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New member, big problem


ReneH

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No, I have connected an Ohmmeter between the cable lt. Green/green and tan/Red. Both should route directly to the ECU, as far as I know.

I have measured no connection...

scan0030.thumb.jpg.8d718632c7e525c0172020f44f430e99.jpg

This is the diagram from the diagnostic manual for the 1986 trucks, main difference is the color markings, 1985 used dots or hash marks, 1986 went to stripes. No colors are on it though. One problem area I have run into on these is the ground for the entire system is a 1/4" wide male/female pair attached to the battery negative cable clamp bolt. It is a chronic bad connection or is one waiting to happen.

The diagram shows a heated O2 sensor, I have never seen one pre-1987 on a truck, they have always been one wire O2 sensors in the rear of the right exhaust manifold.

Try what I suggested by adding an LED to monitor the coil trigger (it will be on when the module opens the circuit to fire the coil). Coil and injectors should be close to the same time, but injector banks have to alternate.

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This is the diagram from the diagnostic manual for the 1986 trucks, main difference is the color markings, 1985 used dots or hash marks, 1986 went to stripes. No colors are on it though. One problem area I have run into on these is the ground for the entire system is a 1/4" wide male/female pair attached to the battery negative cable clamp bolt. It is a chronic bad connection or is one waiting to happen.

The diagram shows a heated O2 sensor, I have never seen one pre-1987 on a truck, they have always been one wire O2 sensors in the rear of the right exhaust manifold.

Try what I suggested by adding an LED to monitor the coil trigger (it will be on when the module opens the circuit to fire the coil). Coil and injectors should be close to the same time, but injector banks have to alternate.

Hey Bill, thanks for that schematic. That's a very good one to see what's all working together to run the EFI.

As I'm currently already in the south of Lyon, France, on my way to Toulon to get the ferry on Corse, I'm only able to do things theoretical...or I have to give the advice to my mother at home to check the things we elaborate...:nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig:

I will check the harness, but I think it makes also sense to get a replacement for the HAL or the whole distributor. As you know, I can't go to a hardware store and buy the spare parts...they are very rare and expensive here in Germany...so rockauto.com is my store...

What do you think? Only the HAL sensor or the whole distributor? Any recommendations for a part I can buy at rockauto.com?

Oh also if I am late...merry Christmas 🎄 to all!!!

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Hey Bill, thanks for that schematic. That's a very good one to see what's all working together to run the EFI.

As I'm currently already in the south of Lyon, France, on my way to Toulon to get the ferry on Corse, I'm only able to do things theoretical...or I have to give the advice to my mother at home to check the things we elaborate...:nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig:

I will check the harness, but I think it makes also sense to get a replacement for the HAL or the whole distributor. As you know, I can't go to a hardware store and buy the spare parts...they are very rare and expensive here in Germany...so rockauto.com is my store...

What do you think? Only the HAL sensor or the whole distributor? Any recommendations for a part I can buy at rockauto.com?

Oh also if I am late...merry Christmas 🎄 to all!!!

Rene, enjoy your Christmas! The truck can wait. The Hall Effect Pickup (commonly called an HEP) is a pretty common item, the issue is the replacement, it requires the distributor be disassembled to get it out.

I would do more diagnostic testing first as I suspect a wiring issue as that was very common on these.

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Rene, enjoy your Christmas! The truck can wait. The Hall Effect Pickup (commonly called an HEP) is a pretty common item, the issue is the replacement, it requires the distributor be disassembled to get it out.

I would do more diagnostic testing first as I suspect a wiring issue as that was very common on these.

Thanks, Bill.

As I have said, I will invest in a new distributor, to be sure I have everything on possible spare parts I need when I start working on the truck as I am back. So maybe you or someone an give me a recommendation...Herr is what I can get:

SKP 1

SKP 2

Cardone 1

Cardone 2

I have found nothing that seems to fit on summitracing.com...

Maybe it makes sense to add a single HEP for restorate my original distributor for my spare part stock...

SMP

As I've said, it's more economical for me to buy possible defective parts in advance to be sure I can work constantly on the truck next year.

The thing is, that I have sold my wife's car with a good profit, but now she also needs a car to get to work. She won't use my CJ7, cause the steering gearbox needs to be changed...it's a bit too sensitive...so that's why I still have a matter of time to get the Bronco ready...:nabble_smiley_unhappy:

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Thanks, Bill.

As I have said, I will invest in a new distributor, to be sure I have everything on possible spare parts I need when I start working on the truck as I am back. So maybe you or someone an give me a recommendation...Herr is what I can get:

SKP 1

SKP 2

Cardone 1

Cardone 2

I have found nothing that seems to fit on summitracing.com...

Maybe it makes sense to add a single HEP for restorate my original distributor for my spare part stock...

SMP

As I've said, it's more economical for me to buy possible defective parts in advance to be sure I can work constantly on the truck next year.

The thing is, that I have sold my wife's car with a good profit, but now she also needs a car to get to work. She won't use my CJ7, cause the steering gearbox needs to be changed...it's a bit too sensitive...so that's why I still have a matter of time to get the Bronco ready...:nabble_smiley_unhappy:

Hi!

Does anyone have a recommendation for me? I still don't understand what difference a cast iron or steel gear makes...are there any advantages from one to another?

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Hi!

Does anyone have a recommendation for me? I still don't understand what difference a cast iron or steel gear makes...are there any advantages from one to another?

It depends on your cam material.

If your truck has a stock flat tappet cam you use an iron gear.

If it has a hardened aftermarket cam or factory roller cam you use a hardened steel gear.

 

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It depends on your cam material.

If your truck has a stock flat tappet cam you use an iron gear.

If it has a hardened aftermarket cam or factory roller cam you use a hardened steel gear.

Ok...thanks!

I have the 351W factory cam in my 302/347 stroker. So I will buy the cast iron version.

Any recommendations for SKP or Cardone?

Or offers Summit something "better", what I haven't found already?

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Ok...thanks!

I have the 351W factory cam in my 302/347 stroker. So I will buy the cast iron version.

Any recommendations for SKP or Cardone?

Or offers Summit something "better", what I haven't found already?

you did not say what type of factory cam. if it is a factory roller then it will need the steel cam gear

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you did not say what type of factory cam. if it is a factory roller then it will need the steel cam gear

Ok...I thought I did...I have a flat tapped cam, no roller...

I already have decided to buy the one from Cardone...I think it will make no great difference to SKP...

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