Diary of a Restore (Thread)

[ArdWrknTrk]

OK, so while I waited for the weatherstrip to come, I went to the pick and retrieved a headliner off a 86 truck. It was aftermarket and the board was new. The headliner itself is not stock—green fall leaves. This means that I will order a new headliner at some point to fir the stock interior, but the board itself was in excellent shape, and it fit. $20 was a bargain.

So, I have been detailing the interior a bit, and repairing the dome light connectors. Found many of those breakable things at the pick.

While I have been waiting, I decided to crawl under the truck. I greased all the fittings and looked around. I have a few questions/issues.

1. The oil pan leaks from where, it seems, the gasket was crushed in several places. I am thinking a 4 piece milodon. I assume a single piece would not be finagled into place without dropping the whole pan. But, I do not know how difficult this would be to not jack the engine and work with the pan in place resting on the cross. Can it be changed without jacking up the engine? Looks tight in the front.

Gary, I noticed on your blue restore you used what looks like corner reinforcements on your pan. Where did you get them?

2. The front differential looks…god awful. No drain plug, so I need to siphon it out (same for rear diff). I have 75-90 to replace (I cannot find an exact rec from Ford other than a part # which seems like it is lighter than 80-90. I have the normal 80-90 for the rear. So, what does anyone use to siphon oil? See pic.

The rear diff, transmission oil looks good, but I will probably replace the fluids. I have the rear limited slip fluid (Motorcraft, 4oz) to replace with it as well.

3. I have Mercon for the transfer, but I have a drain plug and that looks easy enough.

Does anyone use a pressurized system to fill all these back up? What do you use? I suppose one could use the jugs it came with and drill for a hose through the cap, and an air compressor line to pressurize it by drilling another hole in the jug at the top.

You can get a suction gun (big metal syringe) at Horrid Fate for $12.

This can work for both emptying and filling a diff.

But I'll say that Valvoline (and Amsoil) now offer gear lube in a bag with a long(ish) spout.

This makes filling a whole lot easier.

[AmericanSavage]

You can get a suction gun (big metal syringe) at Horrid Fate for $12.

This can work for both emptying and filling a diff.

But I'll say that Valvoline (and Amsoil) now offer gear lube in a bag with a long(ish) spout.

This makes filling a whole lot easier.

I went out and got one today! It worked fairly well. I know some was left, but I got most of it, and then filled. It took nearly all of the spec--so, I got all of it but about .3 of the 2 quarts it requires. I will probably do another round of this after some time in order to clean the gunk out, unless, of course, I need to drop the front diff for some reason.

Thank you for the advice. Helpful!

[ArdWrknTrk]

You can get a suction gun (big metal syringe) at Horrid Fate for $12.

This can work for both emptying and filling a diff.

But I'll say that Valvoline (and Amsoil) now offer gear lube in a bag with a long(ish) spout.

This makes filling a whole lot easier.

I went out and got one today! It worked fairly well. I know some was left, but I got most of it, and then filled. It took nearly all of the spec--so, I got all of it but about .3 of the 2 quarts it requires. I will probably do another round of this after some time in order to clean the gunk out, unless, of course, I need to drop the front diff for some reason.

Thank you for the advice. Helpful!

I'm glad that worked out for you.

I know my front axle doesn't get the attention it deserves because there is no easy drain.

(It did get fresh seals and oil in March when I had most of the front end replaced)

[AmericanSavage]

I'm glad that worked out for you.

I know my front axle doesn't get the attention it deserves because there is no easy drain.

(It did get fresh seals and oil in March when I had most of the front end replaced)

A little Update:

Today i began reprepping some of the areas I shot in the dead of heat that resulted in dryspray effect. I thought it was technique, or possibly the heat, and/or in combo with the activator quickness.

I sanded down some spots, and went lightly over the dryspray areas with a rather mild sand paper on the DA.

The result? heat was the issue. Everything looks better with what I did today in the mild temps, but my technique revealed a few areas of drip, which means, sand and touch up tomorrow.

I am close to being done with the body. After that, I am thinking of tackling the interior, and first the dash. I have cracks that are not too bad, but enough that makes me want to fix it. Buying a new dash is out of the question—I want to keep what I have and learn how to repair it. I see @fuzzface2 has some knowledge of this in another forum, and there are several options, but it seems fleece and resin are the best options. There's a lot of discussion on this at F Enthusiasts. Others use bondo glass, and vinyl, but that takes a lot of skill, and I am not sure I like the look of the vinyl even when done correctly. I am open to suggestions here.

I only have a couple cracks, and the grill needs replaced. Ideas anyone?

OH Gary! I saw your (and Reamer) excellent speaker grill mock up and 3d print project. I WANT one. How to get? I checked Shapeways to no avail.

 

[Gary Lewis]

A little Update:

Today i began reprepping some of the areas I shot in the dead of heat that resulted in dryspray effect. I thought it was technique, or possibly the heat, and/or in combo with the activator quickness.

I sanded down some spots, and went lightly over the dryspray areas with a rather mild sand paper on the DA.

