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1980 F150 Shortbox 4x4


gtanns

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Gtanns - Excellent progress! Love it. How long did all that take?

As for painting in the living room, I could tell you aren't married. :nabble_smiley_wink:

On the fuel tank situation, I have a 38 gallon Bronco tank that'll go in the rear of Big Blue, and the 19 gallon mid-ship tank will stay. And I'm going to use the later Fuel Delivery Modules like Steve83 mentioned. Just have to work out the resistance change from the later senders to match our gauges, and I'm good to go.

Thanks Gary!

For the interior pieces.., I washed em in the bathtub (yes, you're right Gary -- bachelor pad, engaged but not yet married:nabble_smiley_thinking:) with a bucket of dish detergent, then let em dry, then scraped any flaked off paint (I painted these the first time, 4 years ago), sanded with 600 grit, and washed them all again but instead of detergent i used Por15 CleanerDegreaser 5:1 with water. Then I sprayed with Dupli-Color Adhesion promoter, then sprayed DupliColor Vinyl & Fabric within 10 mins, for maybe 3 or 4 coats.

Maybe 8 hours into it now, just for cleaning everything, and spraying 1/3 of everything.

As long as you spend most of your time prepping - and applying paint patiently in light coats - this Dupli-Color Vinyl & Fabric works really well. It'll cover anything with enough coats. I bought new black armrests from LMC, and they look now like they came factory red.

4 years ago the first time around I used Rustoleum flat matte clear non-yellowing as a final coat, but it turned the colour kind of pinkish..

3M now actually has a self-healing clear vinyl wrap, that heals itself when it scratches (It's 2019 guys) I really want to see if this can be applied to the interior pieces to protect it from key scratches, nicks, etc. but not sure if it will adhere due to the textured nature of the interior pieces.

Some touched up pieces and what was previously a black armrest.

peices.png.20dddd7602346cd80e06071ed59f34c5.png

One of the back panel things where I didn't prep it well enough 4 years ago and the paint chipped over time

back_panel.png.4d729e4dac9d9a0c7d4fd59a2cf803bb.png

Same thing on the doors (where I didn't re-paint, i'm re-gluing black 4 way stretch snowmobile vinyl)

door.png.0d28366a63f19ee3735b45d1dce5e4b9.png

 

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Thanks Gary!

For the interior pieces.., I washed em in the bathtub (yes, you're right Gary -- bachelor pad, engaged but not yet married:nabble_smiley_thinking:) with a bucket of dish detergent, then let em dry, then scraped any flaked off paint (I painted these the first time, 4 years ago), sanded with 600 grit, and washed them all again but instead of detergent i used Por15 CleanerDegreaser 5:1 with water. Then I sprayed with Dupli-Color Adhesion promoter, then sprayed DupliColor Vinyl & Fabric within 10 mins, for maybe 3 or 4 coats.

Maybe 8 hours into it now, just for cleaning everything, and spraying 1/3 of everything.

As long as you spend most of your time prepping - and applying paint patiently in light coats - this Dupli-Color Vinyl & Fabric works really well. It'll cover anything with enough coats. I bought new black armrests from LMC, and they look now like they came factory red.

4 years ago the first time around I used Rustoleum flat matte clear non-yellowing as a final coat, but it turned the colour kind of pinkish..

3M now actually has a self-healing clear vinyl wrap, that heals itself when it scratches (It's 2019 guys) I really want to see if this can be applied to the interior pieces to protect it from key scratches, nicks, etc. but not sure if it will adhere due to the textured nature of the interior pieces.

Some touched up pieces and what was previously a black armrest.

One of the back panel things where I didn't prep it well enough 4 years ago and the paint chipped over time

Same thing on the doors (where I didn't re-paint, i'm re-gluing black 4 way stretch snowmobile vinyl)

Yes, the prep is the key on the panels. They have to be super clean, and you have to use the adhesion promoter and apply the first coat of paint soon thereafter.

As for the price of gas, my 2015 F150 gets about 18 MPG and my wife's 2014 GLK diesel gets 35 MPG. We are planning a road trip and with the price of gas vs diesel the pickup is becoming an option. :nabble_anim_confused:

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bodywork2.png

Hey gtanns,

Are you still running the 31x10.50/15 tires here?

Yes, that is my tire size BF Goodrich all terrain...not a fan of 'all-seasons', but I must say these are awesome tires for what they are.

