Big Blue's Seat Platform

[Gary Lewis]

I got Blue, the 2015 F150, loaded with a roll-top desk, bicycle, set of dishes, tote full of memorabilia, etc. And that went so quickly that I had time to do some measuring in the shop. I hope to get back out there tomorrow and actually compile a table of the measurements, but I thought I'd get some of the how-to pics posted.

But first, yes the bed rails I have are one at 1 1/2 x 1 1/2" and one at 1 1/2 x 2". Obviously not a matched set but quite workable. And quite sturdy.

In the first pair of pics I'm showing how I'm measuring the seat angle by using the door sill as a reference. It appears to be parallel to the top of the frame, which is what Ford referenced in the illustration, but the door sill is a lot easier to get to than the top of the frame. Big Blue's door sill is dead on level, and the seat bottom is pitched back 14 degrees, which is obviously a lot more than the 8 degrees the book calls for.

And in the second pair of pics you can see how I measured seat height, again using the door sill as a reference. But unlike a bench seat the captain's chairs have bolsters so you have to subtract the height of the bolster over that of the seat bottom, as shown in the pic on the right.

Before I build the base I'm going to put the bench seat back in Big Blue and measure it as well since I'd like to get the seating position of the captain's chairs as close to that of the bench seat as is possible. Anyway, I wanted to record how I'm measuring so I can get back to it and others can as well.

Ok, more pics of measurement methods awa the measurements themselves:

Console:

• Height: 21 1/4" from door sill

• Rear to storage unit: 3 15/16"

Driver's Seat:

• Leg room to throttle: 38 1/4" to 2" ahead of seat back

• Seat bottom to door sill: 15 1//2" - 1 3/8" = 14 1/8"

• To lock bolt: 7 1/2" from 2" ahead of seat back/bottom joint

• Front axle to back of cab: 76" on Big Blue & 76 7/8" on Dad's. Spec's are 76.81". So it looks like Big Blue's front axle is 7/8" forward of factory.

• Front axle to 2" forward of seat back/bottom joint = 61 3/4" & specs are 61.26". So if you subtract the 7/8" of front axle offset then Big Blue's seat is at 60 7/8", which is 3/8" farther forward than spec.

• Top of window sill to seat bottom: 15 1/2 @ 2" forward of seat back/bottom joint.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ok, more pics of measurement methods awa the measurements themselves:

Console:

• Height: 21 1/4" from door sill

• Rear to storage unit: 3 15/16"

Driver's Seat:

• Leg room to throttle: 38 1/4" to 2" ahead of seat back

• Seat bottom to door sill: 15 1//2" - 1 3/8" = 14 1/8"

• To lock bolt: 7 1/2" from 2" ahead of seat back/bottom joint

• Front axle to back of cab: 76" on Big Blue & 76 7/8" on Dad's. Spec's are 76.81". So it looks like Big Blue's front axle is 7/8" forward of factory.

• Front axle to 2" forward of seat back/bottom joint = 61 3/4" & specs are 61.26". So if you subtract the 7/8" of front axle offset then Big Blue's seat is at 60 7/8", which is 3/8" farther forward than spec.

• Top of window sill to seat bottom: 15 1/2 @ 2" forward of seat back/bottom joint.

I tried to draw my idea full scale, but I can't fit it in frame. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/laughing-25-x-25_orig.gif

[Gary Lewis]

I don't have a mill, but I think I would cut away the box by the depth and thickness of the angle so there are three sides to weld at the front and six at the rear.

If I was feeling extra crafty I would probably angle the front, fold the bottom up and weld it closed so there are no sharp edges.

I can't do much of a sketch with my phone but perhaps I can put my visualization to paper and post a pic.

Enjoy the holidays with your family! 🦃🎄

Jim - The drawing helps but I've not "twigged" yet. (My Brit friends would say I'm as thick as two planks.)

In the statement above, when you talk about "the angle" I think you mean the angle iron, not the 4-8 degree angle I'm trying to create. Right?

But I get lost with the "angle the front, fold the bottom up" bit. Can you help me with that, please?

[ArdWrknTrk]

I don't have a mill, but I think I would cut away the box by the depth and thickness of the angle so there are three sides to weld at the front and six at the rear.

If I was feeling extra crafty I would probably angle the front, fold the bottom up and weld it closed so there are no sharp edges.

I can't do much of a sketch with my phone but perhaps I can put my visualization to paper and post a pic.

Enjoy the holidays with your family! 🦃🎄

Jim - The drawing helps but I've not "twigged" yet. (My Brit friends would say I'm as thick as two planks.)

In the statement above, when you talk about "the angle" I think you mean the angle iron, not the 4-8 degree angle I'm trying to create. Right?

But I get lost with the "angle the front, fold the bottom up" bit. Can you help me with that, please?

Okay, let me get away from the word "angle" and use "stock" for the bedframe...

