Gary Lewis Posted October 29, 2022 Share Posted October 29, 2022 Thank you guys, I think I’ve got the correct drive on order from American hot rod solutions. they didn’t have the shaft output seal, so took the old one to Napa and got 3 slightly different ones to try since they didn’t have a direct cross reference on it. Are the seals tight going in? One was loose fitting on the tc side, the other is very tight need lots of help to seat flush the 3rd just needs a few good nudges i hope the next guy doesn’t hate too much. Getting the original one out was a four letter effect for me haha! Yes I said darn it.🤦🏽♂️ Sounds like you are making progress. My seal took a few taps to seat properly. And yes, getting the old one out took a lot of force. There was no doubt early on that it was going to be destroyed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Chapo Posted October 29, 2022 Author Share Posted October 29, 2022 Yes, that drive gear is bad. And I think the replacement part number should be E5TZ 17285-B, as shown on the chart below, which is from our page at Documentation/Driveline/Speedometer Gears, Cables, & Sensors. That snippet is for the 1986 trucks and a Bronco is a U100. Your Borg Warner 1345 is shown in the "Warner T/C" entries. But there are two options - 6 teeth that should be "natural" color, and 8 teeth which should be yellow. Yours looks to be yellow but it also looks to have 6 teeth, and it is the # of teeth that make a difference. And assuming that your speedo has previously been relatively accurate you'll want to go back with what was in there. As for the seal, I bought this one from Torque King, where you can also probably get the drive gear. And will you need a new driven gear? Ok just trying to get my terminology up to par with you guys. And get some free knowledge from the experts.. The driven gear is the smaller plastic 20 tooth gear that is clipped on to end the speed sensor correct? the drive gear… in my case is an 8 tooth gear affixed to a steel sleeve that slips onto the output shaft. Question is if this sleeve / gear just slips on and turns freely on the shaft what makes it rotate at the same speed as a moving & rotating shaft? Is it friction or is it that once the knuckle is bolted back on its secured in place and rotate as one. To answer an earlier question from Gary I don’t think I will need a driven gear mine looks perfectly fine in fact new (maybe the po had attempted a fix by simply replacing it only, I can now see why) weird that the drive gear on the shaft is obviously bad and the other looking newish, It clips right on and engages the cable as it should. I’ll post my results when I get back to it. Peace! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 29, 2022 Share Posted October 29, 2022 Ok just trying to get my terminology up to par with you guys. And get some free knowledge from the experts.. The driven gear is the smaller plastic 20 tooth gear that is clipped on to end the speed sensor correct? the drive gear… in my case is an 8 tooth gear affixed to a steel sleeve that slips onto the output shaft. Question is if this sleeve / gear just slips on and turns freely on the shaft what makes it rotate at the same speed as a moving & rotating shaft? Is it friction or is it that once the knuckle is bolted back on its secured in place and rotate as one. To answer an earlier question from Gary I don’t think I will need a driven gear mine looks perfectly fine in fact new (maybe the po had attempted a fix by simply replacing it only, I can now see why) weird that the drive gear on the shaft is obviously bad and the other looking newish, It clips right on and engages the cable as it should. I’ll post my results when I get back to it. Peace! You are right in your terminology: the drive gear is on the transfer case's output shaft, and it drives the "driven" gear on the end of the speedo cable. As for the drive gear slipping, go read my thread from the link above as that's exactly the problem I had. The nut on the output shaft wasn't tight enough and the gear was slipping. Now that it is torqued down I have no problems. But something chewed up the drive gear. Did you say the cable was bad? Maybe it bound up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted October 29, 2022 Share Posted October 29, 2022 You are right in your terminology: the drive gear is on the transfer case's output shaft, and it drives the "driven" gear on the end of the speedo cable. As for the drive gear slipping, go read my thread from the link above as that's exactly the problem I had. The nut on the output shaft wasn't tight enough and the gear was slipping. Now that it is torqued down I have no problems. But something chewed up the drive gear. Did you say the cable was bad? Maybe it bound up? that is a valid point. as long as the driven gear is not " feeling" excessive resistance there should be no reason for the failure of this type. assuming the correct gear combination. it's common for these to have a low-speed pulse if the cable is kinked, bent too tight around other components or needs grease. really whoever takes the spline flex shaft out to grease them? no one..... unless they are old school mechanics like me. a good grease for these is also sold for flex shafts in weed eaters. imagine that. it may not be ford specific but it's a good substitute. especially compared to not greasing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Chapo Posted October 30, 2022 Author Share Posted October 30, 2022 that is a valid point. as long as the driven gear is not " feeling" excessive resistance there should be no reason for the failure of this type. assuming the correct gear combination. it's common for these to