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Muminvaters F250 scale 1:13


muminvater

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LOL, you are a prangster.... :nabble_anim_handshake:

of course a metal printer is better. Metal has a molecular network, plastics molecular chains. You can not compare. A metal print has about 96% strenght of the origin part, a printed plastic part is far away cause it is not possible to build the chains.

In the filament process a small point is melted on, the surrounded area is already too cold to build the chains with th new dot.

You can say:is necessary? OK, it depends on, I would answer. Your product should have a certain strenght, I think. It would be a pitty, you´re working at the model, the body between your knees and - KKRRKS - it breaks in pieces. Only because of the f...ing physics :nabble_anim_crazy:

Tobias,

I used to work for Remington Arms, we regularly concepted metal parts on the DLMS machine. You are right, if I recall correctly, the strength properties ar 96%, and you can normalize and get a little bit more strength out, but you start a little bit of deformation. So you need to plan for machining later. But for a truck model, no heat treating needed.

I might be able to pull a string or two and get a metal body printed......have to wait and see until you are done with the model.

 

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Tobias,

I used to work for Remington Arms, we regularly concepted metal parts on the DLMS machine. You are right, if I recall correctly, the strength properties ar 96%, and you can normalize and get a little bit more strength out, but you start a little bit of deformation. So you need to plan for machining later. But for a truck model, no heat treating needed.

I might be able to pull a string or two and get a metal body printed......have to wait and see until you are done with the model.

Next spring, April or May, depending on weather - must be warm enough - I will be finished for coating.

So the data will be on current status then.

:nabble_anim_working:

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jep, it is a Pennsylvania license plate. This was my submission:

The covered areas are too small in 1:13, so you can´t recognize it.

I forget to post the Highlights on the roll bar and the cleaned up modul plate viewed from the upper side.

moin moin,

the new turn signal lever is done. It starts with an open heart surgery

Herz-OP_.jpg.b91bacb323a7e783e8e57c0dfc07e7e5.jpg

Lenkstock_01.jpg.87b71ee0f669f46d3b98c7d4ec5583d7.jpg

1= isolation tube

2= ignition lock

3= gear shift

4= segment disc 1

5= segment disc 2

6= segment disc 3

7= operation handle

8= turnsignal lever

9= copper contact plates

10= brass thread bushes

11= notch

12= brass headless screw with soldered cable

Lenkstock_05.jpg.9e5cb1f02f9638b0fae54e69ff4b4af7.jpg

Lenkstock_06.jpg.d9a1708b02286e82105312a46824c3c3.jpg

Lenkstock_07.jpg.1354b20632cfc2f299497ca9c36ddc40.jpg

Lenkstock_09.jpg.390d68872089d441b97e3b44b0cf0227.jpg

Lenkstock_11.jpg.6ee72d6331e5211fc611595c68b96324.jpg

Lenkstock_13.jpg.97ad5ea1f5744d892d27abf70fcc4b13.jpg

Lenkstock_14.jpg.4db82a4b1d15f2a8130dd9a1408d636e.jpg

lever snaps in at 3 positions:

upper for right

middle for off

lower for left

Lenkstock.gif.a38e1ce94d1192a3af68585c8709ed45.gif

so, that is that...perhaps, so the model will, I can modify the wheelhouses this week.

greetings, :nabble_anim_working: Tobias

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moin moin,

the new turn signal lever is done. It starts with an open heart surgery

1= isolation tube

2= ignition lock

3= gear shift

4= segment disc 1

5= segment disc 2

6= segment disc 3

7= operation handle

8= turnsignal lever

9= copper contact plates

10= brass thread bushes

11= notch

12= brass headless screw with soldered cable

lever snaps in at 3 positions:

upper for right

middle for off

lower for left

so, that is that...perhaps, so the model will, I can modify the wheelhouses this week.

greetings, :nabble_anim_working: Tobias

You've made an excellent recovery from your switch misfortune. :nabble_smiley_good:

I'm always excited to see how your kitbashed truck is coming along!

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

moin moin,

the new turn signal lever is done. It starts with an open heart surgery

1= isolation tube

2= ignition lock

3= gear shift

4= segment disc 1

5= segment disc 2

6= segment disc 3

7= operation handle

8= turnsignal lever

9= copper contact plates

10= brass thread bushes

11= notch

12= brass headless screw with soldered cable

lever snaps in at 3 positions:

upper for right

middle for off

lower for left

so, that is that...perhaps, so the model will, I can modify the wheelhouses this week.

greetings, :nabble_anim_working: Tobias

hello guys,

where has the week gone?? :nabble_anim_confused:

I did several trifles and - wuusch - wednesday again :nabble_anim_crazy:

However, here is what let me be busy.

1st the antenna. Easy and quickly done.

Antenne_03.jpg.a8bae377f733dc6e332b56e820376990.jpg

Antenne_04.jpg.8f7870bf6878cc5f9a1c1a400f489df9.jpg

Antenne_05.jpg.55ca114713be32ffad488d867ce83448.jpg

2nd differential lock shift // hazard light lever in my case

Hebel_Warnblinker_01.jpg.dbabbe3c59735a4426bd597301827862.jpg

Schalthebel.jpg.4a273a09df065c266e030a0e882b07c0.jpg

the left plastic part was too weak, so I built one out of brass.

