Larry the Lariat - My 86 F150 4x4

[chirkware]

I haven't bought it yet. I just submitted an offer it. It's a 130a.

I suppose the 95a probably would be sufficient, but who knows if I'll ever do something to this truck that needs more power. Should I need to plan for a two belt pulley, or just see how it goes and upgrade if I find I need it? As of right now, I don't have much planned that should add much draw.

Well I went out today with plans of swapping in the new 3g alternator, but decided I should actually do a little testing first.

Last weekend, I charged the battery overnight and disconnected the charger the next day. I also had taken the negative post off when I charged it, and it was still off this morning. The battery read 12.9v when I put my meter on it, 5-6 days after last charge.

After starting the engine, voltage at the battery consistently read 14.5v. Sounds like the old alternator is still doing it's job.

So does this point a finger back at the battery? Maybe it can't take the heat under the hood with that 351w loaded up?

Or does it sound more like a parasitic draw? Keep in mind, in the past, Larry started just fine after sitting for a week or two with the battery connected, so there doesn't seem to be a significant draw running it down just sitting there.

Another thought ... Could it simply be the starter is getting hot and thus not wanting to start the engine back when hot? I don't really think this is the case since a jump start worked for me last weekend, but just throwing it out there.

I don't think I ever put a meter on the battery when it's weak trying to turn over the engine. Wish I had.

My battery is a new to me "blem" battery from Interstate Battery. I've had good luck with those, but that doesn't mean I didn't get a dud this time.

I'm contemplating putting the battery from my 70 (a blem I got four years ago that is holding strong!) in Larry and see if it gets ran down too. If it holds up, that would seem to prove it's the battery.

I still want to do the alternator swap even if it's not a current problem (pardon the pun!), but it seems I should figure out and fix my actual issue first. (What a novel concept!)

[Gary Lewis]

Well I went out today with plans of swapping in the new 3g alternator, but decided I should actually do a little testing first.

Last weekend, I charged the battery overnight and disconnected the charger the next day. I also had taken the negative post off when I charged it, and it was still off this morning. The battery read 12.9v when I put my meter on it, 5-6 days after last charge.

After starting the engine, voltage at the battery consistently read 14.5v. Sounds like the old alternator is still doing it's job.

So does this point a finger back at the battery? Maybe it can't take the heat under the hood with that 351w loaded up?

Or does it sound more like a parasitic draw? Keep in mind, in the past, Larry started just fine after sitting for a week or two with the battery connected, so there doesn't seem to be a significant draw running it down just sitting there.

Another thought ... Could it simply be the starter is getting hot and thus not wanting to start the engine back when hot? I don't really think this is the case since a jump start worked for me last weekend, but just throwing it out there.

I don't think I ever put a meter on the battery when it's weak trying to turn over the engine. Wish I had.

My battery is a new to me "blem" battery from Interstate Battery. I've had good luck with those, but that doesn't mean I didn't get a dud this time.

I'm contemplating putting the battery from my 70 (a blem I got four years ago that is holding strong!) in Larry and see if it gets ran down too. If it holds up, that would seem to prove it's the battery.

I still want to do the alternator swap even if it's not a current problem (pardon the pun!), but it seems I should figure out and fix my actual issue first. (What a novel concept!)

Your battery is good, but there is apparently some draw. Might be "parasitic", as in something left on. But it could be that a diode is blown in the alternator.

You can test that by disconnecting the alternator and testing to see what the voltage on the battery is. Then connect the alternator and see if the voltage drops.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well I went out today with plans of swapping in the new 3g alternator, but decided I should actually do a little testing first.

Last weekend, I charged the battery overnight and disconnected the charger the next day. I also had taken the negative post off when I charged it, and it was still off this morning. The battery read 12.9v when I put my meter on it, 5-6 days after last charge.

After starting the engine, voltage at the battery consistently read 14.5v. Sounds like the old alternator is still doing it's job.

So does this point a finger back at the battery? Maybe it can't take the heat under the hood with that 351w loaded up?

Or does it sound more like a parasitic draw? Keep in mind, in the past, Larry started just fine after sitting for a week or two with the battery connected, so there doesn't seem to be a significant draw running it down just sitting there.

Another thought ... Could it simply be the starter is getting hot and thus not wanting to start the engine back when hot? I don't really think this is the case since a jump start worked for me last weekend, but just throwing it out there.

I don't think I ever put a meter on the battery when it's weak trying to turn over the engine. Wish I had.

My battery is a new to me "blem" battery from Interstate Battery. I've had good luck with those, but that doesn't mean I didn't get a dud this time.

I'm contemplating putting the battery from my 70 (a blem I got four years ago that is holding strong!) in Larry and see if it gets ran down too. If it holds up, that would seem to prove it's the battery.

I still want to do the alternator swap even if it's not a current problem (pardon the pun!), but it seems I should figure out and fix my actual issue first. (What a novel concept!)

And this is why I say verify., then rectify.

Your battery is apparently very good! The 2G is always suspect.

Theoretically the battery should have 12.6V so maybe your meter is reading a little high, but I wouldn't pass it without an actual load tester.

These diagnostic scanners they use at auto parts stores give a quick look at battery and charging system health.

But the counter kid doesn't want to disconnect the battery or be the last straw responsible for killing it.

Your situation could be a worn starter. It could be a rotten cable. It could be a combination of many factors.

I'd definitely try to determine why the quiescent draw seems so high and do a voltage drop test on the starter & charging system (both cold and hot)

 

[chirkware]

And this is why I say verify., then rectify.

