BigBrother-84 Posted January 8, 2023 Author Share Posted January 8, 2023 I'm not Bill, but I had the same experience with a clock and knew what was coming when you started down that path. But I can assure you that the spring in the heater isn't going to jump out at you. It is a bi-metal spring, meaning it has two different metals in it, one on one side of the spring and one on the other. And since those metals have different expansion rates that means that the spring will expand or contract due to temperature. But at a given temp the spring is stable. The best tip I can give you is to ensure that the "hook" at the end of the spring captures the pin of the choke mechanism. I put the heater on the carb with the open side of the hook past the pin and rotate the heater towards the pin to see that the mechanism moves before I secure the heater in place. Okay, I have the old in hands. I assume that some other dummies like me would do it for the first time too, so there is some picture for them (not for my Pro Teachers). 1- This is how it looks when disassembled: 2- Let's say we want to install it back. Help needed: A) When put it back, I assume having to insert the choke pin in the spring end loop. B) Now, does it have to be done with open or closed flap? C) Now it is back at its place, have to turn it clockwise or counterclockwise, and how much tension the spring before tightening the 3-screws ring? D) EDIT: Oh, and I assume I'll have to keep the old metal 3-screws ring on the new carb, otherwise the old 7V choke cap will not be grounded, am I right? After this will be done, it will be time to talk about fine tuning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted January 8, 2023 Share Posted January 8, 2023 Okay, I have the old in hands. I assume that some other dummies like me would do it for the first time too, so there is some picture for them (not for my Pro Teachers). 1- This is how it looks when disassembled: 2- Let's say we want to install it back. Help needed: A) When put it back, I assume having to insert the choke pin in the spring end loop. B) Now, does it have to be done with open or closed flap? C) Now it is back at its place, have to turn it clockwise or counterclockwise, and how much tension the spring before tightening the 3-screws ring? D) EDIT: Oh, and I assume I'll have to keep the old metal 3-screws ring on the new carb, otherwise the old 7V choke cap will not be grounded, am I right? After this will be done, it will be time to talk about fine tuning. On the Motorcraft cover you will find a notch. For starting initially set that on the large rib on the choke housing and tighten the clamp ring. Fine tuning is fairly easy, if it seems to come off too fast, turn it toward "rich" (counterclockwise), if it is too slow coming off then go "lean" (clockwise). Do it one, maybe two notches at a time. As far as the retainer, as long as the ring contacts one of the two metal areas on the choke cover, it will be grounded properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 8, 2023 Share Posted January 8, 2023 Okay, I have the old in hands. I assume that some other dummies like me would do it for the first time too, so there is some picture for them (not for my Pro Teachers). 1- This is how it looks when disassembled: 2- Let's say we want to install it back. Help needed: A) When put it back, I assume having to insert the choke pin in the spring end loop. B) Now, does it have to be done with open or closed flap? C) Now it is back at its place, have to turn it clockwise or counterclockwise, and how much tension the spring before tightening the 3-screws ring? D) EDIT: Oh, and I assume I'll have to keep the old metal 3-screws ring on the new carb, otherwise the old 7V choke cap will not be grounded, am I right? After this will be done, it will be time to talk about fine tuning. A) Yes B)You now need to set the choke flap opening: either what the book suggests or what your decades of tuning experience tells you. C) I personally like to start between 2mm/0.080" open to just touching. The vacuum pull-off will crack the plate open once the engine starts. If you find driveability suffers and it comes off too soon you can begin to add tension one line at a time. D) Use the new Holley retaining ring. its not all crudded up and probably a little springier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted January 8, 2023 Author Share Posted January 8, 2023 A) Yes B)You now need to set the choke flap opening: either what the book suggests or what your decades of tuning experience tells you. C) I personally like to start between 2mm/0.080" open to just touching. The vacuum pull-off will crack the plate open once the engine starts. If you find driveability suffers and it comes off too soon you can begin to add tension one line at a time. D) Use the new Holley retaining ring. its not all crudded up and probably a little springier. Gentlemen, many thanks all of you, JOB IS DONE! For posterity and for other newbie dummies like me, here is a summary of what I've done: 1- Fully cleaned the old 7V cap and its ring. For comparison, there is also the new 12V one and its ring: 2- This is when I took off the new 12V cap and installed the old 7V one. For the newbies: - Simply insert the spring loop on the choke pin while the choke flap is opened. - Than turn about 90º conterclockwise, the choke flap will close. I stopped turning when the cap notch was centred in the adjustment scale. 