Rims are 8.5" wide. Bought the 10" wide originally on my bad measurement . Tires would have stretched, barely, but I didn't want that

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...a safety cradle under the driveshaft in case if the front U-joint blew out...
I've blown a few, but never the front. The only time the front of my d'shaft has dropped loose, the casting broke - not the u-joint.

https://supermotors.net/getfile/1047362/thumbnail/dshaftjbg3d1.jpg

Driveshaft loops are common, easy, & affordable; but I don't think necessary on these trucks.

But the point is: don't run the fuel system "under the d'shaft"; run it under the t-case. Don't connect to the tanks at their sides or bottoms; put the connection at the FRONT, and route the hose (so it's easy to disconnect for service or repairs) FORWARD to the t-case, across, and to the other tank. It can be a short hose, a bent metal tube (or hard nylon), and then another short hose at the other tank.

I just converted Vancouver's price to USD/gallon...... it's $ 4.38/gallon.
https://supermotors.net/getfile/1144755/thumbnail/gasprice.jpg
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Just have to work out the resistance change from the later senders to match our gauges...
It would take an expensive custom module to do the conversion. It's much easier/cheaper/better to either put the '87-04 gauge into the older cluster...

https://supermotors.net/getfile/65156/thumbnail/regeared_30890.jpg

https://supermotors.net/getfile/76023/thumbnail/cluster-front.jpg

https://supermotors.net/getfile/76022/thumbnail/cluster-back.jpg

...or (not as good) put the older sender on the later FDM.

Actually, I've worked through how to convert the later sender to work with the Bullnose gauge, as explained in this thread: Bricknose Sender To Bullnose Guage Interface. Haven't tried it yet, but will do. And the Arduino will be used for many other functions. Plus, they aren't expensive at all.

I've written the code and run it on a simulator, so am pretty sure it'll work. Once I get that nailed down we'll have an easy way to do the conversion.

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...a safety cradle under the driveshaft in case if the front U-joint blew out...
I've blown a few, but never the front. The only time the front of my d'shaft has dropped loose, the casting broke - not the u-joint.

https://supermotors.net/getfile/1047362/thumbnail/dshaftjbg3d1.jpg

Driveshaft loops are common, easy, & affordable; but I don't think necessary on these trucks.

But the point is: don't run the fuel system "under the d'shaft"; run it under the t-case. Don't connect to the tanks at their sides or bottoms; put the connection at the FRONT, and route the hose (so it's easy to disconnect for service or repairs) FORWARD to the t-case, across, and to the other tank. It can be a short hose, a bent metal tube (or hard nylon), and then another short hose at the other tank.

I just converted Vancouver's price to USD/gallon...... it's $ 4.38/gallon.
https://supermotors.net/getfile/1144755/thumbnail/gasprice.jpg

I did blow the front one, on the peak of a massive bridge in Vancouver no less, actually i think it was the casting as well, or at least the casting broke bouncing on the ground for twenty metres.

I see your idea now, and REALLY REALLY LIKE IT. Wow.. Can't wait to get the bed off and take some better measurements.

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...a safety cradle under the driveshaft in case if the front U-joint blew out...
I've blown a few, but never the front. The only time the front of my d'shaft has dropped loose, the casting broke - not the u-joint.

https://supermotors.net/getfile/1047362/thumbnail/dshaftjbg3d1.jpg

Driveshaft loops are common, easy, & affordable; but I don't think necessary on these trucks.

But the point is: don't run the fuel system "under the d'shaft"; run it under the t-case. Don't connect to the tanks at their sides or bottoms; put the connection at the FRONT, and route the hose (so it's easy to disconnect for service or repairs) FORWARD to the t-case, across, and to the other tank. It can be a short hose, a bent metal tube (or hard nylon), and then another short hose at the other tank.

I just converted Vancouver's price to USD/gallon...... it's $ 4.38/gallon.
https://supermotors.net/getfile/1144755/thumbnail/gasprice.jpg

WOOHOO!

So on Saturday morning I picked up the truck all primed with black epoxy sealer. Wow - been a long time coming, needless to say I was all smiles walking into the shop! Cab corners are clean The guy who did (Burnaby Auto Body) is my fiancee's uncle, with a stark sense of humour he says, "Now you can tell Kristi I make you happier than she does." :nabble_smiley_wink:

Rear_in_paint_shop.jpg.b18c464f7988f33fbffbe89d079cab23.jpg

Front_in_paint_shop.jpg.f0cd2b97e01d3e2a07ef40aa7eb24913.jpg

Outside_Burnaby_Auto_Body.jpg.b10d5d5742f0237aa605aee5a52249c2.jpg

Outside.jpg.c62f2adeb009c0a103bfed29ba630ff6.jpg

Anyways - here are some shots -- Saturday I got towed to a shop in Abbotsford that is fabbing up the custom dual tanks as described by Steve83 (Thank you for the input!)

