ford4wd08 Posted August 17, 2022 Author Share Posted August 17, 2022 Got the 460 block loaded up on my home made pallet tonight from scrap wood I had in the garage. Turned out pretty good I think. This was the best way I could think to transport it. 0.030" over bore and 0.010" on the crank for my rebuild. Not bad. Talked to Scotty today and got my engine kit on order. What a great resource to us 460 guys 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 17, 2022 Share Posted August 17, 2022 0.030" over bore and 0.010" on the crank for my rebuild. Not bad. Talked to Scotty today and got my engine kit on order. What a great resource to us 460 guys 👍 Yes, he is! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ford4wd08 Posted August 17, 2022 Author Share Posted August 17, 2022 Yes, he is! So.... switching gears on this a little bit. Waiting on engine parts to get in, so I am going to get back to planning and working on the body. When I removed my core support, the passenger side below the battery was rotted out. To remove the core support I cut through the bolts with a sawzall just because the mounts and bolts were just too far gone. I am going to have replace the mounts and bolts. I've already ordered a replacement core support. So, while I'm having to add find new core support body mounts, is it worthwhile to upgrade to polyurethane? I'm torn on whether it will give a harsher ride or anything like that. I know my leaf springs could use new bushings too, I came across this kit and giving it some thought too. https://www.suspension.com/packagedeal053#reviews Has anyone upgraded from the OEM rubber mounts on suspension and body? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 19, 2022 Share Posted August 19, 2022 So.... switching gears on this a little bit. Waiting on engine parts to get in, so I am going to get back to planning and working on the body. When I removed my core support, the passenger side below the battery was rotted out. To remove the core support I cut through the bolts with a sawzall just because the mounts and bolts were just too far gone. I am going to have replace the mounts and bolts. I've already ordered a replacement core support. So, while I'm having to add find new core support body mounts, is it worthwhile to upgrade to polyurethane? I'm torn on whether it will give a harsher ride or anything like that. I know my leaf springs could use new bushings too, I came across this kit and giving it some thought too. https://www.suspension.com/packagedeal053#reviews Has anyone upgraded from the OEM rubber mounts on suspension and body? I'm running poly mounts on most things on Big Blue, and everything on Dad's truck but I've not driven Dad's truck yet. But I have driven BB and the poly bushings are fine for the suspension, but I'm running OE rubber bushings on the cab. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ford4wd08 Posted August 19, 2022 Author Share Posted August 19, 2022 I'm running poly mounts on most things on Big Blue, and everything on Dad's truck but I've not driven Dad's truck yet. But I have driven BB and the poly bushings are fine for the suspension, but I'm running OE rubber bushings on the cab. I'm debating on rubber or poly for cab mount. Honest only my core support ones have to be replaced. I can always come back to it and change them out later. Not sure yet. Looks like rubber is out of stock at the moment for the few outlets I've looked at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ford4wd08 Posted September 7, 2022 Author Share Posted September 7, 2022 I'm debating on rubber or poly for cab mount. Honest only my core support ones have to be replaced. I can always come back to it and change them out later. Not sure yet. Looks like rubber is out of stock at the moment for the few outlets I've looked at it. So... Christmas came a little early 😃 I also ordered my L and L headers and my alternator bracket from them today. Been trying to do a little work on the body. Got my replacement hood sanded down and got some epoxy primer on it for now. Have a lot of body work to get done before I circle back to paint. Also found a cluster with a tach in a junk yard, should be a good addition to my truck. I do have one question for you guys, the return line for the power steering pump looks to be long and goes from the pump back around the engine crossmember and back in loops. Was this length required for power steering capacity fluid capacity or for cooling? Wondering if I can eliminate the long length and just install a stacked plate cooler for power steering? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 8, 2022 Share Posted September 8, 2022 So... Christmas came a little early 😃 I also ordered my L and L headers and my alternator bracket from them today. Been trying to do a little work on the body. Got my replacement hood sanded down and got some epoxy primer on it for now. Have a lot of body work to get done before I circle back to paint. Also found a cluster with a tach in a junk yard, should be a good addition to my truck. I do have one question for you guys, the return line for the power steering pump looks to be long and goes from the pump back around the engine crossmember and back in loops. Was this length required for power steering capacity fluid capacity or for cooling? Wondering if I can eliminate the long length and just install a stacked plate cooler for power steering? The heads look great, as does the hood. And I assume the later trucks had the wiring for the tach, so that should be a good addition. As for the power steering, that extra length is a cooler. You can eliminate it, but I'm not sure why you'd want to. And you can add another cooler if you want, or replace the long loop with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ford4wd08 Posted September 8, 2022 Author Share Posted September 8, 2022 The heads look great, as does the hood. And I assume the later trucks had the wiring for the tach, so that should be a good addition. As for the power steering, that extra length is a cooler. You can eliminate it, but I'm not sure why you'd want to. And you can add another cooler if you want, or replace the long loop with it. Yes to wiring for the tach. Should be plug and play. I do think have to jump a resistor to get the oil pressure gauge to be a real gauge, but not really a issue. I just think a.stacked cooler out in front of the radiator/AC condenser would do a better job at cooling then a long hose under the engine? I've got some time before I have to worry about that. Just trying to think ahead a little. I know the steering box and pump are getting replaced. They are wore out for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 8, 2022 Share Posted September 8, 2022 The heads look great, as does the hood. And I assume the later trucks had the wiring for the tach, so that should be a good addition. As for the power steering, that extra length is a cooler. You can eliminate it, but I'm not sure why you'd want to. And you can add another cooler if you want, or replace the long loop with it. Yes to wiring for the tach. Should be plug and play. I do think have to jump a resistor to get the oil pressure gauge to be a real gauge, but not really a issue. I just think a.stacked cooler out in front of the radiator/AC condenser would do a better job at cooling then a long hose under the engine? I've got some time before I have to worry about that. Just trying to think ahead a little. I know the steering box and pump are getting replaced. They are wore out for sure. I'm sure that a true cooler would do a better job than the long tube. But you'll need to get the cooler in the air stream and not hidden away in a dead spot. Thinking ahead is good. You get to plan and see what your thinking looks like on "paper". Sometimes you realize there's a better way or that you forgot something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ford4wd08 Posted September 8, 2022 Author Share Posted September 8, 2022 I'm sure that a true cooler would do a better job than the long tube. But you'll need to get the cooler in the air stream and not hidden away in a dead spot. Thinking ahead is good. You get to plan and see what your thinking looks like on "paper". Sometimes you realize there's a better way or that you forgot something. Agreed on the placement. I think a trans cooler of appropriate size would do the job needed for the power steering pump. Just put it on the discharge side of the steering box seems like it would work and give enough capacity. I would place it where an auto trans cooler would go, since I'm running a manual. Speaking of the ZF trans, what clutch and flywheel are you running Gary? Would like to replace mine for tor new torquey engine 😃 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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