have a low-speed pulse if the cable is kinked, bent too tight around other components or needs grease. really whoever takes the spline flex shaft out to grease them? no one..... unless they are old school mechanics like me. a good grease for these is also sold for flex shafts in weed eaters. imagine that. it may not be ford specific but it's a good substitute. especially compared to not greasing it. Thank you Gary and Mat. And others As a newbie always glad and appreciative of all of the help, encouragement and guidance I get from this forum and btw: I brag on you guys all the time especially when people ask in amazement “how do you even know what to do? Or where did you get that?” Haha ..my time to shine the spotlight here on ya’ll So many of you are very generous in many way thank you! I just received a package of trim molding that I needed at no charge to me not even the shipping cost. Wow you guys are the best! Back to Bronkita. Yeah interesting how things progress all I wanted was my speedometer etc to work nice knowing how fast or slow in my case one is moving. Never imagined I’d be owning a 1/2” drive and a 1 1/4” socket .. playing with the big boy’s now! Ok getting back on track again yes cable was severed almost in half by the shift linkage and the cable support placement very obviously to see cause of damage. Mat.. thanks for reminding me to check gear compatibility I was wondering about that I don’t want to do this again. But you once stated something along the lines of: don’t plan a rebuild/restore project unless you pan on doing it twice!! man that is so true. I laugh when I tell folks I fix one thing but break two others. Can’t wait until it’s at least one to one. How tight should that nut be? I own a torque wrench now too you know! I’ll be sure cable is free moving and everything well greased. Peace Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 30, 2022 Share Posted October 30, 2022 Thank you Gary and Mat. And others As a newbie always glad and appreciative of all of the help, encouragement and guidance I get from this forum and btw: I brag on you guys all the time especially when people ask in amazement “how do you even know what to do? Or where did you get that?” Haha ..my time to shine the spotlight here on ya’ll So many of you are very generous in many way thank you! I just received a package of trim molding that I needed at no charge to me not even the shipping cost. Wow you guys are the best! Back to Bronkita. Yeah interesting how things progress all I wanted was my speedometer etc to work nice knowing how fast or slow in my case one is moving. Never imagined I’d be owning a 1/2” drive and a 1 1/4” socket .. playing with the big boy’s now! Ok getting back on track again yes cable was severed almost in half by the shift linkage and the cable support placement very obviously to see cause of damage. Mat.. thanks for reminding me to check gear compatibility I was wondering about that I don’t want to do this again. But you once stated something along the lines of: don’t plan a rebuild/restore project unless you pan on doing it twice!! man that is so true. I laugh when I tell folks I fix one thing but break two others. Can’t wait until it’s at least one to one. How tight should that nut be? I own a torque wrench now too you know! I’ll be sure cable is free moving and everything well greased. Peace Happy to help. Glad it is coming together. On the torque, I don't remember but I'm sure it is listed at the end of the factory service manual section on the page at Documentation/Driveline/Transfer Cases and then the BW1345 tab and the Ford Repair Procedures tab or the Borg-Warner's Service Manual tab. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Chapo Posted October 31, 2022 Author Share Posted October 31, 2022 Happy to help. Glad it is coming together. On the torque, I don't remember but I'm sure it is listed at the end of the factory service manual section on the page at Documentation/Driveline/Transfer Cases and then the BW1345 tab and the Ford Repair Procedures tab or the Borg-Warner's Service Manual tab. Does 120-150 sound about right ? Thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 31, 2022 Share Posted October 31, 2022 Does 120-150 sound about right ? Thx That's what the factory shop manual says. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Chapo Posted November 2, 2022 Author Share Posted November 2, 2022 Happy to help. Glad it is coming together. On the torque, I don't remember but I'm sure it is listed at the end of the factory service manual section on the page at Documentation/Driveline/Transfer Cases and then the BW1345 tab and the Ford Repair Procedures tab or the Borg-Warner's Service Manual tab. The gear I received seems to have a level of play on the output shaft that the original one doesn’t have. Doesn’t feel firmly on the shaft but loose fitting and a bit of wiggle I think maybe once the knuckle is torqued back on it will be in place but, it’s a bit concerning to me should I be concerned and not install it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 2, 2022 Share Posted November 2, 2022 The gear I received seems to have a level of play on the output shaft that the original one doesn’t have. Doesn’t feel firmly on the shaft but loose fitting and a bit of wiggle I think maybe once the knuckle is torqued back on it will be in place but, it’s a bit concerning to me should I be concerned and not install it? The yoke will clamp it, but if it has too much play side to side then it may bind a bit with the driven gear. Can you post a video of how much play it has? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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