ArdWrknTrk Posted August 25, 2022 Share Posted August 25, 2022 if the end connector can be easily disassembled and the pins (male or female) aren't too big, a piece of heat shrink can be slid over the bad section The guy who will invent a kind of "split" shrinkable sleeve that can be installed anywhere along a damaged wire will be rich. Any idea my friends? I sometimes use the self fusing silicone tape. You need to keep tension and it may have trouble sticking to an oil soaked harness but it become monolithic. It's also great for creating strain relief 'tails' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted August 25, 2022 Share Posted August 25, 2022 Thanks for the feedback, Bill. I have the trouble area stripped of the petrified (I like that) wrap. All the wires are chafed in the same area. I assume vibration has done this over the last 40-ish years... I really don't want to try and take the whole harness out of the truck at this point - I have it almost put together. If I have to, I have to, but fingers crossed. There is enough room for me to splice in new wire and re-wrap that area. I like the friction tape idea, this stuff seems to come well-recommended: https://a.co/d/gRW7aJE FWIW, the rest of the harness looks ok. It makes sense that this would be the area that would fail as there wasn't strain relief and is right next to the passenger side of the engine block. Here are some better picture areas after removing the cover. Shorts galore! And not in a good summer way. That does look like an excellent friction tape. I usually get mine (when they have it) from the Ace Hardware here. I see in one of your pictures a factory splice on what looks to be black wires. Those usually are fine, they seem to be spot welded together. I don't know what Ford was using for insulation on their wiring in the mid 1980s, but I have seen a lot of them where the insulation was just crumbling and falling off the wires. The liquid insulation might be an excellent solution, I have never used it, but I have lots of salvaged lengths of various color and size wire in neat little rolls so I can most times match the OEM color and size. Good luck with the repairs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted August 25, 2022 Author Share Posted August 25, 2022 That does look like an excellent friction tape. I usually get mine (when they have it) from the Ace Hardware here. I see in one of your pictures a factory splice on what looks to be black wires. Those usually are fine, they seem to be spot welded together. I don't know what Ford was using for insulation on their wiring in the mid 1980s, but I have seen a lot of them where the insulation was just crumbling and falling off the wires. The liquid insulation might be an excellent solution, I have never used it, but I have lots of salvaged lengths of various color and size wire in neat little rolls so I can most times match the OEM color and size. Good luck with the repairs. Thanks, gathering equipment, wiring, and fortitude. Not necessarily in that order. The existing wire looks to be either 16 or 18 gauge. It looks more like 18. Would either work well, or does anyone have experience here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 25, 2022 Share Posted August 25, 2022 Thanks, gathering equipment, wiring, and fortitude. Not necessarily in that order. The existing wire looks to be either 16 or 18 gauge. It looks more like 18. Would either work well, or does anyone have experience here? I think it is 18, but 16 will work. If in doubt cut into one of yours and compare to a known size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted August 25, 2022 Author Share Posted August 25, 2022 I think it is 18, but 16 will work. If in doubt cut into one of yours and compare to a known size. Yep, will do! Just wanted to check with you all, I'm trying to order stuff before I cut into anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted September 1, 2022 Author Share Posted September 1, 2022 Yep, will do! Just wanted to check with you all, I'm trying to order stuff before I cut into anything. I've started to splice the good wire onto the connectors, it's 18 gauge and my soldering seems to be going well. Checking the continuity with my DVM as I go. I ran into this connector - its clear the retaining clip has been snapped off more than once, and the wires are damaged going into the connector. I'd like to replace it. From the connectors catalog on this site, it looks like WPT-597 but its hard to be sure, especially since Googling that part number indicates it wasn't used until 1992 for interior??? This connector is next to the carb - I think for the bowl vent solenoid? I haven' been able to find the connector number in the EVTM or Parts Catalog, I have probably missed it. In the EVTM I'm pretty sure it is C788. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 1, 2022 Share Posted September 1, 2022 I've started to splice the good wire onto the connectors, it's 18 gauge and my soldering seems to be going well. Checking the continuity with my DVM as I go. I ran into this connector - its clear the retaining clip has been snapped off more than once, and the wires are damaged going into the connector. I'd like to replace it. From the connectors catalog on this site, it looks like WPT-597 but its hard to be sure, especially since Googling that part number indicates it wasn't used until 1992 for interior??? This connector is next to the carb - I think for the bowl vent solenoid? I haven' been able to find the connector number in the EVTM or Parts Catalog, I have probably missed it. In the EVTM I'm pretty sure it is C788. I wish I could help, but I don't think I have any harnii that have that connector. And it sure is hard to tell from that catalog. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted September 1, 2022 Author Share Posted September 1, 2022 I wish I could help, but I don't think I have any harnii that have that connector. And it sure is hard to tell from that catalog. Appreciate it! I snipped the zip tie that was holding the wiring to the part so I could get a look at the engineering number. E4AE-9C915-CA (Vapor Canister Purge Valve) Now maybe I can figure out the part number for the male connector now that I have this knowledge... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted September 1, 2022 Author Share Posted September 1, 2022 Appreciate it! I snipped the zip tie that was holding the wiring to the part so I could get a look at the engineering number. E4AE-9C915-CA (Vapor Canister Purge Valve) Now maybe I can figure out the part number for the male connector now that I have this knowledge... Well no leads really... I found a WPT-597 on eBay for $15. (Much cheaper than on Amazon, FYI). It sure looks like it. I guess I have spent more on things that haven't worked. If I get really desperate I suppose I can just put blade connectors on the wires and seal the connection somehow but that's not really how I intend to do things... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted September 2, 2022 Share Posted September 2, 2022 Well no leads really... I found a WPT-597 on eBay for $15. (Much cheaper than on Amazon, FYI). It sure looks like it. I guess I have spent more on things that haven't worked. If I get really desperate I suppose I can just put blade connectors on the wires and seal the connection somehow but that's not really how I intend to do things... I have a number of large plastic jars full of various connector shells that I have salvaged and lots of wiring same way. I can probably look over the weekend, but, I will be loading up Friday to do a Pick-n-Pull run on Saturday, so it will be Sunday or Monday before I can get too them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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