ArdWrknTrk Posted July 5, 2022 Share Posted July 5, 2022 Picture of your engine bay would be nice. No emissions for me in East TN. Something to work towards. I agree Gary. It is really time to clean this thing up so it doesn't go up in flames.... I'm tempted to year it down for a rebuild anyhow. If I can find a machine shop that is local and I can trust, I could just do it right and be done with it. Let them assemble the short block and do a 3 angle valve job and I can do the rest of the assembly. But I can start with compression and leak down. Maybe it just needs resealing and cleaning. I'm not afraid to take my time and do it right. Took me almost 3 years on the bronco. My bronco 2 was converted from TFI to duraspark and I was able to loose the feedback carb and all the emissions that don't work with it. That made all the difference in the way this thing runs. As far as the brakes they have been abused. We used to load round bales of hay on the back and put it in reverse speed up and slam on the brakes to kick them off in the pasture to feed cows. With 80... or 180k that truck is just broken in, as long as it got regular oil changes. Here's what I've got: You can see the simple alternator bracket, Saginaw steering pump (no A/C) and the updated steering shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 5, 2022 Share Posted July 5, 2022 With 80... or 180k that truck is just broken in, as long as it got regular oil changes. Here's what I've got: You can see the simple alternator bracket, Saginaw steering pump (no A/C) and the updated steering shaft. Sorry, I failed to orient my pics for the forum.. My first engine made it to 280k and spun a bearing on a frigid February morning. This Remanufactured longblock has been rolling along since 2008. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ford4wd08 Posted July 5, 2022 Author Share Posted July 5, 2022 With 80... or 180k that truck is just broken in, as long as it got regular oil changes. Here's what I've got: You can see the simple alternator bracket, Saginaw steering pump (no A/C) and the updated steering shaft. Thanks for the pictures. I will definitely have AC! I don't know about the regular oil changes.... It leaks a lot. Could be just add a quart and go, but maybe that will just cause sludge that can be cleaned out. Can you give me more info on the alternator swap, steering shaft upgrade, and the new bracket to eliminate the dual air pumps? Looks like I need to order a leak down kit and compression tester. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ford4wd08 Posted July 5, 2022 Author Share Posted July 5, 2022 Sorry, I failed to orient my pics for the forum.. My first engine made it to 280k and spun a bearing on a frigid February morning. This Remanufactured longblock has been rolling along since 2008. Are you running a mechanical fuel pump? I have the hot fuel option with an electric pump on my rig, I assume because of the hot summers and AC. Also, what is on the air cleaner on the driver's side that has a vacuum line hooked to it? I have the same air cleaner, but you guessed it, it's not hooked up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 5, 2022 Share Posted July 5, 2022 Picture of your engine bay would be nice. No emissions for me in East TN. Something to work towards. I agree Gary. It is really time to clean this thing up so it doesn't go up in flames.... I'm tempted to year it down for a rebuild anyhow. If I can find a machine shop that is local and I can trust, I could just do it right and be done with it. Let them assemble the short block and do a 3 angle valve job and I can do the rest of the assembly. But I can start with compression and leak down. Maybe it just needs resealing and cleaning. I'm not afraid to take my time and do it right. Took me almost 3 years on the bronco. My bronco 2 was converted from TFI to duraspark and I was able to loose the feedback carb and all the emissions that don't work with it. That made all the difference in the way this thing runs. As far as the brakes they have been abused. We used to load round bales of hay on the back and put it in reverse speed up and slam on the brakes to kick them off in the pasture to feed cows. My experience is that it is really hard to find a reputable machine shop to build engines. Here in the Tulsa area friends have dropped engines at shops and had to pick them up years later when nothing had been done. And I took Dad's engine to a shop here and they didn't build it the way I told them to, and when I send the whole mess to Tim Meyer he had to done some rework. So when I needed a new engine for Big Blue I turned to Scotty, The Mad Porter. I had the heads done locally and bought a short block from Scotty, but if I had to do it over again I'd have gone for a long block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 5, 2022 Share Posted July 5, 2022 Thanks for the pictures. I will definitely