mat in tn Posted October 15, 2022 Share Posted October 15, 2022 Flat spring is definitely on top. Would it matter if the bottom hinge has no spring, as long as the pin bushings are tight? i think if you were to just swap the top hinge with the newer style then the bottom can stay but certainly do the pin and bushings while you are there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted October 30, 2022 Author Share Posted October 30, 2022 i think if you were to just swap the top hinge with the newer style then the bottom can stay but certainly do the pin and bushings while you are there. Did the work yesterday. I went with Goodmark hinges and SKF pin/bushing kits. Did not go well: -Found some pretty nasty rust on the driver's side upper hinge upper bolt. I didn't have a long enough replacement handy, so I rolled with it. - Made the mistake of trying to do the pins/bushings on the lower hinge of the driver's side. Not much more slop than new... should haven't tried to fix what wasn't broke. Drilling out the old pin and driving out th eold bushings was no problem but I couldn't get the new bushings to press in. I got part of the way there using a mini-vise (but I was bending the handle) but not far enough. Read that they need to be drilled to 15/32"... which I had on a unibit, but was smaller. Like a good idiot, I went up a size to 1/2"... too big! Had to wrap the bushings in masking tape to make them slip without slop. I didn't bother trying the passenger side after that. SKF didn't give any directions at all -The driver's side hinges lined up OK the first try... but I got lucky. The passenger side took many tries (and some creative socket/ratchet wrench use to get to the hinge/body bolts with the hinges attached). Had to lift the door with a floor jack to get enough preload for the the door to land in the right spot (my wife couldn't lift it hard enough); otherwise the door was too low and the door and fender interfered (may also be an issue leftover from KO'ing a deer last year). -While I was at it, I also replaced and rerouted the speaker wiring. I had to cut it to remove the doors anyway, and what was there was some really thin (20 gauge?) junky aftermarket garbage (to go with the equally junk Jensen speakers and "AMERICAN" analog aftermarket FM radio that came with the truck and I replaced not long after). I used Monster 16 gauge cable from Walmart... not sold as automotive wire, but is adequately flexible and per foot a lot cheaper than what was sold as automotive. I won't say Monster is magic (I'm not an audiophile/audiophool), but at least when it comes to cables and wire I've never had a bad product (their 3.5mm cables are particulary good, other than the metal trim tubes coming unglued from the connectors). Glad to have that job over with. Man do I hate body work... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted October 30, 2022 Share Posted October 30, 2022 Did the work yesterday. I went with Goodmark hinges and SKF pin/bushing kits. Did not go well: -Found some pretty nasty rust on the driver's side upper hinge upper bolt. I didn't have a long enough replacement handy, so I rolled with it. - Made the mistake of trying to do the pins/bushings on the lower hinge of the driver's side. Not much more slop than new... should haven't tried to fix what wasn't broke. Drilling out the old pin and driving out th eold bushings was no problem but I couldn't get the new bushings to press in. I got part of the way there using a mini-vise (but I was bending the handle) but not far enough. Read that they need to be drilled to 15/32"... which I had on a unibit, but was smaller. Like a good idiot, I went up a size to 1/2"... too big! Had to wrap the bushings in masking tape to make them slip without slop. I didn't bother trying the passenger side after that. SKF didn't give any directions at all -The driver's side hinges lined up OK the first try... but I got lucky. The passenger side took many tries (and some creative socket/ratchet wrench use to get to the hinge/body bolts with the hinges attached). Had to lift the door with a floor jack to get enough preload for the the door to land in the right spot (my wife couldn't lift it hard enough); otherwise the door was too low and the door and fender interfered (may also be an issue leftover from KO'ing a deer last year). -While I was at it, I also replaced and rerouted the speaker wiring. I had to cut it to remove the doors anyway, and what was there was some really thin (20 gauge?) junky aftermarket garbage (to go with the equally junk Jensen speakers and "AMERICAN" analog aftermarket FM radio that came with the truck and I replaced not long after). I used Monster 16 gauge cable from Walmart... not sold as automotive wire, but is adequately flexible and per foot a lot cheaper than what was sold as automotive. I won't say Monster is magic (I'm not an audiophile/audiophool), but at least when it comes to cables and wire I've never had a bad product (their 3.5mm cables are particulary good, other than the metal trim tubes coming unglued from the connectors). Glad to have that job over with. Man do I hate body work... Looks good. I actually bought the spring NOS, it's been a while since I did mine, I think mine was