mat in tn Posted July 21, 2022 Share Posted July 21, 2022 On the other hand, I'm not running a carb at all now and loving it. I love this strategy. The debate is therefore closed! we all have our little idiosyncrasies! we all can agree on that. that makes for great discussions among the scientific. yet great arguments among the emotional. on the holley /eddy debate its just the same thing. no different than duraspark/ hei. the engineers see pros and cons in each and weigh their options. like choosing tires:nabble_thinking-26_orig: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 21, 2022 Share Posted July 21, 2022 we all have our little idiosyncrasies! we all can agree on that. that makes for great discussions among the scientific. yet great arguments among the emotional. on the holley /eddy debate its just the same thing. no different than duraspark/ hei. the engineers see pros and cons in each and weigh their options. like choosing tires:nabble_thinking-26_orig: Very much like choosing tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlas75 Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 Gary, So what brand of Carb do you favor? And here is a pic of the springs--3" One last spring question. Are the ends of your auxiliary spring rounded or square and is the end of the spring bent in any way or is the arch consistent from end to end? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmericanSavage Posted July 22, 2022 Author Share Posted July 22, 2022 Work on the bed continues slowly with mostly sanding the interior bed, and scuffing the outer. Some minor mud work also—nothing major. I am starting to think about putting the doors back on. I am dreading this. Anyone have any tips on actually reaching the bolts on the frame side? Tools to use? etc.? I tried a search here, and either I am doing it wrong, or there is not much on it. Perhaps Gary has learned advice? I am going to use my hoist to lift the doors, but the three holes on the cab are a bear to reach, so, saying I get it adjusted right, tightening those three bolts is an intimidation factor. Also, I traced the thread on bolts I took off the fender today as well. It is pulled out slightly on the pass side when I was working on the pass side floor pan. There are three—one behind the door panel, and two near the hood spring. They look never to have been removed. Rust was getting to one of them. tracing them cleaned up the threads, but I have regular (not tapered) bolts of same size. And these are metric bolts too? What?! Finally, the radio is in. It still needs adjusting for the dash, but, it works. I had to trace the bat wire to another spot in the cab—under the dash. The previous owners had the radio hotwired and bypassed into the fuse box. Not smart I’d say. I found a hot lead over the glove box in an unused plug, and use that for the bat wire to the radio. It works fantastic. Oh as promised, my Bush League screw job where the weld would not take. Maybe a MIG would have done better than my flux in this situation? Fuzzface? You know the answer to this? Tomorrow is revised date for epoxy IF all goes well. I filled a few bed pin holes with glass. As I plan on replacing the bed floor at some point, I did not do what needs be done and cut it out and replace with sheet metal. Part of the reason I am pausing on this (but will paint it anyway) is I want to find someplace that fabricates the inner rounded wheel wells. Mine are pretty beat up, but not rusted at least. If I tear into the interior bed next time, I want to do it right and thus, do it all. The outer bed is as you’ve seen near perfect now with my sheet metal replace. Cheers!  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmericanSavage Posted July 22, 2022 Author Share Posted July 22, 2022 One last spring question. Are the ends of your auxiliary spring rounded or square and is the end of the spring bent in any way or is the arch consistent from end to end? Hi Carl, Consistent. Main spring cluster rounded. Single top spring square. