ArdWrknTrk Posted November 22, 2022 Share Posted November 22, 2022 I've unplugged the 2 wiring plugs at the alternator- test light from negative peg to ground wire still glows. I'm hoping to find fuel pump cutoff relays, but the pic sent to me isn't what physically exists under my hood! Tips??Screenshot_20221120_152305.jpg Can you hear the pump running? Or a relay clicking when you reconnect the battery (or connect your test light) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy_Tunes Posted November 24, 2022 Author Share Posted November 24, 2022 Can you hear the pump running? Or a relay clicking when you reconnect the battery (or connect your test light) Yes, touching the new negative cable to the post causes a 1 second buzz/hum at the black wiring cover at the firewall. Priming? No, can't hear fuel pumps running. ---> need a step stool to get high enough to reach down to that cover, hope it pops off easy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 24, 2022 Share Posted November 24, 2022 Yes, touching the new negative cable to the post causes a 1 second buzz/hum at the black wiring cover at the firewall. Priming? No, can't hear fuel pumps running. ---> need a step stool to get high enough to reach down to that cover, hope it pops off easy? (remove a bunch of links that didn't work ) The EEC relay should be getting power at all times through fuse link N on circuit 37 But only be closed by the ignition switch in Start and Run. ........ The pump relay gets triggered by the ESC through ZZ ......... The fuel pump relay is definitely under that cover as pictured on Pg. 107. But the EEC shouldn't be able to activate it with the ignition Off. If it does, that would suggest your ignition switch is mis-wired or has failed hot. 😳 If it is shorted, or the EEC is pulling power through it without the ignition key ON it will kill the battery. (and , the forum insert image tab is not working for me this morning. Edit for clarity.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy_Tunes Posted November 27, 2022 Author Share Posted November 27, 2022 (remove a bunch of links that didn't work ) The EEC relay should be getting power at all times through fuse link N on circuit 37 But only be closed by the ignition switch in Start and Run. ........ The pump relay gets triggered by the ESC through ZZ ......... The fuel pump relay is definitely under that cover as pictured on Pg. 107. But the EEC shouldn't be able to activate it with the ignition Off. If it does, that would suggest your ignition switch is mis-wired or has failed hot. 😳 If it is shorted, or the EEC is pulling power through it without the ignition key ON it will kill the battery. (and , the forum insert image tab is not working for me this morning. Edit for clarity.... That's a lot of info. Now my brain hurts. 😉 I'll go through it again and try to filter it down to what I should be laying my hands on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 27, 2022 Share Posted November 27, 2022 (remove a bunch of links that didn't work ) The EEC relay should be getting power at all times through fuse link N on circuit 37 But only be closed by the ignition switch in Start and Run. ........ The pump relay gets triggered by the ESC through ZZ ......... The fuel pump relay is definitely under that cover as pictured on Pg. 107. But the EEC shouldn't be able to activate it with the ignition Off. If it does, that would suggest your ignition switch is mis-wired or has failed hot. 😳 If it is shorted, or the EEC is pulling power through it without the ignition key ON it will kill the battery. (and , the forum insert image tab is not working for me this morning. Edit for clarity.... I'm going to try and edit the links into images today. Hopefully the forum is working better for me! The EEC relay should be getting power at all times through fuse link N on circuit 37 But only be closed by the ignition switch in Start and Run. (circuit 20) The pump relay gets triggered by the ESC through ZZ The fuel pump relay is definitely under that cover as pictured in 471462... But the EEC shouldn't be able to activate it with the ignition Off. If it does, that would suggest your ignition switch is mis-wired or has failed hot. 😳 If it is shorted, or the EEC is pulling power through it without the ignition key ON it will kill the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 27, 2022 Share Posted November 27, 2022 That's a lot of info. Now my brain hurts. 😉 I'll go through it again and try to filter it down to what I should be laying my hands on. I would check that the EEC power relay (illustration Pg.60) is only getting pulled in by circuit 20 in run & start. The fuel relay shouldn't be pulling closed with the key off, but battery connected. Edit: look at the self test connector on Pg. 62 and be sure that isn't jumpered or otherwise connected and back feeding the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy_Tunes Posted November 28, 2022 Author Share Posted November 28, 2022 I would check that the EEC power relay (illustration Pg.60) is only getting pulled in by circuit 20 in run & start. The fuel relay shouldn't be pulling closed with the key off, but battery connected. Edit: look at the self test connector on Pg. 62 and be sure that isn't jumpered or otherwise connected and back feeding the system. Thanks for that!!! I should have time tomorrow to pull it into the garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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