ckuske Posted July 10, 2022 Share Posted July 10, 2022 Hi Everyone, I've posted about this once in my project thread, but thought I'd give an update here. Where the pressure line goes into the gearbox is leaking from area between the steel hose the inside wall of the fitting that screws into the gearbox. Picture attached (this is after cleaning it up again after running it for a minute). It's not a gusher, its a slow-ish leak but has definite flow while running. It's not a drop here and a drop there... I've tried tightening it, and also tried putting PTFE tape on the fitting, tightening it pretty snugly, and still no joy. The line is new (installed about six months ago but never driven except idling in the garage), and has been leaking like this since I installed it. I think the answer is buy another line, but am I missing something? The other side of the hose that screws into the pump is happy and dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted July 10, 2022 Share Posted July 10, 2022 I think the answer is buy another line, but am I missing something? The other side of the hose that screws into the pump is happy and dry. I'd say either dirt and debris in the flare, or the flare itself is somehow buggered up. Probably need a new line, but pull it out and inspect, and clean the hole in the steering box with a Q-tip and inspect in there, make sure there's nothing in the way preventing it from sealing. Shouldn't need anything to seal the threads, the fitting is not meant to seal on the threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 10, 2022 Share Posted July 10, 2022 I think the answer is buy another line, but am I missing something? The other side of the hose that screws into the pump is happy and dry. I'd say either dirt and debris in the flare, or the flare itself is somehow buggered up. Probably need a new line, but pull it out and inspect, and clean the hole in the steering box with a Q-tip and inspect in there, make sure there's nothing in the way preventing it from sealing. Shouldn't need anything to seal the threads, the fitting is not meant to seal on the threads. /\ /\ /\ What he said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted July 10, 2022 Author Share Posted July 10, 2022 /\ /\ /\ What he said. Thanks guys. I just took the hose out and I'm letting the system drain so I can get a nice peek at the threads etc. The new hose comes on Tuesday, hopefully I'll have an update soon after. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted July 13, 2022 Author Share Posted July 13, 2022 Thanks guys. I just took the hose out and I'm letting the system drain so I can get a nice peek at the threads etc. The new hose comes on Tuesday, hopefully I'll have an update soon after. Well, that didn't help. I got the new line, put it in, and still leaking, and in the same manner. Here is a picture of the gearbox, ignore the teflon crud. That was all cleaned out by the time I put the new line in. I'm not sure why two new lines are both leaking except the "cone" inside the gearbox has become scored or otherwise damaged so the flare in the line isn't seating correctly? Maybe I take this opportunity to get a new steering box? (even though I'm not necessarily excited about that, but it is the original with 300+ K miles on it...) And in other news, I almost finshed putting the fender, grill pieces, bumper etc back together. My hood for some reason now has about 3/8" gap when latched - everything lined up elsewhere properly and I made sure when I put the rad support back on I had the correct number of shims on each side. Obviously the first thing to look at is adjusting the fenders, but what else? I'll post another thread after I get over this steering business I suppose. Two steps forward, one step back... Sigh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted July 13, 2022 Share Posted July 13, 2022 Well, that didn't help. I got the new line, put it in, and still leaking, and in the same manner. Here is a picture of the gearbox, ignore the teflon crud. That was all cleaned out by the time I put the new line in. I'm not sure why two new lines are both leaking except the "cone" inside the gearbox has become scored or otherwise damaged so the flare in the line isn't seating correctly? Maybe I take this opportunity to get a new steering box? (even though I'm not necessarily excited about that, but it is the original with 300+ K miles on it...) And in other news, I almost finshed putting the fender, grill pieces, bumper etc back together. My hood for some reason now has about 3/8" gap when latched - everything lined up elsewhere properly and I made sure when I put the rad support back on I had the correct number of shims on each side. Obviously the first thing to look at is adjusting the fenders, but what else? I'll post another thread after I get over this steering business I suppose. Two steps forward, one step back... Sigh. who knows exactly where it is leaking? we cannot see in there while its installed. but I am curious that the leak appears between the nut and pipe. if the cone is scored to the point of not sealing then what keeps it from leaking at the threads when the nut should seat to the back of the flare at least. it is a new nut, new pipe and supposedly a well-done new flare. I hate to just say keep tightening it because I can't "feel" what you are, but I know what I would do if I was considering this gear as a rebuild candidate or a core. