chirkware Posted August 29, 2023 Author Share Posted August 29, 2023 Did you get the 95A (4 hole) or 130A (2 hole) 3G? That would influence the Megafuse you'd want. The pigtail pair looks good if you have a crimper and some fittings. I don't think you need to fuse LG/R the exciter wire. You certainly don't 'need' an ammeter, or a voltmeter.... Unpinning the R/O and Y/G wires at connector (C610)will completely isolate it. Many of these trucks only had an indicator to show charging. Unlike Gary's instructions I'd want to know power in the cab like your USB would show. It seems an expedient solution without opening the cluster. I haven't bought it yet. I just submitted an offer it. It's a 130a. I suppose the 95a probably would be sufficient, but who knows if I'll ever do something to this truck that needs more power. Should I need to plan for a two belt pulley, or just see how it goes and upgrade if I find I need it? As of right now, I don't have much planned that should add much draw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 29, 2023 Share Posted August 29, 2023 I think I'm just gonna go ahead and upgrade to a 3g alternator. I plan on keeping this truck a long time, so let's just eliminate a known problem area now. I need to go back and read through the guide again to see if I'm missing anything... Looking back at your post the one thing I see you'll need is a piece of 10Ga. primary wire to bring the yellow 37 wire from where it used to live at C610 to the relay terminal where the charge cable attaches. You see that the cab feeds each have their own fusible links after the splice where it forks. Edit: You won't need a second belt unless you apply too much load, and you aren't changing/adding anything today. The one thing you might notice is a small chirp or squeal on startup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirkware Posted August 29, 2023 Author Share Posted August 29, 2023 Looking back at your post the one thing I see you'll need is a piece of 10Ga. primary wire to bring the yellow 37 wire from where it used to live at C610 to the relay terminal where the charge cable attaches. You see that the cab feeds each have their own fusible links after the splice where it forks. Edit: You won't need a second belt unless you apply too much load, and you aren't changing/adding anything today. The one thing you might notice is a small chirp or squeal on startup. Good call! I need to study the wiring diagram before I get too much further so I don't miss anything. I do have a piece of 10awg AWM wire that's 18in long and yellow if that's enough. Leftovers from an old APC UPS unit I scrapped after it tried to kill me (long story... Let's just say my face was a foot from it when sparks flew out!). I've got a three day weekend needing a project. 😃👍👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 30, 2023 Share Posted August 30, 2023 Looking back at your post the one thing I see you'll need is a piece of 10Ga. primary wire to bring the yellow 37 wire from where it used to live at C610 to the relay terminal where the charge cable attaches. You see that the cab feeds each have their own fusible links after the splice where it forks. Edit: You won't need a second belt unless you apply too much load, and you aren't changing/adding anything today. The one thing you might notice is a small chirp or squeal on startup. Good call! I need to study the wiring diagram before I get too much further so I don't miss anything. I do have a piece of 10awg AWM wire that's 18in long and yellow if that's enough. Leftovers from an old APC UPS unit I scrapped after it tried to kill me (long story... Let's just say my face was a foot from it when sparks flew out!). I've got a three day weekend needing a project. 😃👍👍 18" seems like it should be enough to take wire 37 from splice 202 or connector 610 to the starter relay stud, but you can always bring it to the downstream side of your Megafuse holder as well. (this is electrically the same, just the other end of the short cable) Fuselink 'J' goes in the bin, but the hot stud of the starter relay can be crowded depending on how many circuits you have in your truck. On my truck I elected to go for the Megafuse terminal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirkware Posted August 31, 2023 Author Share Posted August 31, 2023 18" seems like it should be enough to take wire 37 from splice 202 or connector 610 to the starter relay stud, but you can always bring it to the downstream side of your Megafuse holder as well. (this is electrically the same, just the other end of the short cable) Fuselink 'J' goes in the bin, but the hot stud of the starter relay can be crowded depending on how many circuits you have in your truck. On my truck I elected to go for the Megafuse terminal. Alternator is ordered... Hopefully it's a good fit. The seller had two. Here's a link for the listing if anyone wants the other one... It's listed at $70. I put it on my watchlist and a day later they offered it at $60. I counteroffered them $50 and they counter-countered $55 which I accepted, plus $4.95 for uncle Sam made it $59.95. Silly me lost a day to save $5 and hurt my chances it makes it in time to be installed on my long weekend. Sometimes even I have to admit I'm a cheapskate! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirkware Posted August 31, 2023 Author Share Posted August 31, 2023 I haven't bought it yet. I just submitted an offer it. It's a 130a. I suppose the 95a probably would be sufficient, but who knows if I'll ever do something to this truck that needs more power. Should I need to plan for a two belt pulley, or just see how it goes and upgrade if I find I need it? As of right now, I don't have much planned that should add much draw. Something I just thought about...should I be able to put the pully from the old alternator on this one, or will I need a different size? Just trying to figure out if I need to get one ordered. They look much more pricey from the local stores vs online...I've seen $50 from Advance Auto vs $15 from Summit. That's crazy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 31, 2023 Share Posted August 31, 2023 Something I just thought about...should I be able to put the pully from the old alternator on this one, or will I need a different size? Just trying to figure out if I need to get one ordered. They look much more pricey from the local stores vs online...I've seen $50 from Advance Auto vs $15 from Summit. That's crazy! 17mm shaft size is the same. Nut comes right off with an impact. One thing of note is that you may need a thin spacer behind your V-belt pulley so it doesn't rub the 3G housing. I'm not sure why this isn't better spelled out in the instructions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirkware Posted August 31, 2023 Author Share Posted August 31, 2023 17mm shaft size is the same. Nut comes right off with an impact. One thing of note is that you may need a thin spacer behind your V-belt pulley so it doesn't rub the 3G housing. I'm not sure why this isn't better spelled out in the instructions. Perfect, thanks! I saw mention of the spacer somewhere. One of the YouTube videos I watched mentioned it but he ended up not needing it. Haven't found a really good Bullnose specific 2g to 3g upgrade video, so I may try to make one. If I do, I'll be sure to promote Gary's Garage Mahal as the source for the best Bullnose info. Specifically, I want to cover details of the wiring changes, shimming, bracket clearancing, and dealing with the ammeter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirkware Posted September 2, 2023 Author Share Posted September 2, 2023 While I'm waiting on my alternator to show up, thought I'd post some pictures of some repairs I made to the plastic that the AC controls mount to. I knew something was wrong as my blower would never turn off. I pulled the controls out to find that the plastic was broken, causing contacts not to contact. This explained the issues I was having: Used a small soldering iron to do some plastic welding: Found some more cracks... And did some more repairs... It ain't all that pretty, but it won't be seen. Hopefully it holds up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 2, 2023 Share Posted September 2, 2023 While I'm waiting on my alternator to show up, thought I'd post some pictures of some repairs I made to the plastic that the AC controls mount to. I knew something was wrong as my blower would never turn off. I pulled the controls out to find that the plastic was broken, causing contacts not to contact. This explained the issues I was having: Used a small soldering iron to do some plastic welding: Found some more cracks... And did some more repairs... It ain't all that pretty, but it won't be seen. Hopefully it holds up. Yikes! No wonder that the control wouldn't turn off. And you are right, it isn't going to be seen. Hope it holds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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