ford4wd08 Posted July 6, 2022 Author Share Posted July 6, 2022 I see you have a sig now Jordan. I didn't know anything about a Zf-5 S 45??? I know the S-42 came out in '87 and was upgraded to the S5-47 (470 ft lbs) for the 1995 model year. Was this something specific to C&C trucks? Because I've got no documentation on it. You caught me in a typo. It is a ZF5 S-42 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 6, 2022 Share Posted July 6, 2022 You caught me in a typo. It is a ZF5 S-42 I'm running a 42 behind my Scotty-built 460 with no problemos. I don't really beat on it, but I have done a number of WOT runs. The key is just don't try to speed shift it as the synchros don't like it. And by the way, back to testing the engine. I am NOT a fan of compression tests. I've seen plenty of them say the engine is good when it was totally worn out. I don't do compression tests anymore, and instead only do leak-down tests. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 6, 2022 Share Posted July 6, 2022 You caught me in a typo. It is a ZF5 S-42 Here I was... intrigued to learn something new! We don't see to many C&C trucks here on this forum. It's always good to have more data. Zf's don't like to be lugged. The helical gears hammer the shafts against the end bearings in the case. I try not to load mine much below 2,000 rpm. (It's loose and rattley) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ford4wd08 Posted July 6, 2022 Author Share Posted July 6, 2022 Usually D70 in my experience.. But I don't know a huge lot about when Sterlings came with narrow spring perches for the C&C frame. It would be interesting to see the door jamb tag with axle code, GVWR and such. I knew you couldn't get a dually F-350 pickup with 4X4, only the C&C. Correct on 4x4 dually. It was adapted with a kit and spacers. It now has "budd" hubs up front since I redid them and got rid of the terrible spacers. Old spacer set up: New hubs and brakes: I have yet to get to the back, but it will need brakes as well. As for door jam sticker, here you go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ford4wd08 Posted July 6, 2022 Author Share Posted July 6, 2022 I'm running a 42 behind my Scotty-built 460 with no problemos. I don't really beat on it, but I have done a number of WOT runs. The key is just don't try to speed shift it as the synchros don't like it. And by the way, back to testing the engine. I am NOT a fan of compression tests. I've seen plenty of them say the engine is good when it was totally worn out. I don't do compression tests anymore, and instead only do leak-down tests. I can see how that could happen with compression and be misleading. I'll do the leak down and see what I get once I get the carb back together. Looks like it should be done on s warm engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 6, 2022 Share Posted July 6, 2022 Correct on 4x4 dually. It was adapted with a kit and spacers. It now has "budd" hubs up front since I redid them and got rid of the terrible spacers. Old spacer set up: New hubs and brakes: I have yet to get to the back, but it will need brakes as well. As for door jam sticker, here you go. We've seen those spacers before... Where did you get the hub kit? Surely it's not a Dana part???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 6, 2022 Share Posted July 6, 2022 I can see how that could happen with compression and be misleading. I'll do the leak down and see what I get once I get the carb back together. Looks like it should be done on s warm engine? I've done it on both warm and cold engines and haven't seen a huge difference. The rings probably seal better on a warm engine, so if the results are borderline bad when it is cold then you might want to test it warm later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ford4wd08 Posted July 6, 2022 Author Share Posted July 6, 2022 I can see how that could happen with compression and be misleading. I'll do the leak down and see what I get once I get the carb back together. Looks like it should be done on s warm engine? If you guys like pictures, here Is some of my progress. I have the bed off currently in the garage and have it where I can pull the truck in and out of the garage to work on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ford4wd08 Posted July 6, 2022 Author Share Posted July 6, 2022 We've seen those spacers before... Where did you get the hub kit? Surely it's not a Dana part???? Found them on eBay. Dana 60 king or something. Guy sells a lot of dana 60 parts. They weren't cheap but much, much, more serviceable than the other ones. I had to weld lugs nuts on to remove.... Tried the jam nut technique but the threads began failing. I scrapped them. The back probably has the same on it, I'll end up replacing them with another type of spacer as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 6, 2022 Share Posted July 6, 2022 If you guys like pictures, here Is some of my progress. I have the bed off currently in the garage and have it where I can pull the truck in and out of the garage to work on it. Frame rails aren't straight. That seems like a bed delete pickup more than a C&C. F382... Cab chassis not Chassis Cab There never was a 133" wb C&C, but that's a standard pickup wheelbase. Explains the Sterling rear and Budd adapters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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