Diary of a Restore (Thread)

[AmericanSavage]

I am still looking for the diagram of the 9 port Ford car piece. Will update if I find.

I started thinking—I have 2 white/yellow body 19b888b vacuum bodies. And I rescued 1 extra control from the pick. I have the pieces that broke on mine. It snapped off just above the retaining washer. The rest seems to still work—the lever and the round disk with the rubber routing based on position. So, why would not this work? (below) It has enough clearance on both sides. I used a ¼ 2” long bolt, washers, and a nylon locking nut. Needs to be that long to get ahold of the spring and compress it.

IF most break in this way, I do not see why anyone would need to look into a swap. Cheap and easy mod.?

Update 2: Well, what a difference a few days makes. While I wait for the parts, I fired up the truck to see if I could see the point when the water leaks--it is when the thermo open and the truck is warm, and then the top weep hole begins to fill.

I also rechecked the underneath at the c2. There is a definite drip from the botton of the plastic housing, but I also noticed, there was a lot of fluid collecting around the Gear Box. The amount is more than the rate of the drip from the C2.

I suspect my gear box seal is shot????!!!!

It looks to be the original box, and never touched.

Because of Gary's suggestions in an older thread, I will be calling Blue Top tomorrow. I figure replace it all. Maybe the steering with be tighter too since the box on it now is no doubt original.

[Gary Lewis]

Update 2: Well, what a difference a few days makes. While I wait for the parts, I fired up the truck to see if I could see the point when the water leaks--it is when the thermo open and the truck is warm, and then the top weep hole begins to fill.

I also rechecked the underneath at the c2. There is a definite drip from the botton of the plastic housing, but I also noticed, there was a lot of fluid collecting around the Gear Box. The amount is more than the rate of the drip from the C2.

I suspect my gear box seal is shot????!!!!

It looks to be the original box, and never touched.

Because of Gary's suggestions in an older thread, I will be calling Blue Top tomorrow. I figure replace it all. Maybe the steering with be tighter too since the box on it now is no doubt original.

I think that’s a good plan. You will be happy.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Update 2: Well, what a difference a few days makes. While I wait for the parts, I fired up the truck to see if I could see the point when the water leaks--it is when the thermo open and the truck is warm, and then the top weep hole begins to fill.

I also rechecked the underneath at the c2. There is a definite drip from the botton of the plastic housing, but I also noticed, there was a lot of fluid collecting around the Gear Box. The amount is more than the rate of the drip from the C2.

I suspect my gear box seal is shot????!!!!

It looks to be the original box, and never touched.

Because of Gary's suggestions in an older thread, I will be calling Blue Top tomorrow. I figure replace it all. Maybe the steering with be tighter too since the box on it now is no doubt original.

Are you sure your steering box is leaking? (Input or output seal) and not just a line or fitting?

Blue Top is a nice upgrade! If they're not already covered in fluid you might want to start putting PB Blaster (or similar) on those three bolts where they thread through the mounting flange. They are oddball bolts and if threads get buggered you're not going to find them at your local hardware.

The C2 and Ford box take Type F transmission fluid. I would definitely replace the pressure and return lines if I intended to change the pump and sector box.

A crowsfoot wrench is almost a necessity on those steering box flare nuts. You can find a cheap set at Horrid Fate. 💡

I haven't seen a "top" weep hole on a water pump but I haven't ever owned a truck with a 335 engine either.

So, it only seems to leak under pressure? Do you have access to a coolant system pressure tester?

..."rental" from one of the chain stores??? (you'll want to "rent" a steering pump pulley puller/installer at any rate)

It's certainly easier to track a leak down when the engine isn't vibrating and the fan blowing.

Sounds like you're getting all your ducks in a row.

[AmericanSavage]

Are you sure your steering box is leaking? (Input or output seal) and not just a line or fitting?

Blue Top is a nice upgrade! If they're not already covered in fluid you might want to start putting PB Blaster (or similar) on those three bolts where they thread through the mounting flange. They are oddball bolts and if threads get buggered you're not going to find them at your local hardware.

