AmericanSavage Posted February 5, 2023 Author Share Posted February 5, 2023 it's definitely cold here in NC. but after reading about the wind chill recorded on mt Washington yesterday I refuse to complain. its above freezing. and all the signs of spring are looming. my wife cut fresh buttercups yesterday and brought them in. can't complain about that. as to the washer I think you are fine with it. sure, it is not supposed to be needed. in theory it's possible that the machining / casting differences are what caused this. or possibly it is from hard livin. loose taper joints wear. loose taper joints also hold moisture and rust. rusty joints wear more. and so on. if in its life it was not torqued to spec and was not seated properly this might be the result. theory for certain but if you got it torqued to spec with a washer, roll with it. in doing the safety check on an f 250 I found the drag link tightened with the castle nut and cotter pin in place yet as soon as i lifted one wheel to check for joint play it flopped like it was shot. I tightened it three more rounds to spec. there is no telling how long that truck was wandering all over the road with the driver saying "it can't be that. its new"! Here is a pic of what I did. The tape set the line for me to screw the new tie rod end in at the same locaiton as the old. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 5, 2023 Share Posted February 5, 2023 Here is a pic of what I did. The tape set the line for me to screw the new tie rod end in at the same locaiton as the old. Yes, Mt Washington was C.O.L.D. The washer looks just fine and can't hurt anything. But I'd wrap that cotter pin around a bit more. I worry about getting cut on things like that when I'm under the truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmericanSavage Posted February 5, 2023 Author Share Posted February 5, 2023 Yes, Mt Washington was C.O.L.D. The washer looks just fine and can't hurt anything. But I'd wrap that cotter pin around a bit more. I worry about getting cut on things like that when I'm under the truck. Will do Gary! Warmed up a little today, and rained on me when I was looking at front axle. Called it a day as a result. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted February 6, 2023 Share Posted February 6, 2023 Yes, Mt Washington was C.O.L.D. The washer looks just fine and can't hurt anything. But I'd wrap that cotter pin around a bit more. I worry about getting cut on things like that when I'm under the truck. Will do Gary! Warmed up a little today, and rained on me when I was looking at front axle. Called it a day as a result. the tape is a great idea yet none of these parts are drop in exact. that's one of the reasons they are adjustable. that should be good enough to get you to an alignment shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmericanSavage Posted February 6, 2023 Author Share Posted February 6, 2023 the tape is a great idea yet none of these parts are drop in exact. that's one of the reasons they are adjustable. that should be good enough to get you to an alignment shop. What in the name of ZEUS?! Tackled the parking brake sticking. Took a while to pull the drum—had to contract the brakes through the hole. At any rate got it off and saw this. What is the world did prior owners do to this? I assume here that this is a not an easy fix and requires a whole new axle as this back spindle piece is part of the entire rearend, yes? Inside there was no wet fluid, but there was a ton of gunk and and old dirt and grease—does not look like brake fluid. Brake pads look newish but they were gunked with sticky dirt and grease. Inside drum looks fine. Did not see pitting on the bearings, but did not look closely at them yet. Anyway, took a full can of CRC to get it all cleaned up. I assume there was a seal leak at some point, but not recently. Still, that spindle does not look good. Any advice from the wise men? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted February 7, 2023 Share Posted February 7, 2023 What in the name of ZEUS?! Tackled the parking brake sticking. Took a while to pull the drum—had to contract the brakes through the hole. At any rate got it off and saw this. What is the world did prior owners do to this? I assume here that this is a not an easy fix and requires a whole new axle as this back spindle piece is part of the entire rearend, yes? Inside there was no wet fluid, but there was a ton of gunk and and old dirt and grease—does not look like brake fluid. Brake pads look newish but they were gunked with sticky dirt and grease. Inside drum looks fine. Did not see pitting on the bearings, but did not look closely at them yet. Anyway, took a full can of CRC to get it all cleaned up. I assume there was a seal leak at some point, but not recently. Still, that