Time for a new radiator?

[Rembrant]

Was your '94 donors rad support so bad that you couldn't use the saddles, or was it just down to a frame and the rest sent to scrap at that point?

I recall where you had to look the crumple zone back to fit the Bullnose bumper brackets.

Right. I didn't have the foresight at the time to remove those lower radiator saddles. When I pulled the whole body off the 1995 F150 I was only concerned with the chassis at the time because I thought I'd just buy the correct radiator for the 1980. Later on, deep into Covid I found out that you couldn't buy the 1980-1984 radiators anymore...they were double the price from a year or before, and they were all out of stock anyway. So I bought a used 1994 rad from a friend and that was all he had left of that truck, so I had to make my own lower saddles.

 

[BigBrother-84]

Was your '94 donors rad support so bad that you couldn't use the saddles, or was it just down to a frame and the rest sent to scrap at that point?

I recall where you had to look the crumple zone back to fit the Bullnose bumper brackets.

Right. I didn't have the foresight at the time to remove those lower radiator saddles. When I pulled the whole body off the 1995 F150 I was only concerned with the chassis at the time because I thought I'd just buy the correct radiator for the 1980. Later on, deep into Covid I found out that you couldn't buy the 1980-1984 radiators anymore...they were double the price from a year or before, and they were all out of stock anyway. So I bought a used 1994 rad from a friend and that was all he had left of that truck, so I had to make my own lower saddles.

Thanks guys for digging and pointing out relevant information.

In all cases, I realize it's going to be quite expansive, especially considering the shipping fees. I'am also contemplating the rebuild solution. A specialized shop in Montreal told me they keep the lateral tanks and put a brand new radiant core, all for 435$ US.

It is tempting to go that way, since the result is a "new" rad exactly the same as OEM...

Any advice about such rad restoration?

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks guys for digging and pointing out relevant information.

In all cases, I realize it's going to be quite expansive, especially considering the shipping fees. I'am also contemplating the rebuild solution. A specialized shop in Montreal told me they keep the lateral tanks and put a brand new radiant core, all for 435$ US.

It is tempting to go that way, since the result is a "new" rad exactly the same as OEM...

Any advice about such rad restoration?

I'm not sure I'd go down that road, Jeff. Everything I hear about the aluminum radiators is that they cool better than the old copper/brass ones, and some say much better. So I lean to the idea of changing the radiator support to go with a later model radiator and pick up one of those.

But it isn't a clear-cut decision. However, it appears to be less expensive and provides better cooling.

Just my $.02.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm not sure I'd go down that road, Jeff. Everything I hear about the aluminum radiators is that they cool better than the old copper/brass ones, and some say much better. So I lean to the idea of changing the radiator support to go with a later model radiator and pick up one of those.

But it isn't a clear-cut decision. However, it appears to be less expensive and provides better cooling.

Just my $.02.

Ricky used to recore a lot of radiators but only for antique vehicles and big trucks where replacements were in the thousands.

I never heard he had a callback, because he pressure tested them all.

Are you really sure your core is bad?

Especially after using whatever flush or descaling product you did.

Did you get a lot of chunks out when you flushed it?

Did you try dumping a full bucket of water through it?

Do you have a non-contact thermometer so you can look for hotspots?

[BigBrother-84]

Ricky used to recore a lot of radiators but only for antique vehicles and big trucks where replacements were in the thousands.

I never heard he had a callback, because he pressure tested them all.

Are you really sure your core is bad?

Especially after using whatever flush or descaling product you did.

Did you get a lot of chunks out when you flushed it?

Did you try dumping a full bucket of water through it?

Do you have a non-contact thermometer so you can look for hotspots?

Ok friends, I decided to make a first "cheaper" test.

The good side is that all this experiment can be done without stalling Big Brother. I can take my time.

Today, I went to my favorite junk yard (easy, it's the only one around that keeps old f-series).

Jonathan Labrosse, the owner and a very nice guy, took a long time to dig around his stock, and finally found one 1981 original rad that fits perfectly.

The interesting fact, aside it's in pretty good shape and not too expansive (90$ US), is that it is wider (27") than my existing one (21").

I cannot imagine that 6" wider cannot deliver a cooler effect.

The downside is that my fan housing covers only 21" wide, so this supplemental 6" of radiator will be cooled only when the truck is moving. Not very satisfying for me. I would prefer that the fan creates an air flow through 100% of the radiator surface.

