Diary of a Restore (Thread)

[ArdWrknTrk]

Just want to thank everyone for chiming in. Much appreciated.

I am going to buy those seals, but also sleeve this side where the seal rides. What the D side looks like--tune in next week!

Then onto the front axle.

I'm not sure what the seal is for a D61, but JBG lists the traditional type seal as National 9864S (same seal for Dana 60)

3.882 OD 2.875 ID .413 depth.

Do a Scotseal or a Speedisleeve....

There's no point in trying to force a Scotseal over a sleeve.

Scotseals get installed with RTV to the shaft (axle housing) so the ID surface really doesn't matter.

Gary says he has had good service from Torqueking for parts.

I doubt you will have luck at the LAP store, though if you are familiar with a bearing house or powertrain shop they could probably hook you up.

[Gary Lewis]

I'm not sure what the seal is for a D61, but JBG lists the traditional type seal as National 9864S (same seal for Dana 60)

3.882 OD 2.875 ID .413 depth.

Do a Scotseal or a Speedisleeve....

There's no point in trying to force a Scotseal over a sleeve.

Scotseals get installed with RTV to the shaft (axle housing) so the ID surface really doesn't matter.

Gary says he has had good service from Torqueking for parts.

I doubt you will have luck at the LAP store, though if you are familiar with a bearing house or powertrain shop they could probably hook you up.

Yes, Torque King is my go-to place.

[AmericanSavage]

I'm not sure what the seal is for a D61, but JBG lists the traditional type seal as National 9864S (same seal for Dana 60)

3.882 OD 2.875 ID .413 depth.

Do a Scotseal or a Speedisleeve....

There's no point in trying to force a Scotseal over a sleeve.

Scotseals get installed with RTV to the shaft (axle housing) so the ID surface really doesn't matter.

Gary says he has had good service from Torqueking for parts.

I doubt you will have luck at the LAP store, though if you are familiar with a bearing house or powertrain shop they could probably hook you up.

I just watched a video on the scotseal….I had a different sense of what they did—so thank you!

If the sleeve does not work—as in does not fit, I will go for the scotseal.

I calipered the spindle, and order the sleeve that is supposed to work within the three measurements I recorded. We shall see.

Gary—I am impressed with TK! What a great site. Better than Rock! Bookmarking.

[Gary Lewis]

I'm not sure what the seal is for a D61, but JBG lists the traditional type seal as National 9864S (same seal for Dana 60)

3.882 OD 2.875 ID .413 depth.

Do a Scotseal or a Speedisleeve....

There's no point in trying to force a Scotseal over a sleeve.

Scotseals get installed with RTV to the shaft (axle housing) so the ID surface really doesn't matter.

Gary says he has had good service from Torqueking for parts.

I doubt you will have luck at the LAP store, though if you are familiar with a bearing house or powertrain shop they could probably hook you up.

I just watched a video on the scotseal….I had a different sense of what they did—so thank you!

If the sleeve does not work—as in does not fit, I will go for the scotseal.

I calipered the spindle, and order the sleeve that is supposed to work within the three measurements I recorded. We shall see.

Gary—I am impressed with TK! What a great site. Better than Rock! Bookmarking.

You can call TK and someone not only answers but knows what he’s talking about. I had two oil seals, same size but slightly different. He told me which one went where.

[AmericanSavage]

You can call TK and someone not only answers but knows what he’s talking about. I had two oil seals, same size but slightly different. He told me which one went where.

I will be ordering. I finally found a the bearing and retainer that I could not find at Rock (that I noted in my front axle thread)—not even with parts list E0tz numbers at TK! AS A SET! Excellent! This was my last piece I needed for the right side.

https://torqueking.com/product/42109/qu42109-timken-wheel-or-axle-shaft-bearing-with-lock-ring/

 

[AmericanSavage]

Got the sleeve on this morning, and set the drum in place. I packed the bearings with a light grease as Light recommends. Will torque down later as the sleeve needs to set—added a little red loctite to it.