broken when I got the truck, the roller worked just fine wasn't seized up or anything. I got just the spring NOS off Ebay using the part number I found on the parts catalog. I how ever did not remove the door hinge and fought the spring forcing it into place. I got it at the price of putting a couple scratches in the cab by the hinge, but I am really contemplating having the fenders removed when I take the truck to paint so the cab can be painted properly by the hinges, so everything matches. Not like the fenders are hard to remove anyways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 30, 2022 Share Posted October 30, 2022 Did the work yesterday. I went with Goodmark hinges and SKF pin/bushing kits. Did not go well: -Found some pretty nasty rust on the driver's side upper hinge upper bolt. I didn't have a long enough replacement handy, so I rolled with it. - Made the mistake of trying to do the pins/bushings on the lower hinge of the driver's side. Not much more slop than new... should haven't tried to fix what wasn't broke. Drilling out the old pin and driving out th eold bushings was no problem but I couldn't get the new bushings to press in. I got part of the way there using a mini-vise (but I was bending the handle) but not far enough. Read that they need to be drilled to 15/32"... which I had on a unibit, but was smaller. Like a good idiot, I went up a size to 1/2"... too big! Had to wrap the bushings in masking tape to make them slip without slop. I didn't bother trying the passenger side after that. SKF didn't give any directions at all -The driver's side hinges lined up OK the first try... but I got lucky. The passenger side took many tries (and some creative socket/ratchet wrench use to get to the hinge/body bolts with the hinges attached). Had to lift the door with a floor jack to get enough preload for the the door to land in the right spot (my wife couldn't lift it hard enough); otherwise the door was too low and the door and fender interfered (may also be an issue leftover from KO'ing a deer last year). -While I was at it, I also replaced and rerouted the speaker wiring. I had to cut it to remove the doors anyway, and what was there was some really thin (20 gauge?) junky aftermarket garbage (to go with the equally junk Jensen speakers and "AMERICAN" analog aftermarket FM radio that came with the truck and I replaced not long after). I used Monster 16 gauge cable from Walmart... not sold as automotive wire, but is adequately flexible and per foot a lot cheaper than what was sold as automotive. I won't say Monster is magic (I'm not an audiophile/audiophool), but at least when it comes to cables and wire I've never had a bad product (their 3.5mm cables are particulary good, other than the metal trim tubes coming unglued from the connectors). Glad to have that job over with. Man do I hate body work... Sounds like quite the ordeal, Larry. Glad you got it done. But it is a bummer on the bolt. Can you get to it to replace it now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 30, 2022 Share Posted October 30, 2022 Sounds like quite the ordeal, Larry. Glad you got it done. But it is a bummer on the bolt. Can you get to it to replace it now? Masking tape door bushing doesn't sound long for this world. Would you consider replacing the lower hinge if it dropped in your lap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted October 30, 2022 Author Share Posted October 30, 2022 Masking tape door bushing doesn't sound long for this world. Would you consider replacing the lower hinge if it dropped in your lap? Yes. I was going to replace it later... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted February 12 Author Share Posted February 12 Yes. I was going to replace it later... ... and that hinge is shot as of this weekend. Door sagging pretty bad. The upper hinge bushings were spinning too... who makes good hinges? as much of a pain as this was last time, I'd rather not waste my time and money on more junk parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 ... and that hinge is shot as of this weekend. Door sagging pretty bad. The upper hinge bushings were spinning too... who makes good hinges? as much of a pain as this was last time, I'd rather not waste my time and money on more junk parts. Masking tape bandaid, and the parts are no good? How long do you expect a pivot to work if it's not held coaxial with the other hinge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 ... and that hinge is shot as of this weekend. Door sagging pretty bad. The upper hinge bushings were spinning too... who makes good hinges? as much of a pain as this was last time, I'd rather not waste my time and money on more junk parts. Larry - I don't know if anyone makes "good" hinges. I'd be tempted to go with original style hinges with new bushings in them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 Larry - I don't know if anyone makes "good" hinges. I'd be tempted to go with original style hinges with new bushings in them. This is working for me.💡 I've done them once on the passenger side and twice on my side, in 38yrs since it rolled off the line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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