My plan is:

1- Clean it as much as I can, in and out, using any stuff you could suggest me, to make it shine as a new;

2- Make a pressure test on it;

3- If positive test, find a larger fan housing;

4- Buy a new lower coolant hose, since it is longer and has to get around the power steering pump.

If it's a fail, I'll step back and go with the new aluminum option, with no regrets.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Ok friends, I decided to make a first "cheaper" test.

The good side is that all this experiment can be done without stalling Big Brother. I can take my time.

Today, I went to my favorite junk yard (easy, it's the only one around that keeps old f-series).

Jonathan Labrosse, the owner and a very nice guy, took a long time to dig around his stock, and finally found one 1981 original rad that fits perfectly.

The interesting fact, aside it's in pretty good shape and not too expansive (90$ US), is that it is wider (27") than my existing one (21").

I cannot imagine that 6" wider cannot deliver a cooler effect.

The downside is that my fan housing covers only 21" wide, so this supplemental 6" of radiator will be cooled only when the truck is moving. Not very satisfying for me. I would prefer that the fan creates an air flow through 100% of the radiator surface.

My plan is:

1- Clean it as much as I can, in and out, using any stuff you could suggest me, to make it shine as a new;

2- Make a pressure test on it;

3- If positive test, find a larger fan housing;

4- Buy a new lower coolant hose, since it is longer and has to get around the power steering pump.

If it's a fail, I'll step back and go with the new aluminum option, with no regrets.

I think that's a good plan.

But I don't have a suggestion for what to clean the radiator with, although someone surely will.

[BigBrother-84]

I think that's a good plan.

But I don't have a suggestion for what to clean the radiator with, although someone surely will.

Ok, here are the done steps:

1- Found a good 27" radiator at my local junk yard, and a nice OEM 27" shroud too. 75$ US.

2- Sent the radiator to a specialized shop, they cleaned it, pressure tested it, painted it. 75$ US.

3-Swaped the 21" radiator with the "new" 27".

So, for less than 200$ US (new hoses/clips included), I got a nice 27" radiator/shroud, tested & cleaned. The swap went easy.

For interested friends, I show side by side the 21" and 27".

21" shroud stamped part#:

27" shroud stamped part#:

 

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, here are the done steps:

1- Found a good 27" radiator at my local junk yard, and a nice OEM 27" shroud too. 75$ US.

2- Sent the radiator to a specialized shop, they cleaned it, pressure tested it, painted it. 75$ US.

3-Swaped the 21" radiator with the "new" 27".

So, for less than 200$ US (new hoses/clips included), I got a nice 27" radiator/shroud, tested & cleaned. The swap went easy.

For interested friends, I show side by side the 21" and 27".

21" shroud stamped part#:

27" shroud stamped part#:

Well done, Jeff! Perfect fit.

[Rusty_S85]

Ok, here are the done steps:

1- Found a good 27" radiator at my local junk yard, and a nice OEM 27" shroud too. 75$ US.

2- Sent the radiator to a specialized shop, they cleaned it, pressure tested it, painted it. 75$ US.

3-Swaped the 21" radiator with the "new" 27".

So, for less than 200$ US (new hoses/clips included), I got a nice 27" radiator/shroud, tested & cleaned. The swap went easy.

For interested friends, I show side by side the 21" and 27".

21" shroud stamped part#:

27" shroud stamped part#:

For those that dont know the 27" radiator is basically the HD cooling option, you had two the SD cooling which is the 21" radiator and the HD cooling which is the 27".

Im surprised yours has the 21" cause all the trucks Ive seen locally had the 27". I have seen so many 27" radiators that I started to think there was no trucks sold with the 21" outside of in the F100 light duty trucks.

[ArdWrknTrk]

For those that dont know the 27" radiator is basically the HD cooling option, you had two the SD cooling which is the 21" radiator and the HD cooling which is the 27".

Im surprised yours has the 21" cause all the trucks Ive seen locally had the 27". I have seen so many 27" radiators that I started to think there was no trucks sold with the 21" outside of in the F100 light duty trucks.

I'd imagine cooling needs in Canada are probably not near as severe as Texas.

Just like a diesel truck in Alaska or Canada might always have a block heater.

Does anybody know if Ford had certain "mandatory options" for certain DSO's?