Your battery is apparently very good! The 2G is always suspect.

Theoretically the battery should have 12.6V so maybe your meter is reading a little high, but I wouldn't pass it without an actual load tester.

These diagnostic scanners they use at auto parts stores give a quick look at battery and charging system health.

But the counter kid doesn't want to disconnect the battery or be the last straw responsible for killing it.

Your situation could be a worn starter. It could be a rotten cable. It could be a combination of many factors.

I'd definitely try to determine why the quiescent draw seems so high and do a voltage drop test on the starter & charging system (both cold and hot)

So after further review, I think I was wrong to dismiss my issue from being a starter issue. It starts fine when cold, and the battery is charging.

Here’s a start after 30 minutes of the engine running (while I adjusted timing again). Even with a jump box, it’s weak to start. It only does this when hot, once it cools, the truck starts no problem.

I guess I’ll do them 3g upgrade anyway at some point. I already have the parts, but no big rush.

 

[chirkware]

So after further review, I think I was wrong to dismiss my issue from being a starter issue. It starts fine when cold, and the battery is charging.

Here’s a start after 30 minutes of the engine running (while I adjusted timing again). Even with a jump box, it’s weak to start. It only does this when hot, once it cools, the truck starts no problem.

I guess I’ll do them 3g upgrade anyway at some point. I already have the parts, but no big rush.

Oh, and this is something I’m stoked about…went and picked this up this evening.

[Gary Lewis]

So after further review, I think I was wrong to dismiss my issue from being a starter issue. It starts fine when cold, and the battery is charging.

Here’s a start after 30 minutes of the engine running (while I adjusted timing again). Even with a jump box, it’s weak to start. It only does this when hot, once it cools, the truck starts no problem.

I guess I’ll do them 3g upgrade anyway at some point. I already have the parts, but no big rush.

I think you may be right - starter. What happens is that the bushing on a starter wears and lets the armature get close to the windings. If it touches then the drag goes up dramatically. But when a starter gets hot and everything expands it can touch when it won't when cold. And when it touches it gets hotter, so it expands more, which means it touches more, which....

So if it starts fine cold but not hot I'd start with the starter.

And that's a really nice tailgate!

[chirkware]

I think you may be right - starter. What happens is that the bushing on a starter wears and lets the armature get close to the windings. If it touches then the drag goes up dramatically. But when a starter gets hot and everything expands it can touch when it won't when cold. And when it touches it gets hotter, so it expands more, which means it touches more, which....

So if it starts fine cold but not hot I'd start with the starter.

And that's a really nice tailgate!

HUGE difference!

Mills Furniture & Appliance is in Arjay, KY. Apparently they bought a new 1986 F250, and then decided to replace the tailgate with a lift. This gate has been stored since 1986! It did get scuffed good at some point, but that’s just some character. Their truck had a 302 so the gate has an Electronic Fuel Injection badge on it.

Any idea of how to coat the inside of the gate to help prevent rust now that it’ll be outdoors?

Also, what year truck is the old gate off of? (Edit: the rusty one is the one I’m wondering about). It’s got the metal bars that hinge to support it instead of the cables and I know that’s not there correct trim plate.

[Gary Lewis]

HUGE difference!

Mills Furniture & Appliance is in Arjay, KY. Apparently they bought a new 1986 F250, and then decided to replace the tailgate with a lift. This gate has been stored since 1986! It did get scuffed good at some point, but that’s just some character. Their truck had a 302 so the gate has an Electronic Fuel Injection badge on it.

Any idea of how to coat the inside of the gate to help prevent rust now that it’ll be outdoors?

Also, what year truck is the old gate off of? (Edit: the rusty one is the one I’m wondering about). It’s got the metal bars that hinge to support it instead of the cables and I know that’s not there correct trim plate.

Yes, that's a huge difference.

I used Fluid Film to spray inside things, so it would probably work for the tailgate. It is oily and creeps in everywhere.

As for what year the 'gate is, I dunno. I say that because the 1980 - 82 'gates had the straps and the '83 and later ones had the cables. But there wasn't an EFI'd engine in 1980 - 82.

But you can go to our page at Documentation/Exterior/Bed, Tailgates, & Components and then the Tailgates followed by Changing Tailgates tabs. But while it is fairly easy to put a later 'gate on an earlier truck, it might not be so easy vice versa.

[salans7]

Yes, that's a huge difference.

I used Fluid Film to spray inside things, so it would probably work for the tailgate. It is oily and creeps in everywhere.

As for what year the 'gate is, I dunno. I say that because the 1980 - 82 'gates had the straps and the '83 and later ones had the cables. But there wasn't an EFI'd engine in 1980 - 82.

But you can go to our page at Documentation/Exterior/Bed, Tailgates, & Components and then the Tailgates followed by Changing Tailgates tabs. But while it is fairly easy to put a later 'gate on an earlier truck, it might not be so easy vice versa.

The 1980-1982 trucks had the metal supports as Gary said, but that trim panel is correct for 1980-1984 trucks with XLT and Lariat packages.

[chirkware]

The 1980-1982 trucks had the metal supports as Gary said, but that trim panel is correct for 1980-1984 trucks with XLT and Lariat packages.

OK, so the particular rusty gate that was on "Larry" when I bought it was likely off an 80-82 XLT/Lariat truck, but that panel is correct for 80-84. Any thoughts on the value for that panel? I've heard they are hard to find.