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I'm not sure about your 400 but on my 460 I removed the hard to access manifold stud and now use a socket head cap screw (Allen bolt) to clamp that side of the head pipe flange.

This also lets you use a ball end Allen socket to provide even more clearance. đź’ˇ

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n125157/Z1pM3zmcpEx_.jpg

I'm not sure about your 400 but on my 460 I removed the hard to access manifold stud and now use a socket head cap screw (Allen bolt) to clamp that side of the head pipe flange.

This also lets you use a ball end Allen socket to provide even more clearance. đź’ˇ

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n125157/Z1pM3zmcpEx_.jpg

This is a great idea. I noticed that my flange nuts are all brass. This is likely why I was able to get them off so easily—with the help of blaster. If I did that, I would most likely want brass because it does NOT rust to the threads.

I am a little perplexed by the thread and size—3/8-16 or are they 7/8-14? There is a nut one can get that looks like this (below).

The depth of the nut would solve the problem because it would move the ability to grab on it with a socket possible. The problem is it is 3/8, and 3/8 seems loose on my nuts, but 7/8 starts and then gets tight.

Anyone know what those studs off the exhaust manifold are?

UPDATE: I did some sleuthing around here, and at FE and eventually wound up at Dorman—the company states 3/8-16 are direct fit for 351m/400 and also list the year of my truck—sooooo I will find some TALL brass nuts.

Only thing, my 3/8-16 tap is a bit loose for my liking (the 7.8 starts and stops—so 3/8s it is. The 3/8 grabs but there is play. What happens under, say, 30lbs torque?

Screen_Shot_2022-09-26_at_9.png.96e50a72639a9faa65f6c37561ecb08d.png

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I'm not sure about your 400 but on my 460 I removed the hard to access manifold stud and now use a socket head cap screw (Allen bolt) to clamp that side of the head pipe flange.

This also lets you use a ball end Allen socket to provide even more clearance. đź’ˇ

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n125157/Z1pM3zmcpEx_.jpg

I'm not sure about your 400 but on my 460 I removed the hard to access manifold stud and now use a socket head cap screw (Allen bolt) to clamp that side of the head pipe flange.

This also lets you use a ball end Allen socket to provide even more clearance. đź’ˇ

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n125157/Z1pM3zmcpEx_.jpg

This is a great idea. I noticed that my flange nuts are all brass. This is likely why I was able to get them off so easily—with the help of blaster. If I did that, I would most likely want brass because it does NOT rust to the threads.

I am a little perplexed by the thread and size—3/8-16 or are they 7/8-14? There is a nut one can get that looks like this (below).

The depth of the nut would solve the problem because it would move the ability to grab on it with a socket possible. The problem is it is 3/8, and 3/8 seems loose on my nuts, but 7/8 starts and then gets tight.

Anyone know what those studs off the exhaust manifold are?

UPDATE: I did some sleuthing around here, and at FE and eventually wound up at Dorman—the company states 3/8-16 are direct fit for 351m/400 and also list the year of my truck—sooooo I will find some TALL brass nuts.

Only thing, my 3/8-16 tap is a bit loose for my liking (the 7.8 starts and stops—so 3/8s it is. The 3/8 grabs but there is play. What happens under, say, 30lbs torque?

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I'd think it's 3/8-16. That's a pretty common fastener size on this era engine.

7/16-14 is used for bellhousing bolts.

I can't explain why your nut is such a loose fit on the tap.

Maybe it is worn from running over a harder, and rusty, steel stud?

Did it seem exceptionally loose when you removed it?

I still like your hex cap workaround--but would love to find brass made ones and I cannot.

I found some tall brass nuts coming and will test them out and let you know about the threads. Cheers and thanks!

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I'd think it's 3/8-16. That's a pretty common fastener size on this era engine.

7/16-14 is used for bellhousing bolts.

I can't explain why your nut is such a loose fit on the tap.

Maybe it is worn from running over a harder, and rusty, steel stud?

Did it seem exceptionally loose when you removed it?

I still like your hex cap workaround--but would love to find brass made ones and I cannot.

I found some tall brass nuts coming and will test them out and let you know about the threads. Cheers and thanks!

I don't think you'd find brass fasteners like that anywhere.

The Dorman kit seems popular and readily available. :nabble_smiley_good:

The stainless Allen bolt is working for me..... for now.

It allows me some more clearance with the Zf-5 gearbox, and I think Gary ran into this as well (before he had his L&L headers)

One thing that seems to be pretty common in motorsports applications is copper plated nuts and bolts for turbo applications where heat and corrosion are huge problems.

But I mostly see them only in metric.

