Coco Posted January 5, 2023 Share Posted January 5, 2023 (Continuing my previous post that I accidentally misplaced) I have a 1984 F-250, 4speed manual, with the 6.9/420 IDI diesel engine. She's currently 2wd, and in the process of restoring her from her 5 year resting place, my buddy and I have begun to think about modifications to her to make her cooler and nicer than she already is. The list of modifications are as follows: - 3" Body lift - 2" Suspension lift - 36/14.5R16 All Terrain tires (to replace the 30's on her currently) - 2" wheel spacers on all wheels - Steering stabilizer to help the steering - Roof markers over the cab - Cab visor - Grab bars behind the cab doors (she is a single cab) - Smoke stack(s) (It might just be one, it might be two, it depends on the cost of it all) - Conversion to 4x4 (This is one I was asking questions about. I had been told by a couple different mechanics that the XLT's came with everything already in the truck, and you just need a front differential and t-case to make it 4x4. I wasn't quite sure about it, because I've done most my work on 90's models, and after further in-depth research found that I do need an entire front 4x4 system to be in place.) Right now I am not sure if I'll continue on with converting Autumn to 4x4, just because she is a diesel, she isn't exactly the BEST for off-roading, and like the smoke stacks, it depends on if I can afford it or not. If I can buy a junked bullnose from the local junkyard that has some, maybe I'll go through with it, however my buddy and I have adjusted the lift kits to match a 2wd just in case we don't convert her. Another issue with converting her is that every mechanic I have talked to about it has said something different. And most of my family and almost all my friends are much more experienced mechanics than I. (I tend to buy shitty cars and try to save them before the breakdown on me for good, but so far it hasn't worked lol). Some mechanics like my brother in law said it would be cheaper and easier to just sell the bullnose I have and buy a different truck entirely with 4x4 already on it, others say they've done it and it's super easy and they'd help me with it, so I don't exactly have an accurate vision on whether or not it is a plausible and effective idea, or if it's just something I thought of that I probably shouldn't do unless I win the lottery. If anyone has any other modification ideas, places to get parts cheaper, or knowledge of what I'm planning on doing, advice or your 2 cents would be greatly appreciated! This is my first Bullnose and I really want to be able to finish restoring her when I go back to my home state so I can build her into the absolute badass she is. I've had a couple trucks/a car that I wanted to mod, but never got the chance to before they gave up the ghost, and with something as important as this truck is to me, I want to make sure I'm doing my shit right. Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted January 5, 2023 Share Posted January 5, 2023 anything can be done! its only money! seriously it is an involved process. and yes, you want it right. everyone has a different level of skill and experience. and budget. we just sold a set of f250 axles front and rear 4.10 gear and would have been usable in this conversion. but then you need to have a transfer case, adapter and a transmission compatible for a 4wd. some require one length output shaft for 2wd and a different length for 4wd. at least on autos and manuals may be different. unless it is a very sentimental truck it may be cheaper at least to get a different truck unless you are able to do all of your labor. then if it is a sentimental truck, why change it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted January 5, 2023 Share Posted January 5, 2023 anything can be done! its only money! seriously it is an involved process. and yes, you want it right. everyone has a different level of skill and experience. and budget. we just sold a set of f250 axles front and rear 4.10 gear and would have been usable in this conversion. but then you need to have a transfer case, adapter and a transmission compatible for a 4wd. some require one length output shaft for 2wd and a different length for 4wd. at least on autos and manuals may be different. unless it is a very sentimental truck it may be cheaper at least to get a different truck unless you are able to do all of your labor. then if it is a sentimental truck, why change it? I converted my F350 to 4x4 and let me tell you that almost nothing bolts up. The holes in a 4x2 frame and the holes in a 4x4 frame are different, and so you have to drill all of them. If you're looking for an easy bolt and go swap, it's not going to happen. Sky's Offroad sells a decent number of parts to convert these trucks to 4x4, even using newer solid axles from the Super Duty trucks. Have a look at their website and see what they have. But be forewarned, this is where the cost comes in. I'm running some of their stuff on my truck but it's not the cheapest route by any means. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 5, 2023 Share Posted January 5, 2023 Suspension lifting a. 2wd is not a big deal but if you go to lift a 4wd F-250 you are DEEP in the weeds with leaf spring mounts, frame boxing, drop pivots, pitman arms, shackle reversals (because F-250 springs are reverse arch) and major challenges getting it aligned. If you do decide to go to leaf sprung 4x4 I would suggest going straight to a solid axle from an F350. That will get you about the 2" lift you want. It will be tighter steering, softer sprung and much easier to keep aligned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coco Posted January 5, 2023 Author Share Posted January 5, 2023 Suspension lifting a. 2wd is not a big deal but if you go to lift a 4wd F-250 you are DEEP in the weeds with leaf spring mounts, frame boxing, drop pivots, pitman arms, shackle reversals (because F-250 springs are reverse arch) and major challenges getting it aligned. If you do decide to go to leaf sprung 4x4 I would suggest going straight to a solid axle from an F350. That will get you about the 2" lift you want. It will be tighter steering, softer sprung and much easier to keep aligned. Ahhh, okay. So its seeming like 4x4 conversion isnt gonna do me much good anyway. If I keep it 2wd, then the body lift and suspension lift would still work. Is there anything I can do to tighten the steering anyway? The couple times ive driven the truck the steering has been SUPPPERR loose. I know the power steering pump is fractured and leaky, but I could wiggle the steering