She just kept cranking

[El Chapo]

So I’m having an issue where I was working on my instrument panel around the column area and after I put everything back together again (so I thought) I started the engine to move it back into the garage but when I turned the key off the engine kinda stayed running then it was just cranking over and over like crazy, I disconnected the battery. I have a new solenoid and starter. I went back in and removed the trim around the column lowered the column to inspect and the column switch which has the rod connected to the ignition switch. The column switch appears ok I can move it all the way over and it springs back so to me it works. The rod moves freely as well as the key. Every time I touched the battery cable to the battery it cranks!! I replaced the so I replaced the solenoid again the one next to the battery and now nothing. No lights no power no crank.

Battery being charged now but seemed to at 12v. Stumped I’ll check fuses and make sure solenoid is installed correctly. Solenoid that was removed rattles when shook. So yeah what the …!

[ArdWrknTrk]

I would think that your old fender mounted starter relay welded the contacts closed.

I don't think they should rattle. Have you tried testing for continuity across the lugs?

Re: correct wiring.

Small blue/red push-on connector to the (S) terminal.

Starter cable to one lug.

Everything else to the other lug.

There were some Bullnose that used a fuselink attached to the (I) terminal, providing full voltage to the fuel pump but I don't think you have that.

[El Chapo]

I would think that your old fender mounted starter relay welded the contacts closed.

I don't think they should rattle. Have you tried testing for continuity across the lugs?

Re: correct wiring.

Small blue/red push-on connector to the (S) terminal.

Starter cable to one lug.

Everything else to the other lug.

There were some Bullnose that used a fuselink attached to the (I) terminal, providing full voltage to the fuel pump but I don't think you have that.

Thx you.. still no power vehicle is completely dead. New Solenoid and wires / cables are set up correctly.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thx you.. still no power vehicle is completely dead. New Solenoid and wires / cables are set up correctly.

Here is the page from the EVTM.

You probably need to start with fuselink J, as it is the one thing common to both the ignition switch and the light switch.

Edit: probably check that connector 610 is fully seated.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Here is the page from the EVTM.

You probably need to start with fuselink J, as it is the one thing common to both the ignition switch and the light switch.

Edit: probably check that connector 610 is fully seated.

The inside the cab section, and the end of chapter wiring walkthrough if you need it.

[El Chapo]

I would think that your old fender mounted starter relay welded the contacts closed.

I don't think they should rattle. Have you tried testing for continuity across the lugs?

Re: correct wiring.

Small blue/red push-on connector to the (S) terminal.

Starter cable to one lug.

Everything else to the other lug.

There were some Bullnose that used a fuselink attached to the (I) terminal, providing full voltage to the fuel pump but I don't think you have that.

Great that will be tomorrow’s project

Much appreciated

[El Chapo]

The inside the cab section, and the end of chapter wiring walkthrough if you need it.

Thank you. I did have a bad ignition switch after all which welded the solenoid. She runs after replacing both of these parts. Thanks it’s so great a have resource like this with awesome folks that are willing to help each other out. Very thankful.

Peace.

[Gary Lewis]

Thank you. I did have a bad ignition switch after all which welded the solenoid. She runs after replacing both of these parts. Thanks it’s so great a have resource like this with awesome folks that are willing to help each other out. Very thankful.

Peace.

Glad you got it fixed.

Yep, Jim is quite knowledgeable. As are most of the people on here.