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Diary of a Restore (Thread)


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I'm looking at a different manual as this is on 11-14-2. But it says:

19. While rotating the wheel, tighten the adjusting nut to 163-189 N • m (120-140 ft. lb.) using special tool Hex Locknut Wrench T70T-4252-D or Octal Locknut Wrench T70T-4252-E. Back off the adjusting nut enough to get a 0.025-0.254 mm (0.001-0.010 inch) end play. This should require 1/8 to 3/8 turn. Position the locking wedge in the key way slot and pound wedge into position (Fig. 6)

Doesn't yours say to back it off?

Yes, after reaching the 120, it says back it off until there is appropriate end play. At the moment, it is sitting as you described above to the lower torque spec, then backed it off to the next ear slot I would bend over ear. I did not have to back it off far. I can redo it, but that is where it sits now.

I should say, the nut I could take off by hand, it was that loose, when I first tore into the rear end there.

If you backed off to the next slot you should be good.

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Got the sleeve on this morning, and set the drum in place. I packed the bearings with a light grease as Light recommends. Will torque down later as the sleeve needs to set—added a little red loctite to it.

I heated the sleeve in the oven at 200, and given it was difficult to find a tube/pvc/exhaust pipe that fit right, used this reinforced cardboard tube a guy gave to me at NAPA. It worked great.

The spec for this is odd to me: T to 50-80 ft lbs, then back off, and torque again to 120-140.

I was expecting a 2-9/16 nut here….but instead I found this. I had the tool that I bought for my Dads 73 chevy at 16 still on me, and it worked—6 ear socket. Maybe this is better than the nut and the plastic/metal locking key?

At any rate, pics:

That sleeve looks like it will do the trick.

Be very careful not to knick your new seal getting it over that edge.

Thank you! :nabble_anim_handshake:

I try to help when I can, but I don't know much about the D61 (specifically)

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Yes, my grandfather’s name, Walter, as Radar, but an even better name in real life. Decoding it would be “brave warrior” in a “castle courtyard “: Gary Burghoff.

Driver’s side looks much better.

Did not have time to finish it off—rain.

I do have one concern: I have an inner wheel bearing RACE that seems to be loose, and spins a little inside the hub. Everything from the bearing to the race looks good in terms of wear—someone definitely put in new bearings before I got it. But, I do not think the race should have any slop in it. New rear hub may be in my future?

Will test brakes, I hope this weekend.

Cheers to you, and you beat me to Walter! Now, I am going to get my Grape Nehi and relax.

IMG_2344.thumb.jpeg.9d2fd9e113fc16d8498a1432267022a7.jpeg

 

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Driver’s side looks much better.

Did not have time to finish it off—rain.

I do have one concern: I have an inner wheel bearing RACE that seems to be loose, and spins a little inside the hub. Everything from the bearing to the race looks good in terms of wear—someone definitely put in new bearings before I got it. But, I do not think the race should have any slop in it. New rear hub may be in my future?

Will test brakes, I hope this weekend.

Cheers to you, and you beat me to Walter! Now, I am going to get my Grape Nehi and relax.

Obviously someone was in there changing bearings if they cut a race off the other side.

You say that the race moves around in the hub?

Is there any radial play at all?

Is there any marks or scoring that makes you think it spun?

If it's just a slip fit with no play I would probably install with bearing retainer.

There's a reason Loctite and Permatex sell these green formulas.

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