The C2 and Ford box take Type F transmission fluid. I would definitely replace the pressure and return lines if I intended to change the pump and sector box.

A crowsfoot wrench is almost a necessity on those steering box flare nuts. You can find a cheap set at Horrid Fate. 💡

I haven't seen a "top" weep hole on a water pump but I haven't ever owned a truck with a 335 engine either.

So, it only seems to leak under pressure? Do you have access to a coolant system pressure tester?

..."rental" from one of the chain stores??? (you'll want to "rent" a steering pump pulley puller/installer at any rate)

It's certainly easier to track a leak down when the engine isn't vibrating and the fan blowing.

Sounds like you're getting all your ducks in a row.

There is definitely a small weep hole at the top behind the pulley. Incidentally, Rock Auto sent me the wrong pump today, the second time they have sent the wrong part to me. I mean this was not even close and came with a dual pulley pressed onto it.

While I was at it today, I plotted my dissembling the parts—Blastered the bolts to prep them. Started to check the intermediate shaft.

Up to the place it connects at the firewall, it has a lot of PLAY—up down—side to side.

First pics of the int shaft

then what RA sent me. GRRRRRRRR.

[AmericanSavage]

Are you sure your steering box is leaking? (Input or output seal) and not just a line or fitting?

Blue Top is a nice upgrade! If they're not already covered in fluid you might want to start putting PB Blaster (or similar) on those three bolts where they thread through the mounting flange. They are oddball bolts and if threads get buggered you're not going to find them at your local hardware.

The C2 and Ford box take Type F transmission fluid. I would definitely replace the pressure and return lines if I intended to change the pump and sector box.

A crowsfoot wrench is almost a necessity on those steering box flare nuts. You can find a cheap set at Horrid Fate. 💡

I haven't seen a "top" weep hole on a water pump but I haven't ever owned a truck with a 335 engine either.

So, it only seems to leak under pressure? Do you have access to a coolant system pressure tester?

..."rental" from one of the chain stores??? (you'll want to "rent" a steering pump pulley puller/installer at any rate)

It's certainly easier to track a leak down when the engine isn't vibrating and the fan blowing.

Sounds like you're getting all your ducks in a row.

There is definitely a small weep hole at the top behind the pulley. Incidentally, Rock Auto sent me the wrong pump today, the second time they have sent the wrong part to me. I mean this was not even close and came with a dual pulley pressed onto it.

While I was at it today, I plotted my dissembling the parts—Blastered the bolts to prep them. Started to check the intermediate shaft.

Up to the place it connects at the firewall, it has a lot of PLAY—up down—side to side.

First pics of the int shaft

then what RA sent me. GRRRRRRRR.

So here's the plan:

I received the LARES new C2 today. it looks great. It came with a nut, washer, and bolt--I assume to press on the new pulley.

I returned the Water pump yesterday, and with all the coupons I had, ordered one from Advance, for rather cheap.

Given that the int. shaft is shot and not fixable, I decided to go with a Borgeson. My only question is the 980 or 985. Anyone have experience with both? Is dampening really necessary. I noted in the Borgeson cat, that they mention it is for low profile tires, and other stiff rides. Thoughts?

When all the parts arrive, and I am sure they will fit, I will order the Blue Top. I want to do all this at once.

So here's the list of what I am going to do over the break (if lucky) that I tried to stave off until closer to Spring. Oh well--the immediate list:

• Replace Water pump

• Replace C2

• Replace Gear Box (Upgrade)

• Replace Intermediate Shaft (upgrade)

• Install Step Bars (mounted to Frame--got a sweet deal on some Westin's!)

• Install Wheel opening Trim (not OEM but giving it a shot)

And the Spring List:

• Stud/Dent work on the Wheel Tubs, reshoot the affected areas of the bed

• Pinstriping

• Reupholster the Bench (I have an 87+ Bench in it--was changed out before I came into possession at some point)

• Change Headliner back to stock (green hunting motif up there now)

• Dash: crack repair--likely using the open up crack/bondo method. SEM paint to match. AND Still need to figure out how to repair the speaker grill area.