I heated the sleeve in the oven at 200, and given it was difficult to find a tube/pvc/exhaust pipe that fit right, used this reinforced cardboard tube a guy gave to me at NAPA. It worked great.

The spec for this is odd to me: T to 50-80 ft lbs, then back off, and torque again to 120-140.

I was expecting a 2-9/16 nut here….but instead I found this. I had the tool that I bought for my Dads 73 chevy at 16 still on me, and it worked—6 ear socket. Maybe this is better than the nut and the plastic/metal locking key?

At any rate, pics:

[Gary Lewis]

Got the sleeve on this morning, and set the drum in place. I packed the bearings with a light grease as Light recommends. Will torque down later as the sleeve needs to set—added a little red loctite to it.

I heated the sleeve in the oven at 200, and given it was difficult to find a tube/pvc/exhaust pipe that fit right, used this reinforced cardboard tube a guy gave to me at NAPA. It worked great.

The spec for this is odd to me: T to 50-80 ft lbs, then back off, and torque again to 120-140.

I was expecting a 2-9/16 nut here….but instead I found this. I had the tool that I bought for my Dads 73 chevy at 16 still on me, and it worked—6 ear socket. Maybe this is better than the nut and the plastic/metal locking key?

At any rate, pics:

On the torque specs, are you sure the "120 - 140" isn't inch pounds? Typically the 50 - 80 ft-lbs is to set the bearing and then you come back and tighten down "snugish", which 120 - 140 in lbs or 10 - 12 ft lbs would do.

[AmericanSavage]

On the torque specs, are you sure the "120 - 140" isn't inch pounds? Typically the 50 - 80 ft-lbs is to set the bearing and then you come back and tighten down "snugish", which 120 - 140 in lbs or 10 - 12 ft lbs would do.

I thought that sounded wayyyyyyyy too high too. But look at Light 11-14-3, points 18 and 19. Clearly FOOT lbs noted. Is this a typo?

p.s.—really sick of seeing things made in Chyna.

[Gary Lewis]

On the torque specs, are you sure the "120 - 140" isn't inch pounds? Typically the 50 - 80 ft-lbs is to set the bearing and then you come back and tighten down "snugish", which 120 - 140 in lbs or 10 - 12 ft lbs would do.

I thought that sounded wayyyyyyyy too high too. But look at Light 11-14-3, points 18 and 19. Clearly FOOT lbs noted. Is this a typo?

p.s.—really sick of seeing things made in Chyna.

I'm looking at a different manual as this is on 11-14-2. But it says:

19. While rotating the wheel, tighten the adjusting nut to 163-189 N • m (120-140 ft. lb.) using special tool Hex Locknut Wrench T70T-4252-D or Octal Locknut Wrench T70T-4252-E. Back off the adjusting nut enough to get a 0.025-0.254 mm (0.001-0.010 inch) end play. This should require 1/8 to 3/8 turn. Position the locking wedge in the key way slot and pound wedge into position (Fig. 6)

Doesn't yours say to back it off?

[AmericanSavage]

I'm looking at a different manual as this is on 11-14-2. But it says:

19. While rotating the wheel, tighten the adjusting nut to 163-189 N • m (120-140 ft. lb.) using special tool Hex Locknut Wrench T70T-4252-D or Octal Locknut Wrench T70T-4252-E. Back off the adjusting nut enough to get a 0.025-0.254 mm (0.001-0.010 inch) end play. This should require 1/8 to 3/8 turn. Position the locking wedge in the key way slot and pound wedge into position (Fig. 6)

Doesn't yours say to back it off?

Yes, after reaching the 120, it says back it off until there is appropriate end play. At the moment, it is sitting as you described above to the lower torque spec, then backed it off to the next ear slot I would bend over ear. I did not have to back it off far. I can redo it, but that is where it sits now.

I should say, the nut I could take off by hand, it was that loose, when I first tore into the rear end there.