Starting diagnosis help required

[BigBrother-84]

Hi Gentlemen!

Hoping everybody has nice Holiday!

Big Bro refuse to start

Yesterday I wanted to take him out for the Christmas picture, but had a lot of difficulty to start.

After successfully started, I had this nice idea of stopping the engine to "see" if Big Bro will start easier... Total fail, nothing goes.

Battery fully charged but same behavior as if the battery was too low. Low lights, one unique "clonk" at key startup, ceiling light yellowing. I feel that insisting to start burned something...

I am planning to test the relay, but not sure about this jumping test:

I understand I have to disconnect the push-on wire, but not clear what to jump.

Anyone can clarify this for me?

Thanks!

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jeff, they are suggesting to jump the S terminal to the relay stud with the battery + attached.

You therefore eliminate everything from the fusible link, cab power cable, ignition switch, neutral safety switch and harness back to the fender relay.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

How cold has it been?

Maybe the battery electrolyte is frozen and can't pass the ions it needs to?

If something like the interior light is not glowing brightly it's not down to coagulated grease in the ignition switch.

 

[BigBrother-84]

How cold has it been?

Maybe the battery electrolyte is frozen and can't pass the ions it needs to?

If something like the interior light is not glowing brightly it's not down to coagulated grease in the ignition switch.

Thanks Jim for the precision!

Not so cold. Night 5°F, day 20°F.

Last winter I had to change the battery after a whole week under -22°F, the old battery was frozen.

The battery looks very good, testing the charge indicates complete full charge.

I'll continue to investigate, although a new relay isn't really expansive. Won't spend a lot of time before trying a new one...

I just hope this is not a fusible link or other "no evidence" issue.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks Jim for the precision!

Not so cold. Night 5°F, day 20°F.

Last winter I had to change the battery after a whole week under -22°F, the old battery was frozen.

The battery looks very good, testing the charge indicates complete full charge.

I'll continue to investigate, although a new relay isn't really expansive. Won't spend a lot of time before trying a new one...

I just hope this is not a fusible link or other "no evidence" issue.

Extended cranking won't cause a fusible link any harm.

The current needed to "pull in" close the relay isn't very much.

Not sure if you have the means to load test your battery but that is what I would suggest.

A meter will read surface charge. It doesn't have any way to show how many cold cranking amps can be delivered.

[Gsmblue]

Extended cranking won't cause a fusible link any harm.

The current needed to "pull in" close the relay isn't very much.

Not sure if you have the means to load test your battery but that is what I would suggest.

A meter will read surface charge. It doesn't have any way to show how many cold cranking amps can be delivered.

If you are sure your battery is good I would check your battery terminals and cables from the battery.

Check voltage drop from the battery terminals to the next stop along the cable.

[BigBrother-84]

If you are sure your battery is good I would check your battery terminals and cables from the battery.

Check voltage drop from the battery terminals to the next stop along the cable.

Guys, many thanks for your help!

We presently have a gathering of family, cousins, children & spouses, couple of kids (and lot of dogs 🙄) at home.

🥳🎉

They arrived Saturday and everybody leaves tomorrow (Tuesday), so going to have time for Big Brother.

I plan to:

1- Recheck and tighten every contact (battery, grounds, starter, relay).

2- Verify the voltage at battery, and between battery and relay poles.

3- Unplug the S wire and jump the relay +|- poles, and therefore see if the starter and battery work well.

4- «Light continuity tester» between battery negative pole and S wire, to check if the starting wires/switch work well.

5- If required, change the relay (but all car parts are closed here for couple of days).

I will update you on my progress!

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Guys, many thanks for your help!

We presently have a gathering of family, cousins, children & spouses, couple of kids (and lot of dogs 🙄) at home.

🥳🎉

They arrived Saturday and everybody leaves tomorrow (Tuesday), so going to have time for Big Brother.

I plan to:

1- Recheck and tighten every contact (battery, grounds, starter, relay).

2- Verify the voltage at battery, and between battery and relay poles.

3- Unplug the S wire and jump the relay +|- poles, and therefore see if the starter and battery work well.

4- «Light continuity tester» between battery negative pole and S wire, to check if the starting wires/switch work well.

5- If required, change the relay (but all car parts are closed here for couple of days).

I will update you on my progress!

While you unplug the S wire, jump + to S terminal with a paperclip or something.

This is what your tutorial is suggesting.

It doesn't seem there is any malfunction of the relay from what you described.

You say the dome light is dim.

That's a single fusible link and the door switch.

If you have these problems the one common denominator is the battery (after checking the ground cable)

I'd still try to load test your battery.

Or maybe just bring it inside to warm up and charge, see if that changes anything.

[BigBrother-84]

While you unplug the S wire, jump + to S terminal with a paperclip or something.

This is what your tutorial is suggesting.

It doesn't seem there is any malfunction of the relay from what you described.

You say the dome light is dim.

That's a single fusible link and the door switch.

If you have these problems the one common denominator is the battery (after checking the ground cable)

I'd still try to load test your battery.

Or maybe just bring it inside to warm up and charge, see if that changes anything.

Jim, yes I plan also to do a battery load test, as you suggested.

And for the paper clip, I didn't see that trick during my search. What tutorial are you talking about?

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim, yes I plan also to do a battery load test, as you suggested.

And for the paper clip, I didn't see that trick during my search. What tutorial are you talking about?

This is step 2 of the image you posted above.

They don't say "use a paperclip" they just say jump this terminal to battery positive.

Jumping over the relay from the battery cable to the starter cable with a big open end wrench or similar will eliminate the relay as a cause, but it doesn't prove much beyond that.

If you try that and don't get a ferocious spark that tries to weld the wrench I'd say your battery is shot, no matter what the charger tells you.