grumpin Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 Driver’s side looks much better. Did not have time to finish it off—rain. I do have one concern: I have an inner wheel bearing RACE that seems to be loose, and spins a little inside the hub. Everything from the bearing to the race looks good in terms of wear—someone definitely put in new bearings before I got it. But, I do not think the race should have any slop in it. New rear hub may be in my future? Will test brakes, I hope this weekend. Cheers to you, and you beat me to Walter! Now, I am going to get my Grape Nehi and relax. Can you see the part number on the race? Could be the wrong one was installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmericanSavage Posted February 10, 2023 Author Share Posted February 10, 2023 Can you see the part number on the race? Could be the wrong one was installed. No. It is deep down there—and a timken—that I can see. I bought a kit just in case, and I know the bearing I have is the same. I am ASSUMING the race is as well—it looks rather exact. My new bearing fit in it as it should. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmericanSavage Posted February 10, 2023 Author Share Posted February 10, 2023 Obviously someone was in there changing bearings if they cut a race off the other side. You say that the race moves around in the hub? Is there any radial play at all? Is there any marks or scoring that makes you think it spun? If it's just a slip fit with no play I would probably install with bearing retainer. There's a reason Loctite and Permatex sell these green formulas. No and that is what makes me so perplexed. Everything really looks good, but I can move it a little up and down, and circle around. It is ODD. Aside: Light says the only way to get these races out is with a brass drift. I wish there was a way to “press” them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 Obviously someone was in there changing bearings if they cut a race off the other side. You say that the race moves around in the hub? Is there any radial play at all? Is there any marks or scoring that makes you think it spun? If it's just a slip fit with no play I would probably install with bearing retainer. There's a reason Loctite and Permatex sell these green formulas. No and that is what makes me so perplexed. Everything really looks good, but I can move it a little up and down, and circle around. It is ODD. Aside: Light says the only way to get these races out is with a brass drift. I wish there was a way to “press” them out. So, there is a bunch of play... Any measurable radial play is not good. I really don't know what the inside of a D61 hub looks like. My 10.25 hub is too small to get something in behind the race that I could ress on, so I just use the same piece of 5/8 brass rod I've had for 40 years. Tap, tap, tap your way around the circumference so it doesn't get cocked in the bore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmericanSavage Posted February 10, 2023 Author Share Posted February 10, 2023 So, there is a bunch of play... Any measurable radial play is not good. I really don't know what the inside of a D61 hub looks like. My 10.25 hub is too small to get something in behind the race that I could ress on, so I just use the same piece of 5/8 brass rod I've had for 40 years. Tap, tap, tap your way around the circumference so it doesn't get cocked in the bore. I agree. I need to find a LONG brass rod—One of the things I do not have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 So, there is a bunch of play... Any measurable radial play is not good. I really don't know what the inside of a D61 hub looks like. My 10.25 hub is too small to get something in behind the race that I could ress on, so I just use the same piece of 5/8 brass rod I've had for 40 years. Tap, tap, tap your way around the circumference so it doesn't get cocked in the bore. I agree. I need to find a LONG brass rod—One of the things I do not have. Amazon says I can have a foot of 1/2" brass rod tomorrow for $12.99. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmericanSavage Posted February 10, 2023 Author Share Posted February 10, 2023 Amazon says I can have a foot of 1/2" brass rod tomorrow for $12.99. Yes, but how long? It needs to be 12” (1 foot) I think to drive it out. The 350 drum and hub is a deep one. Maybe an 8” would do it. but I think that gets close to bottoming out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 Amazon says I can have a foot of 1/2" brass rod tomorrow for $12.99. Yes, but how long? It needs to be 12” (1 foot) I think to drive it out. The 350 drum and hub is a deep one. Maybe an 8” would do it. but I think that gets close to bottoming out. A foot is 12". Im sure that would be long enough for my hubs, but as I said I don't know yours... You could even use a dowel or something. Bearings shouldn't be that tight (unless you glue them in) Big hammer, little taps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmericanSavage Posted February 11, 2023 Author Share Posted February 11, 2023 A foot is 12". Im sure that would be long enough for my hubs, but as I said I don't know yours... You could even use a dowel or something. Bearings shouldn't be that tight (unless you glue them in) Big hammer, little taps. Hey Jim, Thanks! I found a ¾ diameter at 11” on ebay for just shy of $20. That should do the trick. Love the idea of the dowel, btw. Do you use a brass hammer too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 A foot is 12". Im sure that would be long enough for my hubs, but as I said I don't know yours... You could even use a dowel or something. Bearings shouldn't be that tight (unless you glue them in) Big hammer, little taps. Hey Jim, Thanks! I found a ¾ diameter at 11” on ebay for just shy of $20. That should do the trick. Love the idea of the dowel, btw. Do you use a brass hammer too? Nope. Just a heavy (3 pound, drilling) hammer. You want a lot of oomph but do it gently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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