3- I decided to keep the old retaining ring. I trust it better for grounding purpose. If you do so, don't make the same mistake I did... Take off the ground wire before installing the old metal ring, or you'll not be able to do so. 4- THAN, install the old metal ring. 5- I had to make a new insulation for the old wire, the original rubber was completely gone. Did it with multiple heat shrink tubing: 6- Et Voilà! The truck started very well, the closed flap began to open after couple of minutes (max 20ºF here today), Big Bro seamed happy. Again, many thanks to all pros for their patience explaining me the way it works! I have some other questions about the carb choke flap itself, I'll start a new thread about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 8, 2023 Share Posted January 8, 2023 Gentlemen, many thanks all of you, JOB IS DONE! For posterity and for other newbie dummies like me, here is a summary of what I've done: 1- Fully cleaned the old 7V cap and its ring. For comparison, there is also the new 12V one and its ring: 2- This is when I took off the new 12V cap and installed the old 7V one. For the newbies: - Simply insert the spring loop on the choke pin while the choke flap is opened. - Than turn about 90º conterclockwise, the choke flap will close. I stopped turning when the cap notch was centred in the adjustment scale. 3- I decided to keep the old retaining ring. I trust it better for grounding purpose. If you do so, don't make the same mistake I did... Take off the ground wire before installing the old metal ring, or you'll not be able to do so. 4- THAN, install the old metal ring. 5- I had to make a new insulation for the old wire, the original rubber was completely gone. Did it with multiple heat shrink tubing: 6- Et Voilà! The truck started very well, the closed flap began to open after couple of minutes (max 20ºF here today), Big Bro seamed happy. Again, many thanks to all pros for their patience explaining me the way it works! I have some other questions about the carb choke flap itself, I'll start a new thread about it. Excellent! Well done, Jeff! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 8, 2023 Share Posted January 8, 2023 Gentlemen, many thanks all of you, JOB IS DONE! For posterity and for other newbie dummies like me, here is a summary of what I've done: 1- Fully cleaned the old 7V cap and its ring. For comparison, there is also the new 12V one and its ring: 2- This is when I took off the new 12V cap and installed the old 7V one. For the newbies: - Simply insert the spring loop on the choke pin while the choke flap is opened. - Than turn about 90º conterclockwise, the choke flap will close. I stopped turning when the cap notch was centred in the adjustment scale. 3- I decided to keep the old retaining ring. I trust it better for grounding purpose. If you do so, don't make the same mistake I did... Take off the ground wire before installing the old metal ring, or you'll not be able to do so. 4- THAN, install the old metal ring. 5- I had to make a new insulation for the old wire, the original rubber was completely gone. Did it with multiple heat shrink tubing: 6- Et Voilà! The truck started very well, the closed flap began to open after couple of minutes (max 20ºF here today), Big Bro seamed happy. Again, many thanks to all pros for their patience explaining me the way it works! I have some other questions about the carb choke flap itself, I'll start a new thread about it. Congratulations Jeff! I'm glad to hear the 7V choke coil is working for you too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted January 9, 2023 Share Posted January 9, 2023 Gentlemen, many thanks all of you, JOB IS DONE! For posterity and for other newbie dummies like me, here is a summary of what I've done: 1- Fully cleaned the old 7V cap and its ring. For comparison, there is also the new 12V one and its ring: 2- This is when I took off the new 12V cap and installed the old 7V one. For the newbies: - Simply insert the spring loop on the choke pin while the choke flap is opened. - Than turn about 90º conterclockwise, the choke flap will close. I stopped turning when the cap notch was centred in the adjustment scale. 