Diary of a Restore (Thread)

[ArdWrknTrk]

Not sure which "his site" you mean, but go to Documentation/Electrical/3G Conversion and then go to the Ammeter & Voltmeter tab. There you'll find a modified page from the EVTM.

And I would not cut the traces as you cannot easily put that back. And while you could de-pin the connector then you have to run new wires. I prefer to use the wires that are already there and just add the relay.

But Jim is right, you could use some source of key-on power. However, that will get you the voltage after whatever devices that circuit powers, which will change from time to time depending on what you pick. The relay approach gets you true battery voltage.

Having said that, the voltmeter's scale has no numbers, so in reality it doesn't make much difference.

Gary, even with your relay to ground setup you still need a source of key on power...

To avoid the relay you could unpin 654 from C610 and take it directly to ground.

Unpin 65 from that connector and tap the blower motor feed (181at C603) which is a key on 30A fused BR/OR wire.

This would put the revised voltmeter on a low resistance circuit, before any appreciable load.

Voltmeters take barely anything to budge the needle.

This second schematic is from the '81 EVTM (and I know there are some flex circuit differences) but the '80 manual format won't let me cut & paste the image.

[AmericanSavage]

Gary, even with your relay to ground setup you still need a source of key on power...

To avoid the relay you could unpin 654 from C610 and take it directly to ground.

Unpin 65 from that connector and tap the blower motor feed (181at C603) which is a key on 30A fused BR/OR wire.

This would put the revised voltmeter on a low resistance circuit, before any appreciable load.

Voltmeters take barely anything to budge the needle.

Hey Jim,

Yes, Rocketman is quite explicit about the key on source.

On the 80 EVTM could simply take a screen shot—easy on the mac—Shift>cmd>4 then drag the area with a mouse…instant snapshot.

I have a key on under the dash just sitting there—I think for radio or maybe a clock???? I will get the color of wire today to figure out what it is today. I planned on snipping the connector end and transferring to deutch connector today. Also, gonna try to retrieve my broken ammeter today as well. The only thing I hate to do is cut into that new printed circuit. Why not shrink tube part of the post, and then cover in a rubber spacer with nylon washer?

Headliner comes off today as well.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary, even with your relay to ground setup you still need a source of key on power...

To avoid the relay you could unpin 654 from C610 and take it directly to ground.

Unpin 65 from that connector and tap the blower motor feed (181at C603) which is a key on 30A fused BR/OR wire.

This would put the revised voltmeter on a low resistance circuit, before any appreciable load.

Voltmeters take barely anything to budge the needle.

Hey Jim,

Yes, Rocketman is quite explicit about the key on source.

On the 80 EVTM could simply take a screen shot—easy on the mac—Shift>cmd>4 then drag the area with a mouse…instant snapshot.

I have a key on under the dash just sitting there—I think for radio or maybe a clock???? I will get the color of wire today to figure out what it is today. I planned on snipping the connector end and transferring to deutch connector today. Also, gonna try to retrieve my broken ammeter today as well. The only thing I hate to do is cut into that new printed circuit. Why not shrink tube part of the post, and then cover in a rubber spacer with nylon washer?

Headliner comes off today as well.

Do NOT cut your flex circuit.

I'm not sure where you got that advice.

Install exactly as the old ammeter and use the existing wires from under the hood.

Unpin the R/O & Y/LG ammeter wires at the 610 connector by the shunt near the starter relay on the right inner fender (shown as either side of the ammeter in the schematic above)

Gary has power going to the meter all the time and uses a relay to pull it to ground.

..... he still needs an unspecified key on to trigger that relay)

I'm saying to take the shunt connections and make one ground and the other key on (and accy) from the blower motor connector, which is close by.

This avoids the worst of the dash wiring resistance.

I don't know what wire you are considering, but my "logic" still holds.

Edit: clock has power all the time (obviously)

It could be radio, if you don't have one.

I'm not intimately familiar with the 1980 dash wiring but you should be able to identify it by color code.

[ArdWrknTrk]

On the 80 EVTM could simply take a screen shot—easy on the mac—Shift>cmd>4 then drag the area with a mouse…instant snapshot.

Unfortunately my means of interacting with this forum is an old Android phone.

Screwing around with screenshots involves opening multiple tabs, scrolling those multiple pages of the '80 EVTM, holding power and volume down, then going back up a level to reach the tab I'm posting in (that's IF my post doesn't drop into the void while navigating multiple pages) then clicking insert image, my files, selecting the screenshot and uploading it into my post.

It is MUCH easier to long hold and open the EVTM jpg, copy and paste the jpg's URL into my post.

The ammeter and 1G charge circuits don't appear much different to me across years except a few pins of no consequence on the flex.

 

[AmericanSavage]

On the 80 EVTM could simply take a screen shot—easy on the mac—Shift>cmd>4 then drag the area with a mouse…instant snapshot.

