Electrical distribution and lighting upgrades?

[85lebaront2]

I will hit on the PDC issue, I went and got a later model PDC and mounted it where it sits on the later (1993-97) trucks. I also rewired the entire truck to the later system including the trailer tow wiring, which I made one change on to match what I had done on my 1977 F150.

The PDC contains maxi fuses for all the power circuits, I still have the dual fusible links on the main power wire from the starter relay to the PDC as the wire passes in front of the radiator and can be cut and shorted in a collision. The PDC also contains most of the power relays (EEC power, fuel pump, horn, trailer running lamps) along with several smaller fuses, including one for each side trailer stop and turn.

Here are three with the various items called out, the green maxi fuse goes in the empty spot in the upper left area.

[JimJam300]

Having messed with headlights in the past and trying different types... Projectors throw light really nice but retrofitting sure is a lot of effort. With LEDs condensation problems are more common. I think HIDs are the way to go with projectors. Or you can opt to be a menace to society like me and run LEDs in reflector housings because you can't be bothered to spend more than $40 to see at night (2nd gen Dodge Ram headlights are REALLY bad).

Personally, if my headlights are on, 99.9% of the time the vehicle is also running so I don't worry about drawing amps unless I'm blowing fuses. I have done the switch from sealed beams to halogen H4 and H1 bulbs with Hella housings on an old BMW and I liked them. All I did was upsize the fuses. I am planning on doing the same with my Bronco when I actually get to driving it. Glass lens good. Cheap housing good.

This is just food for thought. I did one of these on my 4Runner a few years back when I was planning on doing a lot of upgrades, and ran all the circuits onto marine terminals, that way I could add switches and any aftermarket stuff very easily. I would much rather switch a load with a relay than a toggle, professionally speaking.

EDIT: Bill's solution looks much nicer as it's all in one spot and can hold bigger fuses.

[ratdude747]

I will hit on the PDC issue, I went and got a later model PDC and mounted it where it sits on the later (1993-97) trucks. I also rewired the entire truck to the later system including the trailer tow wiring, which I made one change on to match what I had done on my 1977 F150.

The PDC contains maxi fuses for all the power circuits, I still have the dual fusible links on the main power wire from the starter relay to the PDC as the wire passes in front of the radiator and can be cut and shorted in a collision. The PDC also contains most of the power relays (EEC power, fuel pump, horn, trailer running lamps) along with several smaller fuses, including one for each side trailer stop and turn.

Here are three with the various items called out, the green maxi fuse goes in the empty spot in the upper left area.

By "fuse block" I was meaning one of these:

My ranger has a mini-ATC version (no fuse break lights) since the truck uses predominantly mini-ATC fuses in the stock fuse boxes. Since bullnoses use ATC fuses, I'd get a block that uses such.

Not moving any stock circuits there... just additional things I've added that currently use inline-fuses.

[CRittaler]

By "fuse block" I was meaning one of these:

My ranger has a mini-ATC version (no fuse break lights) since the truck uses predominantly mini-ATC fuses in the stock fuse boxes. Since bullnoses use ATC fuses, I'd get a block that uses such.

Not moving any stock circuits there... just additional things I've added that currently use inline-fuses.

I built my own power distribution setup in my project thread. You could have a look there if you want.

I used a slightly larger version of that fuse block on my Suzuki Samurai and could take pictures if you want, though it's under snow right now.

I run Morimoto Sealed7's in my Samurai and was looking at Morimoto Sealed5's for the F250, but I keep coming back to the same issue. They don't get hot enough to melt snow which matters here in WA, not sure about where you are. If snow is an issue I would stick with a Halogen retrofit which is what I'm doing.

You can get heated versions of the LEDs but they use more power than the factory bulbs to run the heaters and if a heater fails you have to replace the whole unit. I was looking specifically at the heated version of the Grote design, the 64H81-5.

[ArdWrknTrk]

By "fuse block" I was meaning one of these:

My ranger has a mini-ATC version (no fuse break lights) since the truck uses predominantly mini-ATC fuses in the stock fuse boxes. Since bullnoses use ATC fuses, I'd get a block that uses such.

Not moving any stock circuits there... just additional things I've added that currently use inline-fuses.

I'll grab a pic of my fuse/relay box when the sun comes up.

I bought it specifically because it uses ATC fuses, and it had a 40A relay so I could occupy the space of my old starter relay.

Edit: It's similar (if not the same) as this one on Amazon.

[85lebaront2]

Having messed with headlights in the past and trying different types... Projectors throw light really nice but retrofitting sure is a lot of effort. With LEDs condensation problems are more common. I think HIDs are the way to go with projectors. Or you can opt to be a menace to society like me and run LEDs in reflector housings because you can't be bothered to spend more than $40 to see at night (2nd gen Dodge Ram headlights are REALLY bad).

