Gary Lewis Posted October 5, 2022 Share Posted October 5, 2022 Like I said two days ago, I think he needs to be looking at the Dark Green /Yellow Dot wire (circuit 11) That's the one coming from the coil to the ignition module. I agree. And as you pointed out, the easiest way to check continuity on that circuit is with the coil disconnected as it will make readings on a VOM questionable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmchuck Posted October 6, 2022 Author Share Posted October 6, 2022 I agree. And as you pointed out, the easiest way to check continuity on that circuit is with the coil disconnected as it will make readings on a VOM questionable. Thanks Jim and Gary, I looked at it again after getting off work. You are correct the wires I am looking for are the black with light green dots and the green with yellow. I was off on the continuity of the black/green stripe wire yesterday. That was in position 1 of the cluster connector, I instead found a black with green dot wire in position 12 and confirmed continuity. too many black/green combos to the cluster, that's my excuse anyway:nabble_anim_crazy: I also validated continuity on the dark green/yellow wire all the way to the coil with the horseshoe disconnected. So basically, it appears the wiring checks out. I'll put the cluster back in tomorrow to see if taking everything apart and cleaning again made a difference and it miraculously started working, a fella can dream! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmchuck Posted October 8, 2022 Author Share Posted October 8, 2022 Thanks Jim and Gary, I looked at it again after getting off work. You are correct the wires I am looking for are the black with light green dots and the green with yellow. I was off on the continuity of the black/green stripe wire yesterday. That was in position 1 of the cluster connector, I instead found a black with green dot wire in position 12 and confirmed continuity. too many black/green combos to the cluster, that's my excuse anyway:nabble_anim_crazy: I also validated continuity on the dark green/yellow wire all the way to the coil with the horseshoe disconnected. So basically, it appears the wiring checks out. I'll put the cluster back in tomorrow to see if taking everything apart and cleaning again made a difference and it miraculously started working, a fella can dream! I got the tach working!! After taking the cluster in and out many times, removing the tach and looking at it multiple times, cleaning the brown goo from the circuit board more than once and confirming every electrical feed to the tach, I managed to figure out the problem. Turns out the ground between the tach and the circuit board was the problem. There are two small retainers on the brass pegs that mount everything together that hold the whole thing tight. These were a bit loose and the brass peg that touches the circuit board for the ground was pulling away when I tightened the brass nuts from the tach to the plastic housing. Since this is hidden once the plastic housing is on, it was not obvious and I had to figure it out with trial and error. I laid on more solder on where the brass leg for the ground touched the circuit board, put it back together for what seemed to be the 20th time and it worked! Small, hard won victory, which made my day... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 8, 2022 Share Posted October 8, 2022 I got the tach working!! After taking the cluster in and out many times, removing the tach and looking at it multiple times, cleaning the brown goo from the circuit board more than once and confirming every electrical feed to the tach, I managed to figure out the problem. Turns out the ground between the tach and the circuit board was the problem. There are two small retainers on the brass pegs that mount everything together that hold the whole thing tight. These were a bit loose and the brass peg that touches the circuit board for the ground was pulling away when I tightened the brass nuts from the tach to the plastic housing. Since this is hidden once the plastic housing is on, it was not obvious and I had to figure it out with trial and error. I laid on more solder on where the brass leg for the ground touched the circuit board, put it back together for what seemed to be the 20th time and it worked! Small, hard won victory, which made my day... Congratulations!!!! Those are the best victories! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 8, 2022 Share Posted October 8, 2022 I got the tach working!! After taking the cluster in and out many times, removing the tach and looking at it multiple times, cleaning the brown goo from the circuit board more than once and confirming every electrical feed to the tach, I managed to figure out the problem. Turns out the ground between the tach and the circuit board was the problem. There are two small retainers on the brass pegs that mount everything together that hold the whole thing tight. These were a bit loose and the brass peg that touches the circuit board for the ground was pulling away when I tightened the brass nuts from the tach to the plastic housing. Since this is hidden once the plastic housing is on, it was not obvious and I had to figure it out with trial and error. I laid on more solder on where the brass leg for the ground touched the circuit board, put it back together for what seemed to be the 20th time and it worked! Small, hard won victory, which made my day... Perseverance pays off!!! It may not count as a miracle but you've got the tach working. And better yet you've proven out everything from the coil to the distributor and the module. 