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmericanSavage Posted July 22, 2022 Author Share Posted July 22, 2022 we all have our little idiosyncrasies! we all can agree on that. that makes for great discussions among the scientific. yet great arguments among the emotional. on the holley /eddy debate its just the same thing. no different than duraspark/ hei. the engineers see pros and cons in each and weigh their options. like choosing tires:nabble_thinking-26_orig: The Carb debate had me thinking, not nec about the brand of carb, but the carb v. EFI debate. I like carbs because I can work on them. EFI is more efficient, however. As someone explained to me once: Carbs give an engine what it wants; EFI gives an engine what it needs. My first two carb rebuilds were my dad’s 4 brl Rochester—I confess to loving the sound it made when you kicked in the 4 barrel. I also loved his 1973 ¾ ton. Personal fact: My dad was a chevy guy, and at 15 when I bought a Ford hat, he had a coronary. Not really, but I always loved Ford. Seriously though, he was not happy with me. The first car I bought ON MY OWN, was a Ford Bronco. OK, so to throw a monkey wrench into this debate in ways perhaps not expected: what would survive, say, an EMP attack better? Electronic (EFI) or mechanical? The easy choice here is mechanical. Under the rare likelihood there is an EMP, the EFI’s would likely die for a period. Not carbs. Score one for old tech. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 Work on the bed continues slowly with mostly sanding the interior bed, and scuffing the outer. Some minor mud work also—nothing major. I am starting to think about putting the doors back on. I am dreading this. Anyone have any tips on actually reaching the bolts on the frame side? Tools to use? etc.? I tried a search here, and either I am doing it wrong, or there is not much on it. Perhaps Gary has learned advice? I am going to use my hoist to lift the doors, but the three holes on the cab are a bear to reach, so, saying I get it adjusted right, tightening those three bolts is an intimidation factor. Also, I traced the thread on bolts I took off the fender today as well. It is pulled out slightly on the pass side when I was working on the pass side floor pan. There are three—one behind the door panel, and two near the hood spring. They look never to have been removed. Rust was getting to one of them. tracing them cleaned up the threads, but I have regular (not tapered) bolts of same size. And these are metric bolts too? What?! Finally, the radio is in. It still needs adjusting for the dash, but, it works. I had to trace the bat wire to another spot in the cab—under the dash. The previous owners had the radio hotwired and bypassed into the fuse box. Not smart I’d say. I found a hot lead over the glove box in an unused plug, and use that for the bat wire to the radio. It works fantastic. Oh as promised, my Bush League screw job where the weld would not take. Maybe a MIG would have done better than my flux in this situation? Fuzzface? You know the answer to this? Tomorrow is revised date for epoxy IF all goes well. I filled a few bed pin holes with glass. As I plan on replacing the bed floor at some point, I did not do what needs be done and cut it out and replace with sheet metal. Part of the reason I am pausing on this (but will paint it anyway) is I want to find someplace that fabricates the inner rounded wheel wells. Mine are pretty beat up, but not rusted at least. If I tear into the interior bed next time, I want to do it right and thus, do it all. The outer bed is as you’ve seen near perfect now with my sheet metal replace. Cheers! Removing the fenders really helps, you can reach those three bolts easily. I’ve adjusted the door with the fender on with universal sockets, but had to be careful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmericanSavage Posted July 22, 2022 Author Share Posted July 22, 2022 Removing the fenders really helps, you can reach those three bolts easily. I’ve adjusted the door with the fender on with universal sockets, but had to be careful. Also, the Light manual suggests using this sealer on the plate of the hinge that makes contact with the cab--door sealer esb-m2g150-a Thoughts? When I pulled the doors, the rust behind the hinges was evident. The sealer must stop water and dirt from being trapped there. Mine had no sealer applied when I removed, which means when they shot the truck with red they did not reapply the sealer. Does anyone use something equivalent? BTW, Grumpin—thank you. And what part of Oregon? I was raised there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 Also, the Light manual suggests using this sealer on the plate of the hinge that makes contact with the cab--door sealer esb-m2g150-a Thoughts? When I pulled the doors, the rust behind the hinges was evident. The sealer must stop water and dirt from being trapped there. Mine had no sealer applied when I removed, which means when they shot the truck with red they did not reapply the sealer. Does anyone use something equivalent? BTW, Grumpin—thank you. And what part of Oregon? I was raised there. Klamath Falls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmericanSavage Posted July 22, 2022 Author Share Posted July 22, 2022 Klamath Falls. Central Oregon! Redmond! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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