Gary Lewis Posted September 8, 2022 Share Posted September 8, 2022 I'm sure that a true cooler would do a better job than the long tube. But you'll need to get the cooler in the air stream and not hidden away in a dead spot. Thinking ahead is good. You get to plan and see what your thinking looks like on "paper". Sometimes you realize there's a better way or that you forgot something. Agreed on the placement. I think a trans cooler of appropriate size would do the job needed for the power steering pump. Just put it on the discharge side of the steering box seems like it would work and give enough capacity. I would place it where an auto trans cooler would go, since I'm running a manual. Speaking of the ZF trans, what clutch and flywheel are you running Gary? Would like to replace mine for tor new torquey engine 😃 I think on the return side of the power steering system you could use the tranny cooler in the radiator - assuming that your radiator has one. But a stand-alone tranny cooler would work fine as well. On the clutch/flywheel combo, that's a good question. You can start reading here in Big Blue's Transformation and see the troubles I had. I'll follow up in a bit when I can to see what the final combo was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 8, 2022 Share Posted September 8, 2022 I think on the return side of the power steering system you could use the tranny cooler in the radiator - assuming that your radiator has one. But a stand-alone tranny cooler would work fine as well. On the clutch/flywheel combo, that's a good question. You can start reading here in Big Blue's Transformation and see the troubles I had. I'll follow up in a bit when I can to see what the final combo was. Ok, I read a bit further and the problem was ME! Looks like I'm running clutch kit 07-910 and flywheel LFW109. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ford4wd08 Posted September 8, 2022 Author Share Posted September 8, 2022 Ok, I read a bit further and the problem was ME! Looks like I'm running clutch kit 07-910 and flywheel LFW109. Thanks for the info. Current radiator doesn't have provision for tranny cooler, but I know most replacements now do. That's not a bad idea to use the one in a radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 11, 2022 Share Posted September 11, 2022 Yes to wiring for the tach. Should be plug and play. I do think have to jump a resistor to get the oil pressure gauge to be a real gauge, but not really a issue. The "fake" oil pressure gauge didn't become a thing until the EFI trucks in '88, or later. My '87 definitely has a functional oil pressure gauge as I'm unpleasantly reminded at hot idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted September 11, 2022 Share Posted September 11, 2022 Yes to wiring for the tach. Should be plug and play. I do think have to jump a resistor to get the oil pressure gauge to be a real gauge, but not really a issue. The "fake" oil pressure gauge didn't become a thing until the EFI trucks in '88, or later. My '87 definitely has a functional oil pressure gauge as I'm unpleasantly reminded at hot idle. What Ford did starting in 88 or 89 was to put a resistor in the printed circuit board and a switch that closed at around 5 psi. It is sort of a reverse idiot light and is simply an oil pressure indicator. Even the later clusters can be converted to a functional gauge. The resistor is installed in the circuit by soldering to the surface trace on the printed circuit. A simple jumper across the resistor will eliminate it and changing the "sender" switch to an older gauge sender will now give you a functioning oil pressure gauge. If you can tee in a mechanical gauge you can get a pretty good idea of where in the gauge "normal" range is actually good oil pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ford4wd08 Posted September 11, 2022 Author Share Posted September 11, 2022 What Ford did starting in 88 or 89 was to put a resistor in the printed circuit board and a switch that closed at around 5 psi. It is sort of a reverse idiot light and is simply an oil pressure indicator. Even the later clusters can be converted to a functional gauge. The resistor is installed in the circuit by soldering to the surface trace on the printed circuit. A simple jumper across the resistor will eliminate it and changing the "sender" switch to an older gauge sender will now give you a functioning oil pressure gauge. If you can tee in a mechanical gauge you can get a pretty good idea of where in the gauge "normal" range is actually good oil pressure. Yes I know my truck came with a functional gauge. The cluster I bought is out of a '91 so I'll have to jump the resistor like mentioned. I will probably put a t in so I can monitor oil pressure with a gauge from under the hood. This will be important during break in of my new engine/cam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ford4wd08 Posted September 21, 2022 Author Share Posted September 21, 2022 Yes I know my truck came with a functional gauge. The cluster I bought is out of a '91 so I'll have to jump the resistor like mentioned. I will probably put a t in so I can monitor oil pressure with a gauge from under the hood. This will be important during break in of my new engine/cam. Got some more work done over the weekend. Sanded down the old paint and got it all sealed up in epoxy for now. The body work can start now. Going to try and learn some new things this time around. Hopefully I can get it all pretty straight. I also patched up a.few holes in the driver's side floor board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts