Diary of a Restore (Thread)

[AmericanSavage]

I think it is wise to put a speedi sleeve on. At least you'll have peace of mind.

Are the nuts deformed? Meaning kind of flattened a bit? If so they are "prevailing torque" and don't go on easily.

I have new Dana 50 nuts coming (the 4 eared kind). These are like 6 ear Dana 60s I think someone else put on. BUT, I will try to get a shot of the threads on the spindle tomorrow for ya'll. On that, the threads look buggered. Not to the point you cannot get a nut on, but enough to make the initial start a bit of a bear.

[Atlas75]

I think it is wise to put a speedi sleeve on. At least you'll have peace of mind.

Are the nuts deformed? Meaning kind of flattened a bit? If so they are "prevailing torque" and don't go on easily.

I have new Dana 50 nuts coming (the 4 eared kind). These are like 6 ear Dana 60s I think someone else put on. BUT, I will try to get a shot of the threads on the spindle tomorrow for ya'll. On that, the threads look buggered. Not to the point you cannot get a nut on, but enough to make the initial start a bit of a bear.

Mine are the 6 ear kind as well. The Dana 50 and 60 share a number of parts.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think it is wise to put a speedi sleeve on. At least you'll have peace of mind.

Are the nuts deformed? Meaning kind of flattened a bit? If so they are "prevailing torque" and don't go on easily.

I have new Dana 50 nuts coming (the 4 eared kind). These are like 6 ear Dana 60s I think someone else put on. BUT, I will try to get a shot of the threads on the spindle tomorrow for ya'll. On that, the threads look buggered. Not to the point you cannot get a nut on, but enough to make the initial start a bit of a bear.

Do you know what the thread pitch is?

There are things called thread files that are a square stick of hardened steel with four pitches on each end that are the ticket for lightly cleaning up big threads like this that you'd never buy a die for.

Just something I'm throwing out for consideration before you bigger up the new nut on distorted threads.

[AmericanSavage]

Do you know what the thread pitch is?

There are things called thread files that are a square stick of hardened steel with four pitches on each end that are the ticket for lightly cleaning up big threads like this that you'd never buy a die for.

Just something I'm throwing out for consideration before you bigger up the new nut on distorted threads.

Hey All ,

Update:

Thread pitch is 16. I measured with my tap/die pitch tool.

After some thought, I checked the other nut on the spindle. The inner one—with the wallowed out keyways—went on easy. That nut was the reason I ordered a new set because tight keyways are easier to install nuts like this. Anyway, it caught a little after a few turns, then went on easy by hand.

The outer one is what I used earlier. It went on with trouble, caught, and does not go the rest of the way by hand.

I looked at the nut threads, and they look fine at least to me.

The spindle section I think is holding it up is in the pic….someone drop it, or hammer it? Was it in Florida? I kid.

In a holding pattern until sleeve gets here. Hope to have this side wrapped up by the end of the weekend.

[AmericanSavage]

Back in the Saddle again:

Spent the day pressing bearings and joints. Got the spindle done with new needle bearing and seal. Ultra Black the seal to help it remain in place—kind of loose going in. Speedi sleeve is on with Loc. 262—heated in oven for an hour…went on easy.

Got the ujoint in. About half way through noticed a small washer inside the cap fell out…had to pull it out and put it in. Two needles fell over too do glad I caught it. But the Spicer u joint is in—the grease fitting is on the cap and I am rather concerned about clearance.

Knuckle is done too. Pressed in the upper and lower. I used never seize all around these components. I will likely do the same on the back side of the spindle on install, which I think will be tomorrow.

I used my floor press not the ball joint c clamp tool for everything. I am so glad I have that floor press. Easier to figure out the combinations to press stuff on. Makes the puzzle easier.

I will set the MOOG sleeve to 0 and see where I am on install. Fabbing up a toe measurement with laser. Will send pic when it is done. We shall see how accurate I can craft it. But I want to try.

Oh the spindle nuts came—they are rather tight getting on. Starts for a few turns then halts.