• Tearing into the back brakes--Just want to look--seems to be sticking when park brake is released)

• New tires. 305s on it now--want to scale back--255, 265.

And I have not even mentioned all I have to do to the Harley--but that's another forum.

Cheers!

 

[AmericanSavage]

So here's the plan:

I received the LARES new C2 today. it looks great. It came with a nut, washer, and bolt--I assume to press on the new pulley.

I returned the Water pump yesterday, and with all the coupons I had, ordered one from Advance, for rather cheap.

Given that the int. shaft is shot and not fixable, I decided to go with a Borgeson. My only question is the 980 or 985. Anyone have experience with both? Is dampening really necessary. I noted in the Borgeson cat, that they mention it is for low profile tires, and other stiff rides. Thoughts?

When all the parts arrive, and I am sure they will fit, I will order the Blue Top. I want to do all this at once.

So here's the list of what I am going to do over the break (if lucky) that I tried to stave off until closer to Spring. Oh well--the immediate list:

• Replace Water pump

• Replace C2

• Replace Gear Box (Upgrade)

• Replace Intermediate Shaft (upgrade)

• Install Step Bars (mounted to Frame--got a sweet deal on some Westin's!)

• Install Wheel opening Trim (not OEM but giving it a shot)

And the Spring List:

• Stud/Dent work on the Wheel Tubs, reshoot the affected areas of the bed

• Pinstriping

• Reupholster the Bench (I have an 87+ Bench in it--was changed out before I came into possession at some point)

• Change Headliner back to stock (green hunting motif up there now)

• Dash: crack repair--likely using the open up crack/bondo method. SEM paint to match. AND Still need to figure out how to repair the speaker grill area.

• Tearing into the back brakes--Just want to look--seems to be sticking when park brake is released)

• New tires. 305s on it now--want to scale back--255, 265.

And I have not even mentioned all I have to do to the Harley--but that's another forum.

Cheers!

A BAD cold/cough wayliad me for a week. So, I am finally at the point of ordering the gear box.

I am going to order new bolts too. LMC states they have 7/16-14 x5 ¼ bolts for the box. Washers are extra. Expensive.

Most people can easily find the 5 ½ bolts online or maybe at a hardware store. But it is rather difficult to do so. Search for 5.25 on length and you will find some grade 8s for relatively more affordable price than even LMC.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

A BAD cold/cough wayliad me for a week. So, I am finally at the point of ordering the gear box.

I am going to order new bolts too. LMC states they have 7/16-14 x5 ¼ bolts for the box. Washers are extra. Expensive.

Most people can easily find the 5 ½ bolts online or maybe at a hardware store. But it is rather difficult to do so. Search for 5.25 on length and you will find some grade 8s for relatively more affordable price than even LMC.

I think the issue is not having threads digging into the frame rail.

The factory bolts have a long shank at full diameter.

[AmericanSavage]

I think the issue is not having threads digging into the frame rail.

The factory bolts have a long shank at full diameter.

I thought the length was related to the threads running out on the gear box side?

Got this today. It will definitely need painting!

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think the issue is not having threads digging into the frame rail.

The factory bolts have a long shank at full diameter.

I thought the length was related to the threads running out on the gear box side?

Got this today. It will definitely need painting!

Oh, that's nice!

How much do you need to cut the shaft down?

ASME says bolts under 6" should get threads 2x diameter plus 1/4" (so 1 1/8" of threads on a 7/16 diameter)

I don't recall how thick my frame was when I changed the steering box.

Fortunately the factory bolts were in good shape and I reused them.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Oh, that's nice!

How much do you need to cut the shaft down?

ASME says bolts under 6" should get threads 2x diameter plus 1/4" (so 1 1/8" of threads on a 7/16 diameter)

I don't recall how thick my frame was when I changed the steering box.

Fortunately the factory bolts were in good shape and I reused them.

Yes, that steering shaft is very nice. Should take a whole lot of slop out.