Periwinkle Posted July 11, 2023 Author Share Posted July 11, 2023 Our friends from Georgia call it "patina" not rust, soap and water will wash that off. (Zep Heavy-Duty Citrus Degreaser) works well. As far as wheels; monitor local "market place", multiple wheels always come up for sale, but it depends on what you want and it is subjective to your application. Caps are pretty mangled, decided to buy new ones but didn't realize it was all just gunk, came right off with the wire wheel out of curiosity. Also, I tried shooting you an email based on the forum email option but it didn't seem to work. Will try again now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 11, 2023 Share Posted July 11, 2023 Onions. Couldn't find as much time as I would have liked, as we had family from Poland in town. Still able to get some work done but ran into quite a few issues, but that's part of the fun. Started with the front calipers because I figured that would be the easy part. The calipers were in rough shape and were leaking fluid so I figured I might try my hand at a rebuild but the bleed screw seems fused to the caliper. I may need to buy remanufactured calipers and cut my losses as the parts aren't expensive. The rotors are very thin on one side as well, so I figure probably best to replace the rotors and hubs. This has turned into a full replacement so I'm about to purchase inner and outer bearings, bearing seal, hub and rotor assembly, and calipers to go with my naïve purchase of pads and lines thinking this would be a small project. Couple of ladybugs on the hub and the pads were definitely salvageable http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/sarcastic-23_orig.gif Save the front for another day when parts come in and moved on to the rear. Drums came off relatively easily; hoping I can reuse the drums and be cheap for now based on my increased front end work. Everything went smoothly for the disassembly. Looks like I have an issue with a leak from the flarenut to the new wheel cylinder. I am not sure if the metal brake line flare is the issue or the actual flarenut is the issue, but I'm not exactly sure where to go from here. Lastly, I bought all new brake adjuster hardware and I'm glad I did as the cable was broken and mechanisms shot. I figure it likely makes sense to also replace the brake lines from the parking brake pedal to the assemblies but I'm a bit confused on which ones to get. As I understand it, there is a line from the pedal to the connecting link. Then there is a line to each of the rear assemblies, so three lines total. Struggling to confirm based on the documentation which ones I truly need. Could anyone help me understand how to translate the part numbers or information in the brakes section into parts on Rock Auto? From what I can tell I would need: E4TZ 2A635-G E0TZ 2A635-K No idea on the front, maybe E7TZ 2853-A? (133" wheelbase) I just know the Fords get wonky with parts by year so I want to make sure I don't buy and ship the wrong part, gets pricey getting stuff up to here. EDIT: Found the OEM parts numbers, just had to click the specific parts on RockAuto and look to the bottom. Just to confirm though, do the part numbers above look correct? I'm about ready to pull the trigger now that I have that figured out. Thanks everyone! I've had to really crank down on some brake fittings to keep them from leaking. And you want to be using a flare wrench to do that. As for the part numbers, I think this is what you are looking for: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Periwinkle Posted July 19, 2023 Author Share Posted July 19, 2023 I've had to really crank down on some brake fittings to keep them from leaking. And you want to be using a flare wrench to do that. As for the part numbers, I think this is what you are looking for: Thanks Gary, ended up getting everything ordered. Also received the sheet metal from Tabco last week so hopefully able to work on laying things out this weekend. Definitely nervous to start cutting but I still need to do some practice welding prior to then anyways. Tabco shipping was surprisingly quick once the order was finally ready and processed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dionden Posted July 19, 2023 Share Posted July 19, 2023 Thanks Gary, ended up getting everything ordered. Also received the sheet metal from Tabco last week so hopefully able to work on laying things out this weekend. Definitely nervous to start cutting but I still need to do some practice welding prior to then anyways. Tabco shipping was surprisingly quick once the order was finally ready and processed. I will be watching your project carefully. I just picked an 86 Flareside, the flareside bed was just too good to pass on. But, there is always a "but"; the floor mats which are new are the floor and I don't dare take out the seat! My choices are to do what you are doing or look for a used cab from the south. The problem I see with doing the later is how many standard cabs without air conditioning will be down there. periwinkle send me an email: my (username)@gmail.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Periwinkle Posted July 20, 2023 Author Share Posted July 20, 2023 I will be watching your project carefully. I just picked an 86 Flareside, the flareside bed was just too good to pass on. But, there is always a "but"; the floor mats which are new are the floor and I don't dare take out the seat! My choices are to do what you are doing or look for a used cab from the south. The problem I see with doing the later is how many standard cabs without air conditioning will be down there. periwinkle send me an email: my (username)@gmail.com Email sent! I'm super intimidated with getting started on the metalwork but at the end of the day, the floors won't be visible so hopefully I can't botch it too bad. Still need to snag some welding gas for the MIG welder and get practicing first. Also have a bunch more brake parts on the way, should be here this weekend including bearings, parking brake cables, new calipers, new hubs and rotors, and some bits and pieces that are just banged up and would make sense to replace while I have everything apart. I'm also starting to think about if I will be able to properly clean up and coat the frame and undercarriage for a bit of rustproofing insurance. Won't be driving this in the winter anyways but as you know, it's a mess up here even for months after winter. Always surprising how long the salt sticks around on the roads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dionden Posted July 20, 2023 Share Posted July 20, 2023 Email sent! I'm super intimidated with getting started on the metalwork but at the end of the day, the floors won't be visible so hopefully I can't botch it too bad. Still need to snag some welding gas for the MIG welder and get practicing first. Also have a bunch more brake parts on the way, should be here this weekend including bearings, parking brake cables, new calipers, new hubs and rotors, and some bits and pieces that are just banged up and would make sense to replace while I have everything apart. I'm also starting to think about if I will be able to properly clean up and coat the frame and undercarriage for a bit of rustproofing insurance. Won't be driving this in the winter anyways but as you know, it's a mess up here even for months after winter. Always surprising how long the salt sticks around on the roads. It is easy cutting the rusted metal out, a few things to consider: - are the floors being removed at the pinch weld (firewall to floor) if so it would be a lot easier to access the spot welds at the firewall from the engine compartment side rather than from underneath. Welding the new floors in would put you in a comfortable position. Welding on your back is no fun. Unless you have a hoist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myrl883 Posted October 20, 2023 Share Posted October 20, 2023 It is easy cutting the rusted metal out, a few things to consider: - are the floors being removed at the pinch weld (firewall to floor) if so it would be a lot easier to access the spot welds at the firewall from the engine compartment side rather than from underneath. Welding the new floors in would put you in a comfortable position. Welding on your back is no fun. Unless you have a hoist. It's going to look amazing when you get it done. You guys up north have more patience and talent than I. Where I live, we'd scrap a truck with that much rust. I'm guilty of doing it to many... Keep up the good work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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