wheel 30° ish each side and still go straight. Personally, I prefer tighter steering, it makes me feel more in control of the vehicle, but I also spent months driving Lilly, my 2003 Mazda6, with a 5spd 3.0 in her, and she had VERY tight and responsive steering Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 5, 2023 Share Posted January 5, 2023 Ahhh, okay. So its seeming like 4x4 conversion isnt gonna do me much good anyway. If I keep it 2wd, then the body lift and suspension lift would still work. Is there anything I can do to tighten the steering anyway? The couple times ive driven the truck the steering has been SUPPPERR loose. I know the power steering pump is fractured and leaky, but I could wiggle the steering wheel 30° ish each side and still go straight. Personally, I prefer tighter steering, it makes me feel more in control of the vehicle, but I also spent months driving Lilly, my 2003 Mazda6, with a 5spd 3.0 in her, and she had VERY tight and responsive steering If the steering is sloppy check the slip joint in the steering shaft, the rubber rag joint just above the steering box, and consider upgrading to a Blue Top steering box. If all the front end (drag link, tie rod ends) is tight your problem is probably above the pitman arm. Another member has a thread going about this. I think he is waiting on his steering box and has upgraded to a Borgenson power steering shaft. I cheaped out and welded a 2014 F-150 lower shaft (universals instead of rubber joints) to my old splined fittings. This seems to work well but my truck is never going to track like a shorter, lower vehicle. Which reminds me. I need to check my steering box to see what's weeping. 🧐 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coco Posted January 5, 2023 Author Share Posted January 5, 2023 If the steering is sloppy check the slip joint in the steering shaft, the rubber rag joint just above the steering box, and consider upgrading to a Blue Top steering box. If all the front end (drag link, tie rod ends) is tight your problem is probably above the pitman arm. Another member has a thread going about this. I think he is waiting on his steering box and has upgraded to a Borgenson power steering shaft. I cheaped out and welded a 2014 F-150 lower shaft (universals instead of rubber joints) to my old splined fittings. This seems to work well but my truck is never going to track like a shorter, lower vehicle. Which reminds me. I need to check my steering box to see what's weeping. 🧐 Ahhh okok. I will definitely look into that. I know almost the entire front suspension needs to be rebuilt, because it was leaning on both driver tires flat for 3+ years. It could be something like that, or something with the power steering pump because I know thats an issue I need to resolve. Something I am interested in, is the steering stabilizer, once my buddy and I have the new springs and blocks in place for the lift, would a steering stabilizer tighten steering at all? Im not entirely what its there for, other than helping control vibrating and shaking when driving after modified suspension Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 5, 2023 Share Posted January 5, 2023 Ahhh okok. I will definitely look into that. I know almost the entire front suspension needs to be rebuilt, because it was leaning on both driver tires flat for 3+ years. It could be something like that, or something with the power steering pump because I know thats an issue I need to resolve. Something I am interested in, is the steering stabilizer, once my buddy and I have the new springs and blocks in place for the lift, would a steering stabilizer tighten steering at all? Im not entirely what its there for, other than helping control vibrating and shaking when driving after modified suspension If your front end is worn out you need to fix that first. Starting at the kingpins and working back to the steering box. I'm personally not a fan of steering dampers for street driven vehicles. If you have shuddering or death wobble a damper is just covering it up and making your steering sluggish. Address the problem or get a competent alignment shop to fix the behavior you caused. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coco Posted January 5, 2023 Author Share Posted January 5, 2023 If your front end is worn out you need to fix that first. Starting at the kingpins and working back to the steering box. I'm personally not a fan of steering dampers for street driven vehicles. If you have shuddering or death wobble a damper is just covering it up and making your steering sluggish. Address the problem or get a competent alignment shop to fix the behavior you caused. She does need a new left side kingpin, left inner and outer bushings, a right side outer bushing, and some other things I have written down but cant find right this second. So my steering issue is sounding like its caused from the issues she got from sitting too side heavy for too long, and I might not have to modify the steering column itself. But im not 100% sure yet, I haven't gotten the money to send her back into a mechanic for the rest of her major issues im not experienced enough to handle. I will definitely keep updating as repairs are made, and when modifications are started/finished. (Pictures included) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 5, 2023 Share Posted January 5, 2023 She does need a new left side kingpin, left inner and outer bushings, a right side outer bushing, and some other things I have written down but cant find right this second. So my steering issue is sounding like its caused from the issues she got from sitting too side heavy for too long, and I might not have to modify the steering column itself. But im not 100% sure yet, I haven't gotten the money to send her back into a mechanic for the rest of her major issues im not experienced enough to handle. I will definitely keep updating as repairs are made, and when modifications are started/finished. (Pictures included) I don't think any of your steering issues are caused by sitting crooked while parked. If you intend to farm this out just go to the most reputable alignment shop you can afford. This is what they do, replace front end parts.... A regular mechanic probably doesn't have a good rack or know how to work on medium duty kingpin axles. The steering pump is easy enough. Be sure to borrow a steering pulley puller/install tool when you pick up a new pump. If you try to do it with a regular three jaw you will destroy it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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