Pics follow:

 

[AmericanSavage]

Back in the Saddle again:

Spent the day pressing bearings and joints. Got the spindle done with new needle bearing and seal. Ultra Black the seal to help it remain in place—kind of loose going in. Speedi sleeve is on with Loc. 262—heated in oven for an hour…went on easy.

Got the ujoint in. About half way through noticed a small washer inside the cap fell out…had to pull it out and put it in. Two needles fell over too do glad I caught it. But the Spicer u joint is in—the grease fitting is on the cap and I am rather concerned about clearance.

Knuckle is done too. Pressed in the upper and lower. I used never seize all around these components. I will likely do the same on the back side of the spindle on install, which I think will be tomorrow.

I used my floor press not the ball joint c clamp tool for everything. I am so glad I have that floor press. Easier to figure out the combinations to press stuff on. Makes the puzzle easier.

I will set the MOOG sleeve to 0 and see where I am on install. Fabbing up a toe measurement with laser. Will send pic when it is done. We shall see how accurate I can craft it. But I want to try.

Oh the spindle nuts came—they are rather tight getting on. Starts for a few turns then halts.

Pics follow:

Never got to the laser/aign mock up. Story at the end.

Got the knuckle on. Took a bit of doing as the bottom ball joint wanted to spin, and getting a drag link on the ball joint bolt slipped. I used a jack to push the knuckle up so I could torqe the bottom nut, and seat the top.

Dialing in the moog was really simple. However, there are few options for my fitment. I wanted to back off the positive camber to 1 or 1 ¼ (I believe the original was +1.5. That is too much as you can see the tires eating away on the outside. However, one cannot dial 0 caster and achieve anything over +¾ camber — so the next slot was adding caster ¼ to get to +1 camber. I did that. Super easy to do by the way. If this does not work, TorqueKing has some different affordable sleeves cheaper than the Moog, but with less variation, but more variation than stock sleeves. We shall see how it handles and wears. I could go +¾ camber and 0 Caster on the Moog, and allow the native caster to take over…but after that I cannot dial anything in on 0 caster until something like +2 and above. And THAT is that too much positive camber.

New ball joints, etc., may also make me revise all this since the ones replaced looked original. I cannot say they were shot by feel, but were easy to move.

Shaft went in easy. Spindle on. In the pics, yes, that is anti-sieze, which I smeared on ALL contact points on the knuckle and spindle.

Here is where an issue arose: I got to the hub and rotor, and as is my problem on the wheels and hubs, the outer race came out rather easy—too easy. I put the new one in. Went in too easy. I could move it a skosch with my hand, but not spin it. The old race had the numbers on it worn off, so it spun at some point, but not like the rear hub where there was bluing.

UGH!

In the meantime, I used a sharp tool, and made punch marks internally, then Loctite 262 (high heat) and pressed the new race in. It is solid and does not move. But, as I said way back when I did the rear hub, I KNOW this is only temporary. Then I found a new old stock hub. This time is proving a little more difficult. So, I am in the market for a Dana 50 Manual 4x4 front hub.

Letting the hub sit overnight to cure. The INNER race is solid—it holds the larger bearing. So there’s that. I would have expected if any one would go bad, it would be the inner not the smaller outer.

OK to the pics. If the hub did not take my time today, I would start mocking up the toe measurement tool.

[AmericanSavage]

Made quick work of a few things today then stopped. I cannot get the pass side inner shaft out of the pumpkin—is that because the seal is holing it in? Any experience with this would be much appreciated—I attach the TK diagram for reference below. I got the outer shaft out from the slip yoke. But, I’d like the inner part out to replace the bearing and seal.

Looks like I will need to speedi another spindle. Pic below. This one was a bear to get out. Combo dead blow and the “Bob method” worked. And lots of Blaster. MAY pick up a spindle for saving. Both the fronts as you see have been pretty beat up.

I have a front hub on the way to keep as a spare—found a really good deal on one. TK has them new…for $500 btw. I opted for another route. Recall the D side hub race spun. I know that that fix will be temporary as I scored/punched the interior and Loc’d it with 272.