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 13, 2022 Share Posted July 13, 2022 who knows exactly where it is leaking? we cannot see in there while its installed. but I am curious that the leak appears between the nut and pipe. if the cone is scored to the point of not sealing then what keeps it from leaking at the threads when the nut should seat to the back of the flare at least. it is a new nut, new pipe and supposedly a well-done new flare. I hate to just say keep tightening it because I can't "feel" what you are, but I know what I would do if I was considering this gear as a rebuild candidate or a core. I've always needed a crowsfoot on a long extension to get that pressure line seated in the steering box. (There's really no way to tighten it with a normal wrench) It's not a swiveling fit so you shouldn't be shy about torquing it down. You can get a cheap set of 3/8 drive crowsfoot flare wrenches at Horrid Fate (metric or sae) for $14.99. I wouldn't normally recommend Pittsburgh, but I have a fairly nice set of Tekton and only use a few sizes, even then in a blue moon.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 13, 2022 Share Posted July 13, 2022 I've always needed a crowsfoot on a long extension to get that pressure line seated in the steering box. (There's really no way to tighten it with a normal wrench) It's not a swiveling fit so you shouldn't be shy about torquing it down. You can get a cheap set of 3/8 drive crowsfoot flare wrenches at Horrid Fate (metric or sae) for $14.99. I wouldn't normally recommend Pittsburgh, but I have a fairly nice set of Tekton and only use a few sizes, even then in a blue moon.... I had fits getting the fitting to line up properly on Big Blue. And when I did I really had to crank down on it to get it to stop leaking, so I second what Jim said. But now's the time to go with a new box if you are ever going to do it. And if you do I recommend Blue Top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted July 13, 2022 Author Share Posted July 13, 2022 I had fits getting the fitting to line up properly on Big Blue. And when I did I really had to crank down on it to get it to stop leaking, so I second what Jim said. But now's the time to go with a new box if you are ever going to do it. And if you do I recommend Blue Top. Thanks guys. I'm going to try to cinch it down more. As much as I'd like to improve the steering overall, it's not bad as-is and I really don't have the time or money into getting a new one right now (and the process looks a little daunting - I don't have the puller or torque wrenches that go that high (saw something about 200 ft/lbs). I will try to cinch it down - My 1/2" flare wrench can't get a good grip becase of the surrounding area. I used my open-ended 1/2" to this point, but since I'm gonna really tighten it now, a friend from work is going to loan me a crow's foot wrench (this is new to me) and we will see how that goes. I suppose the worst I can do is ruin this box, which will then force my hand. Oh well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 13, 2022 Share Posted July 13, 2022 Thanks guys. I'm going to try to cinch it down more. As much as I'd like to improve the steering overall, it's not bad as-is and I really don't have the time or money into getting a new one right now (and the process looks a little daunting - I don't have the puller or torque wrenches that go that high (saw something about 200 ft/lbs). I will try to cinch it down - My 1/2" flare wrench can't get a good grip becase of the surrounding area. I used my open-ended 1/2" to this point, but since I'm gonna really tighten it now, a friend from work is going to loan me a crow's foot wrench (this is new to me) and we will see how that goes. I suppose the worst I can do is ruin this box, which will then force my hand. Oh well. A crowsfoot wrench should get it tight. (a flare style crowsfoot is preferable) I find I need a longer handle ratchet to really get those lines seated. YMMV... You won't strip the cast iron steering box before the flared line conforms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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