nmchuck Posted February 18, 2023 Author Share Posted February 18, 2023 look closely in the last diagram posted. part number ww-98-hm is a duplex bolt that threads through the front shock mount then the radius arm into the ttb housing. the threads are only about 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" long and it goes under the spring seat. my concern is why do I see so much of the top of this bolt if it is not an aftermarket piece or installed incorrectly. I fear that it may be installed holding the original spring seat also which weakens it tremendously by holding only on the end of the threads. Mat, I definitely agree, if the installers used the original studs/bolts, there is a potential of catastrophic failure. I googled lift spacers for our rigs last night, there are some still available. They come with an extension bolt to install. That being said, my plan is to disassemble and remove these spacers and see if this improves the ability to get the alignment to spec. I will have to see how the rear lift blocks and ride height looks after I pull the spacers out. The truck sits nearly level now, so I anticipate needing to address that at some point too. I truly appreciate your help, I absolutely think this site and the members are fantastic! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted February 18, 2023 Share Posted February 18, 2023 Mat, I definitely agree, if the installers used the original studs/bolts, there is a potential of catastrophic failure. I googled lift spacers for our rigs last night, there are some still available. They come with an extension bolt to install. That being said, my plan is to disassemble and remove these spacers and see if this improves the ability to get the alignment to spec. I will have to see how the rear lift blocks and ride height looks after I pull the spacers out. The truck sits nearly level now, so I anticipate needing to address that at some point too. I truly appreciate your help, I absolutely think this site and the members are fantastic! very good. the one thing that could show up in this is that if it has an extended length bolt for the added spacers then it may be far too long to go back in place without the spacers without interfering with the axle. that means you may need to replace them if you are not comfortable cutting and beveling them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmchuck Posted February 19, 2023 Author Share Posted February 19, 2023 very good. the one thing that could show up in this is that if it has an extended length bolt for the added spacers then it may be far too long to go back in place without the spacers without interfering with the axle. that means you may need to replace them if you are not comfortable cutting and beveling them. Mat and Rembrandt were correct! I removed two obvious homemade spacers today that were 11/2” long. They were definitely built solid, but really messed with the front end geometry. Dropped the font to what seems about right for a 4”lift. With any luck I can now get this rig into alignment. Thanks for the help figuring this out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 19, 2023 Share Posted February 19, 2023 Mat and Rembrandt were correct! I removed two obvious homemade spacers today that were 11/2” long. They were definitely built solid, but really messed with the front end geometry. Dropped the font to what seems about right for a 4”lift. With any luck I can now get this rig into alignment. Thanks for the help figuring this out! Well done guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted February 19, 2023 Share Posted February 19, 2023 Mat and Rembrandt were correct! I removed two obvious homemade spacers today that were 11/2” long. They were definitely built solid, but really messed with the front end geometry. Dropped the font to what seems about right for a 4”lift. With any luck I can now get this rig into alignment. Thanks for the help figuring this out! please tell us the details of the bolt. don't leave me hangin bro! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmchuck Posted February 20, 2023 Author Share Posted February 20, 2023 please tell us the details of the bolt. don't leave me hangin bro! Sorry about the Mat! I should have snapped a photo while apart, but was in the zone... The bolt was very long to accommodate for the spacer, with a large nut on top. I looked inside of the axle housing and there were threads showing beyond the nut in there. It was kind of close to the axle, but I figured it was a solid one piece stud/bolt. I may regret not disassembling it to know for certainty, but I didn't want to struggle with double nutting the bolt to get it off. So I now have a very long bolt, I just ran down the nut to tighten it all back up. Thought about trimming it shorter but really saw no need as it does not interfere with the suspension, only the hassle of running the nut down a longer than necessary bolt. I have ordered new pivot bushings and radius arm bushings, I'll snap some photos when I tackle them to show the results of removing the spacers. here is a close up of the mounts now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted February 21, 2023 Share Posted February 21, 2023 Sorry about the Mat! I should have snapped a photo while apart, but was in the zone... The bolt was very long to accommodate for the spacer, with a large nut on top. I looked inside of the axle housing and there were threads showing beyond the nut in there. It was kind of close to the axle, but I figured it was a solid one piece stud/bolt. I may regret not disassembling it to know for certainty, but I didn't want to struggle with double nutting the bolt to get it off. So I now have a very long bolt, I just ran down the nut to tighten it all back up. Thought about trimming it shorter but really saw no need as it does not interfere with the suspension, only the hassle of running the nut down a longer than necessary bolt. I have ordered new pivot bushings and radius arm bushings, I'll snap some photos when I tackle them to show the results of removing the spacers. here is a close up of the mounts now. that will work. it hurts nothing where it is and as soon as you have all settled and running true reach in there with