Lastly: Look at the pass side knuckle. Remember my D side tie rod end would not seat, and I used a washer to get it to seat up? Well, on this side, that’s a sleeve. And there was no drilling out of the knuckle to press it in. Anyone have info on this? I have tried to find sleeves for this, but so far they are all “drill out to 7/8, then tap sleeve in.” So apparently this was a problem before me. I used a washer but would not mind having a tapered sleeve on hand.

Thoughts?

OK, pics follow.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Made quick work of a few things today then stopped. I cannot get the pass side inner shaft out of the pumpkin—is that because the seal is holing it in? Any experience with this would be much appreciated—I attach the TK diagram for reference below. I got the outer shaft out from the slip yoke. But, I’d like the inner part out to replace the bearing and seal.

Looks like I will need to speedi another spindle. Pic below. This one was a bear to get out. Combo dead blow and the “Bob method” worked. And lots of Blaster. MAY pick up a spindle for saving. Both the fronts as you see have been pretty beat up.

I have a front hub on the way to keep as a spare—found a really good deal on one. TK has them new…for $500 btw. I opted for another route. Recall the D side hub race spun. I know that that fix will be temporary as I scored/punched the interior and Loc’d it with 272.

Lastly: Look at the pass side knuckle. Remember my D side tie rod end would not seat, and I used a washer to get it to seat up? Well, on this side, that’s a sleeve. And there was no drilling out of the knuckle to press it in. Anyone have info on this? I have tried to find sleeves for this, but so far they are all “drill out to 7/8, then tap sleeve in.” So apparently this was a problem before me. I used a washer but would not mind having a tapered sleeve on hand.

Thoughts?

OK, pics follow.

Are you sure your 1980 doesn't use the 'bolt in place' passenger side shaft retainers?

Wow! I don't remember what a brake dust shield even looks like (coming from the salty NE)

Looks fantastic. You're doing a great job!

[Gary Lewis]

Made quick work of a few things today then stopped. I cannot get the pass side inner shaft out of the pumpkin—is that because the seal is holing it in? Any experience with this would be much appreciated—I attach the TK diagram for reference below. I got the outer shaft out from the slip yoke. But, I’d like the inner part out to replace the bearing and seal.

Looks like I will need to speedi another spindle. Pic below. This one was a bear to get out. Combo dead blow and the “Bob method” worked. And lots of Blaster. MAY pick up a spindle for saving. Both the fronts as you see have been pretty beat up.

I have a front hub on the way to keep as a spare—found a really good deal on one. TK has them new…for $500 btw. I opted for another route. Recall the D side hub race spun. I know that that fix will be temporary as I scored/punched the interior and Loc’d it with 272.

Lastly: Look at the pass side knuckle. Remember my D side tie rod end would not seat, and I used a washer to get it to seat up? Well, on this side, that’s a sleeve. And there was no drilling out of the knuckle to press it in. Anyone have info on this? I have tried to find sleeves for this, but so far they are all “drill out to 7/8, then tap sleeve in.” So apparently this was a problem before me. I used a washer but would not mind having a tapered sleeve on hand.

Thoughts?

OK, pics follow.

That is a lot of PROGRESS!

But I don't have any idea about the sleeve, although it does appear that it is a known problem.

However, I think your fixes with punch marks, ready sleeves, and Loctite will last quite a while. So you may not need the spares soon, although they are not going to get any cheaper so it is wise to have them.

[AmericanSavage]

Are you sure your 1980 doesn't use the 'bolt in place' passenger side shaft retainers?

Wow! I don't remember what a brake dust shield even looks like (coming from the salty NE)

Looks fantastic. You're doing a great job!

Hey Jim,

The right side shaft has three bolt retaining ring. I pulled the bolts. When I pulled the shaft, the part pf the shaft separation from the yoke, leaving shaft 12 and 13 (from the TK diagram) still in place in the diff. It is supposed to pull out, I THINK, but if you look at the shaft that goes into the diff, it has a bearing pressed on it with a retaining ring—then the seal. I would hate to loosen that seal and still find it does not come out. Maybe I figure a come along approach to pull it?I am not sure at this point—taking another look today.

Also going to take another look at that sleeve that was installed.

Knuckle removal today.

Otherwise, cleaning up the parts, painting…etc.