I'd considered DIY copper plating which is quite simple but ended up using stainless steel.

Good luck with your project! :nabble_crossed-fingers-20-pixel_orig::nabble_crossed-fingers-20-pixel_orig:

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I don't think you'd find brass fasteners like that anywhere.

The Dorman kit seems popular and readily available. :nabble_smiley_good:

The stainless Allen bolt is working for me..... for now.

It allows me some more clearance with the Zf-5 gearbox, and I think Gary ran into this as well (before he had his L&L headers)

One thing that seems to be pretty common in motorsports applications is copper plated nuts and bolts for turbo applications where heat and corrosion are huge problems.

But I mostly see them only in metric.

I'd considered DIY copper plating which is quite simple but ended up using stainless steel.

Good luck with your project! :nabble_crossed-fingers-20-pixel_orig::nabble_crossed-fingers-20-pixel_orig:

UPDATE:

I received the tall brass hex nuts—drumroll please….NOT 3/8 studs on the exhaust. They are most definitely 7/16-14.

So, I was not planning to return the ones I received, I decided to test one to make sure (I received 6 so, why not?). I drilled out slightly, and retapped to 7/16-14.

I then tested on the stud. PERFECT fit.

I thought about ordering tall brass 7/16, but, they are hard to find. Oh you can find them—in packs of 25. Not sure if my drilling out a bit will harm the construction of the brass for torque of 30lbs (I believe that is the spec called for), but I will when the time comes.

Drained the antifreeze today. Have to see how I am going to raise the engine. I think I need to unbolt the entire mount from the block before raising so I can remove it to get to 4 of the plugs. Not a fun project I must say.

 

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UPDATE:

I received the tall brass hex nuts—drumroll please….NOT 3/8 studs on the exhaust. They are most definitely 7/16-14.

So, I was not planning to return the ones I received, I decided to test one to make sure (I received 6 so, why not?). I drilled out slightly, and retapped to 7/16-14.

I then tested on the stud. PERFECT fit.

I thought about ordering tall brass 7/16, but, they are hard to find. Oh you can find them—in packs of 25. Not sure if my drilling out a bit will harm the construction of the brass for torque of 30lbs (I believe that is the spec called for), but I will when the time comes.

Drained the antifreeze today. Have to see how I am going to raise the engine. I think I need to unbolt the entire mount from the block before raising so I can remove it to get to 4 of the plugs. Not a fun project I must say.

Well done! That’s just what I would have done in that situation.

And yes, you will have to unbolt one side or the other of the mounts, as well as a few other things in order to raise the engine.

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Well done! That’s just what I would have done in that situation.

And yes, you will have to unbolt one side or the other of the mounts, as well as a few other things in order to raise the engine.

Thank you Gary, you are the best.

I have unbolted these things:

  • the clutch linkage—going to replace with new bushing, new boot, etc so I have taken it all off

  • exhaust at the manifolds

  • motor mount nuts at brackets

  • removed air cleaner

  • unbolted dipstick—not for raising, but for dropping pan, and replacing it after

  • Trans mount bolts loosened all the way without falling off

  • loosened and freed fan shroud

I have enough play in the radiator hose, but I may remove one side top and bottom if it needs it.

The power steering has enough hose slack, so, no need there I do not think. Fuel line is hose to the pump and then clamps onto a solid line—so there’s slack there.

Am I misisng anything?

 

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Well done! That’s just what I would have done in that situation.

And yes, you will have to unbolt one side or the other of the mounts, as well as a few other things in order to raise the engine.

Thank you Gary, you are the best.

I have unbolted these things:

  • the clutch linkage—going to replace with new bushing, new boot, etc so I have taken it all off

  • exhaust at the manifolds

  • motor mount nuts at brackets

  • removed air cleaner

  • unbolted dipstick—not for raising, but for dropping pan, and replacing it after

  • Trans mount bolts loosened all the way without falling off

  • loosened and freed fan shroud

I have enough play in the radiator hose, but I may remove one side top and bottom if it needs it.

The power steering has enough hose slack, so, no need there I do not think. Fuel line is hose to the pump and then clamps onto a solid line—so there’s slack there.

Am I misisng anything?

Sorry, I'm on a cruise so wasn't in a position to reply. But it looks like you have it well in hand. :nabble_anim_claps:

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Sorry, I'm on a cruise so wasn't in a position to reply. But it looks like you have it well in hand. :nabble_anim_claps:

Cruise to where? Nice!

And thank you as always. Have run into roadblocks though, will relate in another post.

NYC to Montreal.... with a little hurricane thrown in just for fun.

Good luck with your other challenges! :nabble_smiley_good:

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