This section is just in front of the box tube 'spreader/track support' I envisioned

If you look across my drawing(s) you can see a dashed line that represents the upper face of the lower leg of the stock.

In the first photo, the top of the box is cut away so it is flush with the upper face of the horizontal leg of the stock.

Because this tube sticks out below the seat frame, if I got crafty, I would drill a small hole through it horizontally and cut the sides off at an angle so I could fold the lower part up to the frame and weld it shut all around.

This would keep it from snagging my hand, jump starter, gloves or whatever junk I keep stuffed under there.

In the second photo, the bottom of the 11Ga. box is cut away 1 3/8" back so it is flush with the bottom of the 1/8 stock (making the difference 7/8")

You therefore get your 7/8" over 16 1/2" ... or whatever you suggested equals the degrees you needed.

That end butts the vertical leg and gets welded all around.

Sorry I can be very confusing at times! Especially when my best laid plans go out the window. 😆

[Gary Lewis]

Okay, let me get away from the word "angle" and use "stock" for the bedframe...

This section is just in front of the box tube 'spreader/track support' I envisioned

If you look across my drawing(s) you can see a dashed line that represents the upper face of the lower leg of the stock.

In the first photo, the top of the box is cut away so it is flush with the upper face of the horizontal leg of the stock.

Because this tube sticks out below the seat frame, if I got crafty, I would drill a small hole through it horizontally and cut the sides off at an angle so I could fold the lower part up to the frame and weld it shut all around.

This would keep it from snagging my hand, jump starter, gloves or whatever junk I keep stuffed under there.

In the second photo, the bottom of the 11Ga. box is cut away 1 3/8" back so it is flush with the bottom of the 1/8 stock (making the difference 7/8")

You therefore get your 7/8" over 16 1/2" ... or whatever you suggested equals the degrees you needed.

That end butts the vertical leg and gets welded all around.

Sorry I can be very confusing at times! Especially when my best laid plans go out the window. 😆

Thanks for the further explanation. I think I have it. Part of the problem was me forgetting that I need to rock the seat forward and not backward, so I was looking at the drawings the wrong way 'round.

And I think I understand the folding as well, although I'm not sure whether it'll be easier to fold or to weld on a cap. But the point is to create smooth, closed pieces that don't grab or cut things.

I think what I need to do is to create the frame/platform, bolt it in, and then set the seat in and play with spacers behind the rear of the track so I see what angle will work best, meaning bring the top of the seatback forward enough to allow the seat to go rearward as far as is possible.

Here's my previous statement:

But the seatback is 30" tall and tilting it forward 8 degrees would move the top of the seatback forward 4.2", and that's a lot. I think I'd be happy tilting it forward half that as it would allow the seat to go back about that far w/o the top of the seat hitting the rear window. So maybe I need a 7/8" spacer?

So if I tilt it forward 4 degrees by raising the rear of the seat 7/8" the top of the seatback will go forward 2.1". And from memory I think the seatback is currently ~ 1 1/2" from the storage unit. So that would work out about right as it would let me move the seat rearward 1 1/2" and still have the top clear the window.

And if I figure out how to do that in a way that prevents the seat from moving I could then sit in the seat and see how it feels before committing to that position.

Ok, we leave in the morning for a trip to see the kids, so this will have to sit for quite a while until I can get back to it. But just to record how I had been thinking of doing it, I was thinking of cutting a 16 1/2" piece of 1" square tubing so it was wall thickness in front and full height in the rear, giving about the 7/8" delta. Then I was going to put it open-side down on the fore/aft piece of angle iron and weld it to the angle iron. That would give the smooth top surface of the wedge on which to set the track. And nuts welded inside the wedge would take the bolts coming through the tracks to hold them on. And if the cross pieces of angle iron are 16 1/2" apart the open ends of the wedge will be covered by the vertical flanges of the angle iron.

It is clear to me what those words mean, but I've not yet drawn it up so doubt it'll be clear to y'all. But when I get back maybe I can see if it make sense in reality.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks for the further explanation. I think I have it. Part of the problem was me forgetting that I need to rock the seat forward and not backward, so I was looking at the drawings the wrong way 'round.

And I think I understand the folding as well, although I'm not sure whether it'll be easier to fold or to weld on a cap. But the point is to create smooth, closed pieces that don't grab or cut things.

I think what I need to do is to create the frame/platform, bolt it in, and then set the seat in and play with spacers behind the rear of the track so I see what angle will work best, meaning bring the top of the seatback forward enough to allow the seat to go rearward as far as is possible.

Here's my previous statement:

But the seatback is 30" tall and tilting it forward 8 degrees would move the top of the seatback forward 4.2", and that's a lot. I think I'd be happy tilting it forward half that as it would allow the seat to go back about that far w/o the top of the seat hitting the rear window. So maybe I need a 7/8" spacer?

So if I tilt it forward 4 degrees by raising the rear of the seat 7/8" the top of the seatback will go forward 2.1". And from memory I think the seatback is currently ~ 1 1/2" from the storage unit. So that would work out about right as it would let me move the seat rearward 1 1/2" and still have the top clear the window.