have AC! I don't know about the regular oil changes.... It leaks a lot. Could be just add a quart and go, but maybe that will just cause sludge that can be cleaned out. Can you give me more info on the alternator swap, steering shaft upgrade, and the new bracket to eliminate the dual air pumps? Looks like I need to order a leak down kit and compression tester. I use high detergent diesel oil and Motorcraft filters. The last time I had a valve cover off there were no deposits at all. My oil is always black as night, but there is no sludge even with 5k OCI. The alternator bracket comes from L&L (purveyors of 460 goodness) Gary has a set of their headers. It's not cheap, but I tried to use pre-emission mounts from 429 cars and it sat so low the alternator was in the crossmember. (pre '80 cars and trucks used front sump oil pans and a rearward crossmember) The Saginaw pump comes from a van and eliminates the characteristic Ford groan. The steering shaft was my own concoction after I changed the rag joint at the steering box for the second time. Having a universal joint instead of a scrap of greasy rubber has definitely tightened things up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 5, 2022 Share Posted July 5, 2022 Are you running a mechanical fuel pump? I have the hot fuel option with an electric pump on my rig, I assume because of the hot summers and AC. Also, what is on the air cleaner on the driver's side that has a vacuum line hooked to it? I have the same air cleaner, but you guessed it, it's not hooked up. Yes, my truck came with a mechanical pump. I am quite familiar with the Hot Fuel Handling system though. The scoop on the driver's side opens up under full throttle (low vacuum) to admit more air when the snorkel may be too restrictive. Vacuum is routed through that green metering valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ford4wd08 Posted July 5, 2022 Author Share Posted July 5, 2022 My experience is that it is really hard to find a reputable machine shop to build engines. Here in the Tulsa area friends have dropped engines at shops and had to pick them up years later when nothing had been done. And I took Dad's engine to a shop here and they didn't build it the way I told them to, and when I send the whole mess to Tim Meyer he had to done some rework. So when I needed a new engine for Big Blue I turned to Scotty, The Mad Porter. I had the heads done locally and bought a short block from Scotty, but if I had to do it over again I'd have gone for a long block. I've seen Scotty on the 460ford forum. I'll just have to weigh options. Maybe I won't have to resort to a rebuild but just reseal and refresh. A new timing set will help a lot too. I'll let the test results guide me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 5, 2022 Share Posted July 5, 2022 I use high detergent diesel oil and Motorcraft filters. The last time I had a valve cover off there were no deposits at all. My oil is always black as night, but there is no sludge even with 5k OCI. The alternator bracket comes from L&L (purveyors of 460 goodness) Gary has a set of their headers. It's not cheap, but I tried to use pre-emission mounts from 429 cars and it sat so low the alternator was in the crossmember. (pre '80 cars and trucks used front sump oil pans and a rearward crossmember) The Saginaw pump comes from a van and eliminates the characteristic Ford groan. The steering shaft was my own concoction after I changed the rag joint at the steering box for the second time. Having a universal joint instead of a scrap of greasy rubber has definitely tightened things up. As for replacing your 2G alternator, aka "fire starter", with a 3G go to the pages at Documentation/Electrical/3G or the 3G In Development page. The latter speaks to the 2G changeout directly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ford4wd08 Posted July 5, 2022 Author Share Posted July 5, 2022 I use high detergent diesel oil and Motorcraft filters. The last time I had a valve cover off there were no deposits at all. My oil is always black as night, but there is no sludge even with 5k OCI. The alternator bracket comes from L&L (purveyors of 460 goodness) Gary has a set of their headers. It's not cheap, but I tried to use pre-emission mounts from 429 cars and it sat so low the alternator was in the crossmember. (pre '80 cars and trucks used front sump oil pans and a rearward crossmember) The Saginaw pump comes from a van and eliminates the characteristic Ford groan. The steering shaft was my own concoction after I changed the rag joint at the steering box for the second time. Having a universal joint instead of a scrap of greasy rubber has definitely tightened things up. Is this the bracket you are running? https://www.landlproducts.com/details.aspx?c=0&sc=0&ItemID=1051 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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