3- I decided to keep the old retaining ring. I trust it better for grounding purpose. If you do so, don't make the same mistake I did... Take off the ground wire before installing the old metal ring, or you'll not be able to do so. 4- THAN, install the old metal ring. 5- I had to make a new insulation for the old wire, the original rubber was completely gone. Did it with multiple heat shrink tubing: 6- Et Voilà! The truck started very well, the closed flap began to open after couple of minutes (max 20ºF here today), Big Bro seamed happy. Again, many thanks to all pros for their patience explaining me the way it works! I have some other questions about the carb choke flap itself, I'll start a new thread about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted January 25, 2023 Author Share Posted January 25, 2023 My truck has a mechanical fuel pump so it takes a lot of cranking if I let it sit too long. Sometimes (if I know it's been a week) I resort to using a syringe to fill the bowls through the primary vent tube sticking up in the choke horn. This saves wear and tear on my starter and battery. «pumping» an empty bowl may give you something to do while the carburetor fills but I doubt it really accomplishes anything. Jim (and others), I posted a movie on YouTube: https://youtu.be/yEoUzQ9IO5s Was cold (really) this morning (-6ºF / -21ºC), so I decided to make a "hard" test. No block heater, no battery heater. Just the battery maintainer was plugged. Usually during winter, I plug the block heater overnight before using Big Bro. And when very cold, I add the battery heating blanket. But I wanted this morning test to be very difficult. Remember that Big Bro starts one or two times a month. As you'll see in the movie: - Big Bro needs its carb bowl to fill. - The colder is the weather, the more I need to pump before getting a first spark. Much easier in summer. - If I do not pump the pedal (letting the mechanical pump to do its job), it gets much longer to get the fist spark. - I stop pumping at the second I feel the engine wants to start. I am wondering how I could fill the carb bowls without pumping. Jim, you mentioned the use of a syringe. Where do you inject the fuel? Possible to have a pict about this method? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted January 25, 2023 Share Posted January 25, 2023 My truck has a mechanical fuel pump so it takes a lot of cranking if I let it sit too long. Sometimes (if I know it's been a week) I resort to using a syringe to fill the bowls through the primary vent tube sticking up in the choke horn. This saves wear and tear on my starter and battery. «pumping» an empty bowl may give you something to do while the carburetor fills but I doubt it really accomplishes anything. Jim (and others), I posted a movie on YouTube: https://youtu.be/yEoUzQ9IO5s Was cold (really) this morning (-6ºF / -21ºC), so I decided to make a "hard" test. No block heater, no battery heater. Just the battery maintainer was plugged. Usually during winter, I plug the block heater overnight before using Big Bro. And when very cold, I add the battery heating blanket. But I wanted this morning test to be very difficult. Remember that Big Bro starts one or two times a month. As you'll see in the movie: - Big Bro needs its carb bowl to fill. - The colder is the weather, the more I need to pump before getting a first spark. Much easier in summer. - If I do not pump the pedal (letting the mechanical pump to do its job), it gets much longer to get the fist spark. - I stop pumping at the second I feel the engine wants to start. I am wondering how I could fill the carb bowls without pumping. Jim, you mentioned the use of a syringe. Where do you inject the fuel? Possible to have a pict about this method? Thanks! I think, considering that it’s a mechanical fuel pump, carburetor, a little cold out () and hasn’t started for a week, that it is great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted January 25, 2023 Share Posted January 25, 2023 My truck has a mechanical fuel pump so it takes a lot of cranking if I let it sit too long. Sometimes (if I know it's been a week) I resort to using a syringe to fill the bowls through the primary vent tube sticking up in the choke horn. This saves wear and tear on my starter and battery. «pumping» an empty bowl may give you something to do while the carburetor fills but I doubt it really accomplishes anything. Jim (and others), I posted a movie on YouTube: https://youtu.be/yEoUzQ9IO5s Was cold (really) this morning (-6ºF / -21ºC), so I decided to make a "hard" test. No block heater, no battery heater. Just the battery maintainer was plugged. Usually during winter, I plug the block heater overnight before using Big Bro. And when very cold, I add the battery heating blanket. But I wanted this morning test to be very difficult. Remember that Big Bro starts one or two times a month. As you'll see in the movie: - Big Bro needs its carb bowl to fill. - The colder is the weather, the more I need to pump before getting a first spark. Much easier in summer. - If I do not pump the pedal (letting the mechanical pump to do its job), it gets much longer to get the fist spark. - I stop pumping at the second I feel the engine wants to start. I am wondering how I could fill the carb bowls without pumping. Jim, you mentioned the use of a syringe. Where do you inject the fuel? Possible to have a pict about this method? Thanks! not sure that you I am understanding the pump. accelerator pump or fuel pump? the fuel pump has no connection to the gas pedal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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