That should be done in about two weeks, then she's getting towed to another shop to drop in the engine and route the exhaust... then the satin black vinyl wrap, and finish up on the interior. Advantage of this primer is if later in life i decide to peel the vinyl, a quick sand and it'll be ready for paint.

He did the cab corners also, great job. Like new. I started on this ol truck back in 2011, with a lot of ambition and dreams, and it feels great to to have it all coming together, can't wait to roast some beemer 3 series.

cab_corner_outside.jpg.b694ebcd7f18862e2da292e086e26f21.jpg

Cab_Corner_insdie.thumb.jpg.0d5542f187ba56c6a1f3aa640c844a1c.jpg

I picked up the billet grille and black bezels from LMC, and to match that and the rest of the truck also scooped up some projector headlights with LED and the 'aftermarket' taillights, which i wouldn't typically be keen on, but I think with the black and chrome look of my truck, they should look the part.

Will be painting the bed in Herculiner and have a roll up tonneau cover.

Light.thumb.jpg.cd1f769911be898737ec34feb35ebfea.jpg

 

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WOOHOO!

So on Saturday morning I picked up the truck all primed with black epoxy sealer. Wow - been a long time coming, needless to say I was all smiles walking into the shop! Cab corners are clean The guy who did (Burnaby Auto Body) is my fiancee's uncle, with a stark sense of humour he says, "Now you can tell Kristi I make you happier than she does." :nabble_smiley_wink:

Anyways - here are some shots -- Saturday I got towed to a shop in Abbotsford that is fabbing up the custom dual tanks as described by Steve83 (Thank you for the input!)

That should be done in about two weeks, then she's getting towed to another shop to drop in the engine and route the exhaust... then the satin black vinyl wrap, and finish up on the interior. Advantage of this primer is if later in life i decide to peel the vinyl, a quick sand and it'll be ready for paint.

He did the cab corners also, great job. Like new. I started on this ol truck back in 2011, with a lot of ambition and dreams, and it feels great to to have it all coming together, can't wait to roast some beemer 3 series.

I picked up the billet grille and black bezels from LMC, and to match that and the rest of the truck also scooped up some projector headlights with LED and the 'aftermarket' taillights, which i wouldn't typically be keen on, but I think with the black and chrome look of my truck, they should look the part.

Will be painting the bed in Herculiner and have a roll up tonneau cover.

Very good! I wish mine looked as good as yours does with only the primer!...lol.

Well done.

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WOOHOO!

So on Saturday morning I picked up the truck all primed with black epoxy sealer. Wow - been a long time coming, needless to say I was all smiles walking into the shop! Cab corners are clean The guy who did (Burnaby Auto Body) is my fiancee's uncle, with a stark sense of humour he says, "Now you can tell Kristi I make you happier than she does." :nabble_smiley_wink:

Anyways - here are some shots -- Saturday I got towed to a shop in Abbotsford that is fabbing up the custom dual tanks as described by Steve83 (Thank you for the input!)

That should be done in about two weeks, then she's getting towed to another shop to drop in the engine and route the exhaust... then the satin black vinyl wrap, and finish up on the interior. Advantage of this primer is if later in life i decide to peel the vinyl, a quick sand and it'll be ready for paint.

He did the cab corners also, great job. Like new. I started on this ol truck back in 2011, with a lot of ambition and dreams, and it feels great to to have it all coming together, can't wait to roast some beemer 3 series.

I picked up the billet grille and black bezels from LMC, and to match that and the rest of the truck also scooped up some projector headlights with LED and the 'aftermarket' taillights, which i wouldn't typically be keen on, but I think with the black and chrome look of my truck, they should look the part.

Will be painting the bed in Herculiner and have a roll up tonneau cover.

It really does look good! Can't wait to see it all come together. :nabble_smiley_good:

The day where your truck is delivered/picked up from the body/paint shop is a really, REALLY special day. I remember it well, and it sure felt good. CONGRAT'S!!!!

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