Gary Lewis Posted January 21, 2023 Share Posted January 21, 2023 Tomorrow I may pull the '73 Bronco out of "hiding" and ensure fit on both RH and LH, with the thickest part up (for Negative camber adjustment) and then thickest part on bottom for Positive camber adjustment. Verifying slot position for all 4 positions. I say four positions because on the '78 and up Bronco and F-150 they have five studs holding the spindle to the knuckle, 4 studs are 3" apart. the top 2 are 3.5" apart,= staggered. So top RH and top LH are not in the same position, and of course bottom RH and LH are not the same either = 4 positions. I want to get the slots to cover all four....1 shim for what ever you need. Neat design. I'm anxious to see how it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85pig Posted January 21, 2023 Share Posted January 21, 2023 Neat design. I'm anxious to see how it works. Why wouldn't something like that work on the TTB front end? I've torn into the straight axles, but never a TTB (yet), but I'm guessing the spindle area would be similar or the same. Almost seems like a solution like that would be more effective at killing the negative camber thing than the degreed ball joints. Am I way off here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reamer Posted January 21, 2023 Author Share Posted January 21, 2023 Why wouldn't something like that work on the TTB front end? I've torn into the straight axles, but never a TTB (yet), but I'm guessing the spindle area would be similar or the same. Almost seems like a solution like that would be more effective at killing the negative camber thing than the degreed ball joints. Am I way off here? not at all! this may take out the TTB "sag" for ya. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted January 22, 2023 Share Posted January 22, 2023 not at all! this may take out the TTB "sag" for ya. I'm curious about how much is too much with a shim? by tilting the spindle in the knuckle you are still leaving all brake hardware riding the knuckle so at some point you are trading one problem for another. that is not the same thing when adjusting with ball joints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reamer Posted January 22, 2023 Author Share Posted January 22, 2023 I'm curious about how much is too much with a shim? by tilting the spindle in the knuckle you are still leaving all brake hardware riding the knuckle so at some point you are trading one problem for another. that is not the same thing when adjusting with ball joints. 1 degree, bending-stressing a flexible brake line? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 22, 2023 Share Posted January 22, 2023 1 degree, bending-stressing a flexible brake line? You're moving the spindle (plane of the rotor) The caliper bolts to the knuckle. I'm not going to do the math but my truck has 12" rotors = 6" at the edge of the pads. I think this is what he's asking.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reamer Posted January 22, 2023 Author Share Posted January 22, 2023 You're moving the spindle (plane of the rotor) The caliper bolts to the knuckle. I'm not going to do the math but my truck has 12" rotors = 6" at the edge of the pads. I think this is what he's asking.... I'm still not sure of the concern, this was "the standard" way to get correct camber in the 70's 80's they are not available anymore...but I see your point, Pads may show a 1 degree shift from parallel (if they were ever parallel from the factory machining) when wearing down, on my 86 Flareside and the Bronco the pads never wore evenly top-to-bottom, suggesting this may actually get them to wear evenly.... but pad life would be the same and pads are way cheaper than worn-edge tires and funky tracking down the road.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted January 22, 2023 Share Posted January 22, 2023 I'm still not sure of the concern, this was "the standard" way to get correct camber in the 70's 80's they are not available anymore...but I see your point, Pads may show a 1 degree shift from parallel (if they were ever parallel from the factory machining) when wearing down, on my 86 Flareside and the Bronco the pads never wore evenly top-to-bottom, suggesting this may actually get them to wear evenly.... but pad life would be the same and pads are way cheaper than worn-edge tires and funky tracking down the road.... this is exactly the point I was asking about. and you make the point even more important by wondering if they were true from the factory. maybe bringing them into alignment yet maybe making them worse. I do this type of study often so I'm not being critical, just very interested in the engineering being done. always willing to learn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reamer Posted January 22, 2023 Author Share Posted January 22, 2023 this is exactly the point I was asking about. and you make the point even more important by wondering if they were true from the factory. maybe bringing them into alignment yet maybe making them worse. I do this type of study often so I'm not being critical, just very interested in the engineering being done. always willing to learn. no problem there. its will be a good observation, ... If the top of the pads wear more right now, and you add Positive caster to correct the tire, you will also correct pad alignment:nabble_smiley_good: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted January 22, 2023 Share Posted January 22, 2023 no problem there. its will be a good observation, ... If the top of the pads wear more right now, and you add Positive caster to correct the tire, you will also correct pad alignment:nabble_smiley_good: and that would be a good example of possibly finding a bent or poorly milled/installed spindle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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