And if I figure out how to do that in a way that prevents the seat from moving I could then sit in the seat and see how it feels before committing to that position.

Ok, we leave in the morning for a trip to see the kids, so this will have to sit for quite a while until I can get back to it. But just to record how I had been thinking of doing it, I was thinking of cutting a 16 1/2" piece of 1" square tubing so it was wall thickness in front and full height in the rear, giving about the 7/8" delta. Then I was going to put it open-side down on the fore/aft piece of angle iron and weld it to the angle iron. That would give the smooth top surface of the wedge on which to set the track. And nuts welded inside the wedge would take the bolts coming through the tracks to hold them on. And if the cross pieces of angle iron are 16 1/2" apart the open ends of the wedge will be covered by the vertical flanges of the angle iron.

It is clear to me what those words mean, but I've not yet drawn it up so doubt it'll be clear to y'all. But when I get back maybe I can see if it make sense in reality.

Your CAD shows 16 3/8" overall, so 16 1/8 inside the frame if the stock is 1/8" thick...

I'm not clear on how "the open ends of the wedge will be covered by the vertical flanges of the angle iron" if the front of the wedge is only "wall thickness in front and full height in the rear" where is the front open end, and how is it covered by the vertical flange?

Drive safe. Enjoy your kin and

This will all still be here when you get back.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Your CAD shows 16 3/8" overall, so 16 1/8 inside the frame if the stock is 1/8" thick...

I'm not clear on how "the open ends of the wedge will be covered by the vertical flanges of the angle iron" if the front of the wedge is only "wall thickness in front and full height in the rear" where is the front open end, and how is it covered by the vertical flange?

Drive safe. Enjoy your kin and

This will all still be here when you get back.

Here's a quick and dirty drawing. The angle of the base has the vertical side going up, and the wedge nestles into the angle such that the open ends are protected.

By having the vertical part going up the seat can be as low as possible, and with the wedge the back will be pretty much where it is now. I hope.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Here's a quick and dirty drawing. The angle of the base has the vertical side going up, and the wedge nestles into the angle such that the open ends are protected.

By having the vertical part going up the seat can be as low as possible, and with the wedge the back will be pretty much where it is now. I hope.

Okay, we're back to a plan view, but you intend to lay a sliver of box tube inside a piece of 'stock' instead of replacing it.

I expect there is an inside radius in the stock and you will have to cut or grind a bunch of the outside leg of your wedge piece for it to sit flat.

Interesting..... but it sure seems like bad access and a lot of work.

[Gary Lewis]

Okay, we're back to a plan view, but you intend to lay a sliver of box tube inside a piece of 'stock' instead of replacing it.

I expect there is an inside radius in the stock and you will have to cut or grind a bunch of the outside leg of your wedge piece for it to sit flat.

Interesting..... but it sure seems like bad access and a lot of work.

You are right that the bed rails have a radius. But I'm not sure it'll be all that much work. My saw has the ability to cut angles, so I'm thinking I can cut two wedges out of one piece, and I can make one leg a bit shorter than the other.

As for access, presuming welding access, there's enough room on the 1 1/2" angle to space the wedge out 1/8" and weld right down that gap. And I can make the wedge 1/4" shorter than the distance the front and rear angles are apart, therefore giving 1/8" on either end to weld.

But your questions raise enough concern that I'll proceed with caution. I don't want to get the whole frame made and then mess up on welding in the wedge. Maybe I should braze it in?

[ArdWrknTrk]

You are right that the bed rails have a radius. But I'm not sure it'll be all that much work. My saw has the ability to cut angles, so I'm thinking I can cut two wedges out of one piece, and I can make one leg a bit shorter than the other.

As for access, presuming welding access, there's enough room on the 1 1/2" angle to space the wedge out 1/8" and weld right down that gap. And I can make the wedge 1/4" shorter than the distance the front and rear angles are apart, therefore giving 1/8" on either end to weld.

But your questions raise enough concern that I'll proceed with caution. I don't want to get the whole frame made and then mess up on welding in the wedge. Maybe I should braze it in?

Actually I was thinking about the challenge of attaching the tracks and where they will go when in the full forward position.

I have never worked with these captains chairs, and only have pictures like this one from above to go by.

If the wedge (and therefore attaching bolt) is right up against the inside of the stock's vertical flange, how do you reach it to install it?

How do you even see it?

I wouldn't be concerned about welding v brazing. Torch brazing takes a lot of heat.

Not as high heat as welding, but unless you are using a tig torch with silicon bronze rod it means big flames and lots of flux all over everything.

You have to get the wedge and outer framerail glowing hot.

You have to rinse that nasty flux out from under the wedge.

I'd much rather make a neat mig weld quickly and be done with it.

But then, I think I'd rather use the 1" box as the fore-aft structure and do away with the angle, like I tried to show above.