a skinny brush and coat it with anti-seize or grease at least. no sense in letting it get rusty. but im glad to see that it was done well at that point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmchuck Posted July 12, 2023 Author Share Posted July 12, 2023 that will work. it hurts nothing where it is and as soon as you have all settled and running true reach in there with a skinny brush and coat it with anti-seize or grease at least. no sense in letting it get rusty. but im glad to see that it was done well at that point. It has been quite a while on any updates here. I have been driving the truck, although the summer heat has really slowed this down since I dont have working AC. I have been chasing vapor lock issues too, the truck really suffers when in excess of 100 degrees. Odd thing today was I decided to drive the 10 miles to work, started acting bad about two miles in, hardly able to exceed 40 MPH. About half mile from the office, it was like someone turned on a switch and the old 351M came to life! Not sure if there was a blockage in the tank or if an air pocket cleared out, but the truck ran great the rest of the day. Has anyone ever used the evap line for a vapor return? The charcoal canister is long gone, but the small diameter line is still there and plumbed to the tank. I'm considering getting a return style fuel filter and plumbing it to the line to vent the system back to the tank. the tank has a venting valve with a small orifice (from the evap system) that I think may help with the vapor lock as fuel will continuously cycle. Let me know your thoughts, this rig runs too well to leave at home in the heat! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 12, 2023 Share Posted July 12, 2023 It has been quite a while on any updates here. I have been driving the truck, although the summer heat has really slowed this down since I dont have working AC. I have been chasing vapor lock issues too, the truck really suffers when in excess of 100 degrees. Odd thing today was I decided to drive the 10 miles to work, started acting bad about two miles in, hardly able to exceed 40 MPH. About half mile from the office, it was like someone turned on a switch and the old 351M came to life! Not sure if there was a blockage in the tank or if an air pocket cleared out, but the truck ran great the rest of the day. Has anyone ever used the evap line for a vapor return? The charcoal canister is long gone, but the small diameter line is still there and plumbed to the tank. I'm considering getting a return style fuel filter and plumbing it to the line to vent the system back to the tank. the tank has a venting valve with a small orifice (from the evap system) that I think may help with the vapor lock as fuel will continuously cycle. Let me know your thoughts, this rig runs too well to leave at home in the heat! Do you mean a return-style fuel pressure regulator, not a filter? If so, then I think I understand. But wouldn't that cause the system to eventually have a vacuum on it as the fuel is removed with the engine running? We have a thread about that called "Fuel tank rupture caused by negative pressure????" You might read that to see what you think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted July 12, 2023 Share Posted July 12, 2023 It has been quite a while on any updates here. I have been driving the truck, although the summer heat has really slowed this down since I dont have working AC. I have been chasing vapor lock issues too, the truck really suffers when in excess of 100 degrees. Odd thing today was I decided to drive the 10 miles to work, started acting bad about two miles in, hardly able to exceed 40 MPH. About half mile from the office, it was like someone turned on a switch and the old 351M came to life! Not sure if there was a blockage in the tank or if an air pocket cleared out, but the truck ran great the rest of the day. Has anyone ever used the evap line for a vapor return? The charcoal canister is long gone, but the small diameter line is still there and plumbed to the tank. I'm considering getting a return style fuel filter and plumbing it to the line to vent the system back to the tank. the tank has a venting valve with a small orifice (from the evap system) that I think may help with the vapor lock as fuel will continuously cycle. Let me know your thoughts, this rig runs too well to leave at home in the heat! just getting back here after a while. trucks have kept me very busy. I too have a 351m that I have been resurrecting. I just replaced the rear tank as an assembly. it is full and still I'm not getting fuel. I will figure it out but there may be a similarity to yours. mine I started last winter and started with a new front tank assembly as usual. I hate fuel problems. and old fuel in a truck left neglected is about as bad as it gets. tank to carb reworked and runs beautifully. however, I leave this truck at the garage. and use it as a tow vehicle occasionally. my brother tells me "Hey I used your truck to go pick up a set of wheels for an f 350". as it turns out he did not remember that the rear tank was still junk. as it was delivered. so, he ran crud through an already cleared system. all good he says, it is full. he tells me this while towing me home haha. how can I blow up? he is towing me home! now I take responsibility overall due to having not replaced the rear tank by now, but it is truck number 9 on the list! not my first priority. and then there is the sign. taped over the tank switch etc. back to the point. the tank selector valve is a possibility. mine is getting voltage and I have blown compressed air backwards to remove a horrible amount of debris yet on the rear tank setting the fuel pump seems to be pulling a vacuum on the fuel line. meaning it is still clogged or the tank selector is stuck in one position. another possibility is a bad ground. getting voltage to it is not the same as through it to ground. after now replacing both tanks ,sending units, vent valves and their gaskets. ,hoses, filters and rebuilt the carb (twice now) there is only the selector valve as a possibility. oh and gas mpg sucks. tbe! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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