Unfortunately my means of interacting with this forum is an old Android phone.

Screwing around with screenshots involves opening multiple tabs, scrolling those multiple pages of the '80 EVTM, holding power and volume down, then going back up a level to reach the tab I'm posting in (that's IF my post doesn't drop into the void while navigating multiple pages) then clicking insert image, my files, selecting the screenshot and uploading it into my post.

It is MUCH easier to long hold and open the EVTM jpg, copy and paste the jpg's URL into my post.

The ammeter and 1G charge circuits don't appear much different to me across years except a few pins of no consequence on the flex.

Tell me what page you want from the 1980 and I will do it and upload it for you! Happy to help!

[ArdWrknTrk]

On the 80 EVTM could simply take a screen shot—easy on the mac—Shift>cmd>4 then drag the area with a mouse…instant snapshot.

Unfortunately my means of interacting with this forum is an old Android phone.

Screwing around with screenshots involves opening multiple tabs, scrolling those multiple pages of the '80 EVTM, holding power and volume down, then going back up a level to reach the tab I'm posting in (that's IF my post doesn't drop into the void while navigating multiple pages) then clicking insert image, my files, selecting the screenshot and uploading it into my post.

It is MUCH easier to long hold and open the EVTM jpg, copy and paste the jpg's URL into my post.

The ammeter and 1G charge circuits don't appear much different to me across years except a few pins of no consequence on the flex.

Tell me what page you want from the 1980 and I will do it and upload it for you! Happy to help!

Thanks, but I just wanted you to see which circuits I was talking about to wire your truck for a voltmeter (if you decide to)

You see the blower power in the left side on pg. 80 of the '81 EVTM above.

Ford was very good about keeping circuit numbers and wire colors consistent across years.

It's not that I can't take and post screenshots. It's just fiddly from my phone.

[AmericanSavage]

Got the ammeter out—sure enough it is cracked. Will be sending to Rocketman.

Old Headliner out, new headliner in. That Lokweld is fabulous to shoot. Lots of careful wire wheel on a slow drill. Much repair using resin/fiberglass for some areas, then wrapped the ends in alum. foil high heat capable. All that to save the headliner board. I do have pics if anyone is interested.

Also, here are the 2 switched wires—wht/ppl (or blue) and wht/green

Isn’t that the Bronco harness for the rear window? Are these in all f series trucks?

I need to figure out if BOTH are switch hot, or just one Either way, I am going to deutsch it….

Up next—minor interior work including on the visors…then the slow reinstall.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Got the ammeter out—sure enough it is cracked. Will be sending to Rocketman.

Old Headliner out, new headliner in. That Lokweld is fabulous to shoot. Lots of careful wire wheel on a slow drill. Much repair using resin/fiberglass for some areas, then wrapped the ends in alum. foil high heat capable. All that to save the headliner board. I do have pics if anyone is interested.

Also, here are the 2 switched wires—wht/ppl (or blue) and wht/green

Isn’t that the Bronco harness for the rear window? Are these in all f series trucks?

I need to figure out if BOTH are switch hot, or just one Either way, I am going to deutsch it….

Up next—minor interior work including on the visors…then the slow reinstall.

Key on or Accy.

White/Purple doesn't seem to appear in the Bronco window up\down harness but it does show up as digital clock, 4wd indicator, rear window deicer, speed control and aux heater as fuse 6 (15A)

For the pickups it's clock illumination, 4x4 indicator and auxiliary battery.

Edit: 1980 screenshot showing u&f series side by side.....

[AmericanSavage]

Key on or Accy.

White/Purple doesn't seem to appear in the Bronco window up\down harness but it does show up as digital clock, 4wd indicator, rear window deicer, speed control and aux heater as fuse 6 (15A)

For the pickups it's clock illumination, 4x4 indicator and auxiliary battery.

Edit: 1980 screenshot showing u&f series side by side.....

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n139185/Screenshot_2023-08-05-15-13-16-511.jpeg

That was my first thought too, until I talked myself out of it, because, of the wht/green type wire fused to it in a single connector. What is the wht/grn?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Key on or Accy.

White/Purple doesn't seem to appear in the Bronco window up\down harness but it does show up as digital clock, 4wd indicator, rear window deicer, speed control and aux heater as fuse 6 (15A)

For the pickups it's clock illumination, 4x4 indicator and auxiliary battery.

Edit: 1980 screenshot showing u&f series side by side.....

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n139185/Screenshot_2023-08-05-15-13-16-511.jpeg

That was my first thought too, until I talked myself out of it, because, of the wht/green type wire fused to it in a single connector. What is the wht/grn?

I must not be looking at the same picture as you.

I only see the two white/purple wires.

This is one instance that the EVTM will drive you crazy.

They only show the circuits in whatever chapter.

There is no full wiring diagram anywhere in the book.