Personally, if my headlights are on, 99.9% of the time the vehicle is also running so I don't worry about drawing amps unless I'm blowing fuses. I have done the switch from sealed beams to halogen H4 and H1 bulbs with Hella housings on an old BMW and I liked them. All I did was upsize the fuses. I am planning on doing the same with my Bronco when I actually get to driving it. Glass lens good. Cheap housing good.

This is just food for thought. I did one of these on my 4Runner a few years back when I was planning on doing a lot of upgrades, and ran all the circuits onto marine terminals, that way I could add switches and any aftermarket stuff very easily. I would much rather switch a load with a relay than a toggle, professionally speaking.

EDIT: Bill's solution looks much nicer as it's all in one spot and can hold bigger fuses.

tc, mine is the later F-series PDC and fit nicely on the inner fender. Biggest issue, to get the full benefit, the inside harness and ignition switch need changing also.

[BigBrother-84]

-The redundant ground connections to the battery clamp (one is trailer ground, the other is trailer brake controller ground)

Maybe not relevant for you, but when I restored Big Brother, was tired about all these grounds going everywhere under the dash.

Grouped all at a the same clean place.

[ratdude747]

-The redundant ground connections to the battery clamp (one is trailer ground, the other is trailer brake controller ground)

Maybe not relevant for you, but when I restored Big Brother, was tired about all these grounds going everywhere under the dash.

Grouped all at a the same clean place.

The "issue" is more that when I originally redid the battery ground cable, I crimped everything together, which caused issues when I later added a 7 way and a trailer brake controller (didn't trust my chassis grounds that much). Had to tack the cables off the #12 battery lug bolt. Not sustainable for any more additions, hence why I'm adding a ground stud and moving all the connections there.

[ratdude747]

Revisiting this, specfically the headlight part.

First, I found a review video that seems to provide the info I'm looking for:

From that, I can determine:

-Yes, Truck Lites and JW speaker's are among the best performers, as are Morimoto's (which I'd researched when looking to upgrade the knockoff HIDs in my ranger a couple years ago) and a newer offering from Phillips (which is a Truck Lite clone). But JW speaker and Morimoto are very expensive ($300+ a light)... The truck lites and the similar Phillips units are up there ($180 per unit).

-The Grote lights I originally considered are decent units. Not the best, but still better than stock. And of all the "decent" options they're not nearly as ugly IMO (not to mention a bit cheaper at $150 a light)

-United Pacific sells an exact clone (31297) of the Grote (both are indeed made by Maxxima who doesn't sell a Maxxima branded version oddly enough) which is also around the $150 price point. Instead of the Grote logo, they say "LED"... which looks a bit tacky if I'm honest. But I did find them on eBay for $140 shipped so they are technically cheaper.

Still have some figuring out to do. Leaning towards the united pacific or grote option due to cost and asthetics. But I may go for the truck lites if I can find a deal.

I also scored some Grote sealed halogen fog lights today NOS for $6 (Goodwill find)... but I'm not sold on the look, and I'm not drilling my bumper unless I know it's what I want.

[ratdude747]

Revisiting this, specfically the headlight part.

First, I found a review video that seems to provide the info I'm looking for:

From that, I can determine:

-Yes, Truck Lites and JW speaker's are among the best performers, as are Morimoto's (which I'd researched when looking to upgrade the knockoff HIDs in my ranger a couple years ago) and a newer offering from Phillips (which is a Truck Lite clone). But JW speaker and Morimoto are very expensive ($300+ a light)... The truck lites and the similar Phillips units are up there ($180 per unit).

-The Grote lights I originally considered are decent units. Not the best, but still better than stock. And of all the "decent" options they're not nearly as ugly IMO (not to mention a bit cheaper at $150 a light)

-United Pacific sells an exact clone (31297) of the Grote (both are indeed made by Maxxima who doesn't sell a Maxxima branded version oddly enough) which is also around the $150 price point. Instead of the Grote logo, they say "LED"... which looks a bit tacky if I'm honest. But I did find them on eBay for $140 shipped so they are technically cheaper.

Still have some figuring out to do. Leaning towards the united pacific or grote option due to cost and asthetics. But I may go for the truck lites if I can find a deal.

I also scored some Grote sealed halogen fog lights today NOS for $6 (Goodwill find)... but I'm not sold on the look, and I'm not drilling my bumper unless I know it's what I want.

A few things:

Fuse Block: Trying one of these units out:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144794722310

12 circuits plus has grounding built in. I'll also be eliminating the fender mounted 40A breaker for the trailer brake as I can get an ATC sized breaker to use in one of the slots:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/314186838994

Headlights: going with a pair of Phillips Truck-Lite clones. They're on sale right now:

https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Automotive-Lighting-H6054LED-Applications/dp/B08DDFTVYQ