.

is their an easy way to also drop the tank and move it. i wanna add another and balance them out.
lmk on the tips,def been a lot of cutting on the bed.

Probably the easiest way is with the bed off. I don't know if that's an option for you.

Get as much fuel out as you can. Maybe jump out the fuel pump for that...

I haven't gone back through the whole thread, so I don't know exactly your situation, but will offer what little advice I can.  👍