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87 460 Carb'ed Towing Build


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Made some progress today.

After looking it over, decide it was best to remove the core support and bumper, then pull the engine.

Definitely makes a big difference.

Core support is rusted out on passenger side. I'll end up replacing it for piece of mind.

I've got everything loose, and will pull the engine tomorrow and get it on a stand.

So far so good. Everything has been moving along nicely.

Couple of questions, is there an oil pressure sensor on the back of the intake manifold? And another type of sensor?

Might pick y'all's brains on wiring upgrades including the alternator, it was definitely a fire starter, covered in oil. What a mess.

I believe there is an upgraded to the later style efi starter.

Here are some pictures to help tell the story.

The oil pressure sender is in the block, nestled between the #4 & 8 intake runners.

There may also be a oil pressure switch connected to the same port.

This is a safety feature found only on Hot Fuel Handling trucks.

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The oil pressure sender is in the block, nestled between the #4 & 8 intake runners.

There may also be a oil pressure switch connected to the same port.

This is a safety feature found only on Hot Fuel Handling trucks.

I had read about oil pressure switch for fuel pump etc, but I believe this truck has an interia switch as well. I'll have to look.

Regardless I unplugged it all and moved the harness away from the engine.

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I had read about oil pressure switch for fuel pump etc, but I believe this truck has an interia switch as well. I'll have to look.

Regardless I unplugged it all and moved the harness away from the engine.

Yes, it would have an inertia switch. That should cut off power to the fuel pump relay in the event of a hard impact.

The oil pressure switch will stop the fuel pump relay from pulling closed unless the engine has minimum oil pressure (i.e. it is running)

On the right you see that fuselink T provides full 12V while the starter is engaged.

6725744_orig.thumb.jpg.637649aacd54f9dce3f154adec0c646d.jpg

7676395_orig.thumb.jpg.1ac88bb2014f105d304a5cc1578973e5.jpg

 

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Yes, it would have an inertia switch. That should cut off power to the fuel pump relay in the event of a hard impact.

The oil pressure switch will stop the fuel pump relay from pulling closed unless the engine has minimum oil pressure (i.e. it is running)

On the right you see that fuselink T provides full 12V while the starter is engaged.

Thanks for that. I have the EVTM for '87 time to do some reading.

I have some fuseable links that aren't hooked up, need to sort them out as well.

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Thanks for that. I have the EVTM for '87 time to do some reading.

I have some fuseable links that aren't hooked up, need to sort them out as well.

And the engine is out!

Really wasn't bad. I don't know how many people's first engine pull was a big block Ford, but it wasn't that bad. Only had one small hick up with a stripped bolt head on a clutch. Cut off wheel took care of that.

Now I get to open Pandora's box this week and see what we have to work with.PXL_20220809_012630187.jpg.70c2d4496779e200d6ce63ccb7f53075.jpg

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And the engine is out!

Really wasn't bad. I don't know how many people's first engine pull was a big block Ford, but it wasn't that bad. Only had one small hick up with a stripped bolt head on a clutch. Cut off wheel took care of that.

Now I get to open Pandora's box this week and see what we have to work with.

Congrat's!!! :nabble_anim_claps:

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Congrat's!!! :nabble_anim_claps:

Glad I listened to you all. It was definitely time for a refresh.

All those years of sitting didn't help the oil. Not sure what the sludge was, but it had filled the pickup screen.

PXL_20220811_230538089.thumb.jpg.2162da3ba04bcb8005b656ab3b1a5ba2.jpg

Then the timing chain was way loose. Not sure if it was because of mileage or the nylon gear wearing?

PXL_20220811_231654592.thumb.jpg.3e313ea243ee33992690be9af7062549.jpg

PXL_20220811_231656959.thumb.jpg.2ae5d9939deb1536869f7d19d72aa761.jpg

Got everything torn down tonight, got the pistons and rods out. Definitely has some wear, but nothing that can't be polished, honed, or bored out I hope.

I'm shocked the thing still ran. These old motors could take some abuse.

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Glad I listened to you all. It was definitely time for a refresh.

All those years of sitting didn't help the oil. Not sure what the sludge was, but it had filled the pickup screen.

Then the timing chain was way loose. Not sure if it was because of mileage or the nylon gear wearing?

Got everything torn down tonight, got the pistons and rods out. Definitely has some wear, but nothing that can't be polished, honed, or bored out I hope.

I'm shocked the thing still ran. These old motors could take some abuse.

Glad you're getting it torn down Jordan!

Yes, it's pretty amazing how long a 460 will keep going (even with no oil pressure)

After break in I'd suggest running diesel oil because of its high detergent package.

I replaced my long block 14 years ago and have no sludge at all.

Chain wear is probably half the issue.it doesn't look like you have a lot of nylon shards in the pickup (mine looked like a scour pad! 😄)

Did you get a true roller chain set with the cam?

ETA: glad to see you have a sturdy engine stand! :nabble_smiley_good:

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Glad you're getting it torn down Jordan!

Yes, it's pretty amazing how long a 460 will keep going (even with no oil pressure)

After break in I'd suggest running diesel oil because of its high detergent package.

I replaced my long block 14 years ago and have no sludge at all.

Chain wear is probably half the issue.it doesn't look like you have a lot of nylon shards in the pickup (mine looked like a scour pad! 😄)

Did you get a true roller chain set with the cam?

ETA: glad to see you have a sturdy engine stand! :nabble_smiley_good:

I looked back at the thread and see a timing chain as part of Scotties package. :nabble_smiley_cool:

If you are going with aluminum heads you won't need to block the .666" Thermactor passages at the back of the heads.

Do you still want me to look for a distributor, or would you rather buy new?

(I'd have to go by the post office and see if I can fit it in a flat rate box)

Be VERY careful removing the gland but on that heater hose extension pipe from the water pump!

They are absolutely unobtainable....

If you decide to go with an L&L alternator bracket you can find a 5/8" hose nipple and connect direct.

 

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I looked back at the thread and see a timing chain as part of Scotties package. :nabble_smiley_cool:

If you are going with aluminum heads you won't need to block the .666" Thermactor passages at the back of the heads.

Do you still want me to look for a distributor, or would you rather buy new?

(I'd have to go by the post office and see if I can fit it in a flat rate box)

Be VERY careful removing the gland but on that heater hose extension pipe from the water pump!

They are absolutely unobtainable....

If you decide to go with an L&L alternator bracket you can find a 5/8" hose nipple and connect direct.

Yes to the engine stand. Wasn't risking a 3 legged one or a lighter one. So harbor freights 1 ton stand to the rescue with some grade 8 bolts, overkill I'm sure, but eased my mind on the iron beast.

Do you mean alternator or distributor? I do plan on buying a bracket from L and L plus a set of their headers 😃

I will upgrade to the 3G as mentioned, going to a pull a part tomorrow to look at some new inventory, thinking I can get the wiring for a 3G from a 90's Ford. I'll look and see if they have the fender relay on the fender and a 3 G alternator.

As to the water pump gland, I already got that off by using a line wrench. Something told me it would be fragile.

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