spindle does not look good. Any advice from the wise men? it sure looks to me like a bearing or seal was removed the hard way. I think I see a track from a cutoff wheel. but all the circles are real nice. that is a mystery to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlas75 Posted February 7, 2023 Share Posted February 7, 2023 What in the name of ZEUS?! Tackled the parking brake sticking. Took a while to pull the drum—had to contract the brakes through the hole. At any rate got it off and saw this. What is the world did prior owners do to this? I assume here that this is a not an easy fix and requires a whole new axle as this back spindle piece is part of the entire rearend, yes? Inside there was no wet fluid, but there was a ton of gunk and and old dirt and grease—does not look like brake fluid. Brake pads look newish but they were gunked with sticky dirt and grease. Inside drum looks fine. Did not see pitting on the bearings, but did not look closely at them yet. Anyway, took a full can of CRC to get it all cleaned up. I assume there was a seal leak at some point, but not recently. Still, that spindle does not look good. Any advice from the wise men? Holy Yikes!! Someone beat the crud out of that poor spindle. Where the outer bearing rides still looks OK but where the inner bearing rides is another story. It is in pretty rough shape. The area where the seal mates is in rough shape as well. I am not sure if those are replaceable on the rear axles, but you seem to have a Dana 61 like I do. Maybe a Sterling swap is in order if they are as bad as they look in the photo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmericanSavage Posted February 7, 2023 Author Share Posted February 7, 2023 it sure looks to me like a bearing or seal was removed the hard way. I think I see a track from a cutoff wheel. but all the circles are real nice. that is a mystery to me. That cutoff part (if we are looking at the same spot) is the inner Bearing spot. The point before that (the bigger section) is where the seal rides. All those circles is dead space in the drum, then the outer bearing section. My question is, should I use Defcon to smooth it out? Sand it, etc? I would use Belzona, but, FAR too expensive. A decent repair would be like one offered for my timing chain cover--they come with sleeves for the crank so the seal seals. At least, that would work for that part of the rear spindle. The bearing part would need Defcon and precision sanding. I should add: A Speed Sleeve MIGHT work for the seal area. Just have to measure and see if they have one that fits in diameter and width. But, that inner bearing area... I am a bit stumped as to what to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 7, 2023 Share Posted February 7, 2023 A Speed Sleeve MIGHT work for the seal area. Just have to measure and see if they have one that fits in diameter and width. But, that inner bearing area... I am a bit stumped as to what to do. That little nick under the race isn't going to hurt anything. Just use a 'Scot seal' XL design seal (no need for that SKF brand) https://vehicleaftermarket.skf.com/us/en/product-assortment/heavy-duty/wheel-end/scotseals-heavy-duty-trucks This is a seal that rides inside a seal. You drive the outer into the hub and then you glue the inner "race" of the seal onto the axle housing when you install the hub and axle. This is what I use on my 10.25" because nothing else works. Again, you can get this type of seal from a bunch of manufacturers, but just like Kleenex or Aspirin everyone knows them as Scotseal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmericanSavage Posted February 8, 2023 Author Share Posted February 8, 2023 A Speed Sleeve MIGHT work for the seal area. Just have to measure and see if they have one that fits in diameter and width. But, that inner bearing area... I am a bit stumped as to what to do. That little nick under the race isn't going to hurt anything. Just use a 'Scot seal' XL design seal (no need for that SKF brand) https://vehicleaftermarket.skf.com/us/en/product-assortment/heavy-duty/wheel-end/scotseals-heavy-duty-trucks This is a seal that rides inside a seal. You drive the outer into the hub and then you glue the inner "race" of the seal onto the axle housing when you install the hub and axle. This is what I use on my 10.25" because nothing else works. Again, you can get this type of seal from a bunch of manufacturers, but just like Kleenex or Aspirin everyone knows them as Scotseal. Just want to thank everyone for chiming in. Much appreciated. I am going to buy those seals, but also sleeve this side where the seal rides. What the D side looks like--tune in next week! Then onto the front axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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