The result? heat was the issue. Everything looks better with what I did today in the mild temps, but my technique revealed a few areas of drip, which means, sand and touch up tomorrow.

I am close to being done with the body. After that, I am thinking of tackling the interior, and first the dash. I have cracks that are not too bad, but enough that makes me want to fix it. Buying a new dash is out of the question—I want to keep what I have and learn how to repair it. I see @fuzzface2 has some knowledge of this in another forum, and there are several options, but it seems fleece and resin are the best options. There's a lot of discussion on this at F Enthusiasts. Others use bondo glass, and vinyl, but that takes a lot of skill, and I am not sure I like the look of the vinyl even when done correctly. I am open to suggestions here.

I only have a couple cracks, and the grill needs replaced. Ideas anyone?

OH Gary! I saw your (and Reamer) excellent speaker grill mock up and 3d print project. I WANT one. How to get? I checked Shapeways to no avail.

Cool! Literally! Glad you are getting the paint sorted.

On the dash patch, you'll need to contact Reamer.

[AmericanSavage]

You can get a suction gun (big metal syringe) at Horrid Fate for $12.

This can work for both emptying and filling a diff.

But I'll say that Valvoline (and Amsoil) now offer gear lube in a bag with a long(ish) spout.

This makes filling a whole lot easier.

I took a few days off. 5 months of constant work on the truck without a break…let’s just say I needed down time.

I have some things to touchup on the paint, which will likely happen this weekend.

I have some brackets to fashion for the exhaust—the only thing holding it up is a hanger at the glass pack. The rest were cut. I have no idea why.

I also have to start thinking about how/where I am going to fabricate wheel tubs for the bed. There are none for our year truck sold. One could buy aftermarket type tub, but it will not have the same contours. So, that will need to be done, maybe hitting up a shop to see if they can English Wheel a pair for me (that is the correct definition yes? English Wheel?)

I also need to start thinking about a reupholster of the 1987 style bench seat I have in the truck. One option is to spend the 700 and buy a kit. Another is to take it to a shop. Anyone have experience with the kits?

Then, of course, there’s any mechanical issues, and the remaining freeze plugs will necessitate me taking it to a friend for service as I do not have the space or equipment to pull it off. While there, maybe have him drop the pan, but I know I can do that part myself.

At any rate, here are some pics!

[Gary Lewis]

I took a few days off. 5 months of constant work on the truck without a break…let’s just say I needed down time.

I have some things to touchup on the paint, which will likely happen this weekend.

I have some brackets to fashion for the exhaust—the only thing holding it up is a hanger at the glass pack. The rest were cut. I have no idea why.

I also have to start thinking about how/where I am going to fabricate wheel tubs for the bed. There are none for our year truck sold. One could buy aftermarket type tub, but it will not have the same contours. So, that will need to be done, maybe hitting up a shop to see if they can English Wheel a pair for me (that is the correct definition yes? English Wheel?)

I also need to start thinking about a reupholster of the 1987 style bench seat I have in the truck. One option is to spend the 700 and buy a kit. Another is to take it to a shop. Anyone have experience with the kits?

Then, of course, there’s any mechanical issues, and the remaining freeze plugs will necessitate me taking it to a friend for service as I do not have the space or equipment to pull it off. While there, maybe have him drop the pan, but I know I can do that part myself.

At any rate, here are some pics!

It looks great! You are going to be so proud of it!

But why are you needing wheel tubs? I've forgotten. But yes, an English wheel can be used to make them.

[AmericanSavage]

It looks great! You are going to be so proud of it!

But why are you needing wheel tubs? I've forgotten. But yes, an English wheel can be used to make them.

The inner bed tubs are pretty banged up--beyong pulling out the dents. I painted, but was not happy to do it without replacing both. So, I knew I would have to revisit this issue. I need to cut them out and redo both tubs inside the bed.

[Gary Lewis]

The inner bed tubs are pretty banged up--beyong pulling out the dents. I painted, but was not happy to do it without replacing both. So, I knew I would have to revisit this issue. I need to cut them out and redo both tubs inside the bed.

Oh, ok. I'm not sure exactly what this is, but have you looked at this from Tabco?

 

[AmericanSavage]

Oh, ok. I'm not sure exactly what this is, but have you looked at this from Tabco?

Hi Gary,

Sorry for the late response. Been traveling, and taking a break from things. I did some paint touch up with mixed success. But, the truck looks fairly decent to me even though there are spots I am not satisfied with.

But, I am going to need to get back to it. This oil leak has me bothered.

I THINK that piece is for the inner (I know it says outer meaning I think, outside the bed) wheelhouse--that is, the wheel tub in the bed, has a panel under it--that is it covers from around the rear wheel to about half the the tub in the bed and is welded together. I have one of those, complete with the holes in the pic.

I got one because I thought I would need it, and ended up not needing it. LMC calls it an inner wheel arch: https://www.lmctruck.com/1980-96-ford/bed-tailgate/fd-1980-86-styleside-bed-patch-panels

The piece is smaller than the wheel tub inside the bed, and has a tighter radius, because it is under the wheel tub--I think to give it support and protect the tub from rust.

I am not sure but am I correct that your link is the same?