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmchuck Posted October 10, 2022 Author Share Posted October 10, 2022 Congratulations!!!! Those are the best victories! Spent some time getting the valve covers sealed up this weekend, nice to get that finished up. For an experiment, I swapped the wheels and tires with my old bronco. I wanted to see the difference an 8" rim makes, and the rims are nearly identical eagle alloys. The bronco has 16" rims with 305 75 16 tires, the flareside has 33 1250 15's. The tires are basically the same size, so this was an easy swap. I actually like the narrower rims on the truck, and the 10" rims look great on the bronco. The narower rims on the flareside tuck the tires into the fenders a little better which should keep it a little cleaner, at least that's my theory. There are so many more tire size options with the 16" rims that I think I'll keep them on the truck in the event I pull some of the lift out of it. Here are a couple photos to show the results. 10" wide rims: 8" wide rims: Thanks, and let me know what you think of the change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 10, 2022 Share Posted October 10, 2022 Spent some time getting the valve covers sealed up this weekend, nice to get that finished up. For an experiment, I swapped the wheels and tires with my old bronco. I wanted to see the difference an 8" rim makes, and the rims are nearly identical eagle alloys. The bronco has 16" rims with 305 75 16 tires, the flareside has 33 1250 15's. The tires are basically the same size, so this was an easy swap. I actually like the narrower rims on the truck, and the 10" rims look great on the bronco. The narower rims on the flareside tuck the tires into the fenders a little better which should keep it a little cleaner, at least that's my theory. There are so many more tire size options with the 16" rims that I think I'll keep them on the truck in the event I pull some of the lift out of it. Here are a couple photos to show the results. 10" wide rims: 8" wide rims: Thanks, and let me know what you think of the change. Looooking goooood! (If you were a fan of '70's sitcoms you might get that) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 10, 2022 Share Posted October 10, 2022 Spent some time getting the valve covers sealed up this weekend, nice to get that finished up. For an experiment, I swapped the wheels and tires with my old bronco. I wanted to see the difference an 8" rim makes, and the rims are nearly identical eagle alloys. The bronco has 16" rims with 305 75 16 tires, the flareside has 33 1250 15's. The tires are basically the same size, so this was an easy swap. I actually like the narrower rims on the truck, and the 10" rims look great on the bronco. The narower rims on the flareside tuck the tires into the fenders a little better which should keep it a little cleaner, at least that's my theory. There are so many more tire size options with the 16" rims that I think I'll keep them on the truck in the event I pull some of the lift out of it. Here are a couple photos to show the results. 10" wide rims: 8" wide rims: Thanks, and let me know what you think of the change. I think I like the narrower wheels on the Flareside. To me a Flareside is more of a street truck than a Bronco, so mentally I expect to see narrower tires and wheels on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted October 10, 2022 Share Posted October 10, 2022 I think I like the narrower wheels on the Flareside. To me a Flareside is more of a street truck than a Bronco, so mentally I expect to see narrower tires and wheels on them. I like both! Chico and the man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted October 10, 2022 Share Posted October 10, 2022 Spent some time getting the valve covers sealed up this weekend, nice to get that finished up. For an experiment, I swapped the wheels and tires with my old bronco. I wanted to see the difference an 8" rim makes, and the rims are nearly identical eagle alloys. The bronco has 16" rims with 305 75 16 tires, the flareside has 33 1250 15's. The tires are basically the same size, so this was an easy swap. I actually like the narrower rims on the truck, and the 10" rims look great on the bronco. The narower rims on the flareside tuck the tires into the fenders a little better which should keep it a little cleaner, at least that's my theory. There are so many more tire size options with the 16" rims that I think I'll keep them on the truck in the event I pull some of the lift out of it. Here are a couple photos to show the results. 10" wide rims: 8" wide rims: Thanks, and let me know what you think of the change. I prefer the fat 10's, but they both look good! I may have asked before, but is that a Jeepster Commando in the background?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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