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Diary of a Restore (Thread)


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I've not tried that. But it would be cool if you could - assuming it would hold a nut in rather than eject it.

There’s these critters,

https://www.amazon.com/Lang-Tools-522-19-Piece-Magnetic/dp/B00ILLNSY0/ref=asc_df_B00ILLNSY0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309811990469&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5979608605695343267&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033130&hvtargid=pla-570695753503&psc=1

I used to ball up masking tape sticky side out and put them in my sockets.

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So you are saying the magnet doesn't stick well enough to the bottom of the socket, so you use a ball of masking tape to hold it in?

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So you are saying the magnet doesn't stick well enough to the bottom of the socket, so you use a ball of masking tape to hold it in?

No, I never bought those, someone else had them.

I just used masking tape. One thing I liked is masking tape is just sticky enough so that the socket doesn’t stick to the nut when I pulled the ratchet out of whatever tight spot I was in.

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I've not tried that. But it would be cool if you could - assuming it would hold a nut in rather than eject it.

A magnet can't reject something that isn't already magnetized.

I have some ring neodymium magnets that are big enough to fit over a 1/4" extension up against the back of a socket.

They hold.

Like the others here I usually grab a shop towel, tape or whatever is handy

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A magnet can't reject something that isn't already magnetized.

I have some ring neodymium magnets that are big enough to fit over a 1/4" extension up against the back of a socket.

They hold.

Like the others here I usually grab a shop towel, tape or whatever is handy

To all:

I love this idea—a paper towel or magnet—that MIGHT be the way to get the motor mount back IN.

I can see the bolt (with a mirror), and even put my hand on it….but the space is tight to get it started both on removal and installation. I can get a socket on it, but had little success in getting the ratchet to function. Hence, this may take a combo universal snap on, and various extensions with the paper towel/magnet to work.

Thank you to everyone for commenting!

 

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To all:

I love this idea—a paper towel or magnet—that MIGHT be the way to get the motor mount back IN.

I can see the bolt (with a mirror), and even put my hand on it….but the space is tight to get it started both on removal and installation. I can get a socket on it, but had little success in getting the ratchet to function. Hence, this may take a combo universal snap on, and various extensions with the paper towel/magnet to work.

Thank you to everyone for commenting!

Good luck! :nabble_crossed-fingers-20-pixel_orig:

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Good luck! :nabble_crossed-fingers-20-pixel_orig:

Hey All,

I have taken a lot of time off the project—work, and cold (well cold for me), weather. I can take heat—it’s the cold I loathe to work in.

Anyway….UPDATE:

I have slowly accumulated a few things for what I hoped would be after holidays/spring work: wheel well trim, pinstripes, dent weld gun (gonna tackle that bed wheel tub issue and reshoot the interior!), etc.

On the pin stripes—I am matching to what Gary posted on his site here—Type 2 looks to be the one that most fits my year, etc.

Then, today, fired it up as I do once a week at least.

Freeze plugs are holding after using blue diamond. Still no oil leaks….BUUUUUUUUUT:

Heard a small knocking whine from someplace ONLY when the engine warms up, and crawled under. Saw 2 things: 1) looks like the junk yard power steering pump is leaking oh so slight. But that is not the source of the whine when it gets warm.

Take a guess.

2) water pump was leaking oh so slight, dropping off oil pan, hitting fan wind, and blowing onto cross member. I opened hood and peaked at the little hole on top of the water pump—anti freeze coming from it.

I am almost certain that little knocking whine is coming from the pump—like a bearing is failing. SO, it looks like I will be replacing the water pump and power steering (again!).

Any advice on the water pump install/removal I am all ears. I have the light manual and I changed one several decades ago on my 86 Bronco 2, but that was ages ago.

Anyway, Merry Christmas, and Happy New Year everyone!

 

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Hey All,

I have taken a lot of time off the project—work, and cold (well cold for me), weather. I can take heat—it’s the cold I loathe to work in.

Anyway….UPDATE:

I have slowly accumulated a few things for what I hoped would be after holidays/spring work: wheel well trim, pinstripes, dent weld gun (gonna tackle that bed wheel tub issue and reshoot the interior!), etc.

On the pin stripes—I am matching to what Gary posted on his site here—Type 2 looks to be the one that most fits my year, etc.

Then, today, fired it up as I do once a week at least.

Freeze plugs are holding after using blue diamond. Still no oil leaks….BUUUUUUUUUT:

Heard a small knocking whine from someplace ONLY when the engine warms up, and crawled under. Saw 2 things: 1) looks like the junk yard power steering pump is leaking oh so slight. But that is not the source of the whine when it gets warm.

Take a guess.

2) water pump was leaking oh so slight, dropping off oil pan, hitting fan wind, and blowing onto cross member. I opened hood and peaked at the little hole on top of the water pump—anti freeze coming from it.

I am almost certain that little knocking whine is coming from the pump—like a bearing is failing. SO, it looks like I will be replacing the water pump and power steering (again!).

Any advice on the water pump install/removal I am all ears. I have the light manual and I changed one several decades ago on my 86 Bronco 2, but that was ages ago.

Anyway, Merry Christmas, and Happy New Year everyone!

I'm no 335 expert but basic things to look out for:

Be VERY careful taking the water pump bolts out. You DON'T want to break one off. 🤬

I take a sharpie and using the new pump trace a rough outline on the box and each show each bolt hole.

Then poke holes with a knife and stick each bolt in its place. (this prevents mixing up the lengths and missing any hidden fasteners)

Also use sealant on the bolts going back in (I like Loctite PST) to prevent corrosion without actually locking them in.

 

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I'm no 335 expert but basic things to look out for:

Be VERY careful taking the water pump bolts out. You DON'T want to break one off. 🤬

I take a sharpie and using the new pump trace a rough outline on the box and each show each bolt hole.

Then poke holes with a knife and stick each bolt in its place. (this prevents mixing up the lengths and missing any hidden fasteners)

Also use sealant on the bolts going back in (I like Loctite PST) to prevent corrosion without actually locking them in.

Thank you!

Been a heck of a holiday season for us—flat tires on the Chrysler (wife’s car), dishwasher circuit board tanked, Harley Ignition module tanked, and now this on the Ford. UGH!

Cheers!

 

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I'm no 335 expert but basic things to look out for:

Be VERY careful taking the water pump bolts out. You DON'T want to break one off. 🤬

I take a sharpie and using the new pump trace a rough outline on the box and each show each bolt hole.

Then poke holes with a knife and stick each bolt in its place. (this prevents mixing up the lengths and missing any hidden fasteners)

Also use sealant on the bolts going back in (I like Loctite PST) to prevent corrosion without actually locking them in.

Thank you!

Been a heck of a holiday season for us—flat tires on the Chrysler (wife’s car), dishwasher circuit board tanked, Harley Ignition module tanked, and now this on the Ford. UGH!

Cheers!

Sometimes it's one thing after another! 😖

I hope things go smoothly and you (and family) have a great holiday season!

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