3rd retaining cable tailgate

Heckklappe_25.jpg.40a79ecb8914f525490779da4c33b25c.jpg

for the cable I took a 2mm EPDM rubber profile and crimped it into 2 selfmade eyelets. The rubber is on tension because when the tailgate is closed the clearence is not too large. So the rubber shrinks and fits in.

Heckklappe_28.jpg.e68ec4f45d86655185c84fe1d3ff28ee.jpg

Heckklappe_29.jpg.e3426d854e0408424fd0120d783c5174.jpg

at last the reinforcing seam on the hood.

Haube_Gen7_16.jpg.7c87a6bf0ee8d6a28f85dc509aada568.jpg

it bothered me for a long time but had no brilliant idea how to change it. Now the time had come :nabble_anim_handshake:

Haube_Gen7_18.jpg.2c10e2c7c1d63414dac042be51221f3b.jpg

Haube_Gen7_19.jpg.3fca0ee957268f7285ff2c21c7b503b7.jpg

clamped on my milling mashine, milled a staight notch and started the process of filling and sanding and filling and sanding and...

Haube_Gen7_20.jpg.805533504bc14a515de70829697e6d74.jpg

Haube_Gen7_21.jpg.72c1f9e52c9be0dad49f2fbe8de8fdab.jpg

Haube_Gen7_22.jpg.bafb86351c56eb68cb7e541eb96e04de.jpg

Haube_Gen7_23.jpg.7f6c10c5ae87497cdd03d79b8b69b501.jpg

the drawdown shows where I have to upgrade the my filling/sanding process. :nabble_smiley_whistling:

 

ctree.jpg.7517844a679591ba63d595dcc0dc73d1.jpg

:nabble_anim_working: so that´s it for today, wish you and your family a merry christmas, Tobias

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hello guys,

where has the week gone?? :nabble_anim_confused:

I did several trifles and - wuusch - wednesday again :nabble_anim_crazy:

However, here is what let me be busy.

1st the antenna. Easy and quickly done.

2nd differential lock shift // hazard light lever in my case

the left plastic part was too weak, so I built one out of brass.

3rd retaining cable tailgate

for the cable I took a 2mm EPDM rubber profile and crimped it into 2 selfmade eyelets. The rubber is on tension because when the tailgate is closed the clearence is not too large. So the rubber shrinks and fits in.

at last the reinforcing seam on the hood.

it bothered me for a long time but had no brilliant idea how to change it. Now the time had come :nabble_anim_handshake:

clamped on my milling mashine, milled a staight notch and started the process of filling and sanding and filling and sanding and...

the drawdown shows where I have to upgrade the my filling/sanding process. :nabble_smiley_whistling:

 

:nabble_anim_working: so that´s it for today, wish you and your family a merry christmas, Tobias

Tobias - Merry Christmas!

Your hood looks wonderful! The line is crisp and straight.

And the shift lever looks like it belongs. Plus the tailgate cables look the part.

But the antenna looks like it is too long. Maybe I can get to the shop and measure mine tomorrow, but yours just looks like it goes too high above the cab. :nabble_thinking-26_orig:

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Tobias - Merry Christmas!

Your hood looks wonderful! The line is crisp and straight.

And the shift lever looks like it belongs. Plus the tailgate cables look the part.

But the antenna looks like it is too long. Maybe I can get to the shop and measure mine tomorrow, but yours just looks like it goes too high above the cab. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/thinking-26_orig.jpg

Hi Gary,

hope you you are in quite good condition after these days... http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/laughing-25-x-25_orig.gif

To measure a origin antenna is good idea.

Meanwhile I started the wheelhouse modification.

Radausschnitt_01.jpg.34a1b6ce6f7ae8a21f0c2d206c2413d8.jpg

Radausschnitt_03.jpg.75aaa85a30aa7198454886215e3a105d.jpg

remove the trim and ginding away the fender skirt.

insert new plate and deform it with a hair dryer.

the sketched contour will be cutted out and a greetings Tobias

 

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Hi Gary,

hope you you are in quite good condition after these days... :nabble_laughing-25-x-25_orig:

To measure a origin antenna is good idea.

Meanwhile I started the wheelhouse modification.

remove the trim and ginding away the fender skirt.

insert new plate and deform it with a hair dryer.

the sketched contour will be cutted out and a greetings Tobias

We are doing well, Tobias. Hope you are also.

I forgot to measure the antenna, but will do so in a bit.

And the wheelhouse mods will make a big difference. :nabble_smiley_good:

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We are doing well, Tobias. Hope you are also.

I forgot to measure the antenna, but will do so in a bit.

And the wheelhouse mods will make a big difference. :nabble_smiley_good:

Tobias - The antenna is 33" long, but is sitting on a 1/4" thick base. And it tapers from .150" to .100" with a .250" ball on the end.

Hope that helps.

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