87 460 Carb'ed Towing Build

[ford4wd08]

Hey guys,

I'm working on my grandad's 87 F350 with the last year carb'ed 460. I have couple of questions I'm hoping y'all can help me out with.

I put a timing light on it to confirm base timing. I warmed the engine and unhooked the vaccum port on the carb (passenger side above the idle adjustment screw) and plugged it. Set timing to 8 degrees BTDC per sticker under the hood at 800ish rpm (manual trans).

When I hook the vacuum on the distributor back up on the carb it jumps up to above 20 degrees BTDC, I would expect this duraspark system to be on ported vacuum on the carb right? My port has about 10 in/mg on it at idle.

What do you guys seem on your 460's?

Also I pulled the carb today to do a rebuild. I believe this is a replacement carb already and I'm trying to track down a rebuild kit. I got one on Rock Auto already and I'm not impressed. I would rather have a NOS Motorcraft or a Holley.

Part number stamped into the air horn is 80457-2 and looks like a SN of 2919? Looks like it was maybe a replacement from Holley?

I did find this NOS kit on eBay, but not sure it is correct.

https://www.ebay.com/p/14030600058

I'm not completely against replacing this carb either if it makes more sense, just trying to get it to run as well as I can.

Future plans might be a new intake manifold and straight up timing set and maybe a cam, but I'm going to fix everything else before I dive into engine mods. Just want it to run well until I fix everything else.

[mat in tn]

that part number is more a universal carb by holley . I have used them well. it will need a basic holley reman kit like you can most likely get at oreillys or the like. however, it is NOT tuned specific to any engine or application. it also has what looks to be a reman sticker already on it. the specific calibrated carb would be best, but this can be made to work great with a little research. time is money and spend each as you can. which power valve. jetting, accel pump cam etc. are what i would want to know first. that way you can match spray and tip in response as close as possible. a little goes a long way when making changes. the 460 did come with a 600cfm and this is one, but cfm is more a rule of the limiting aspect than it is the performance. tuning is key.

[grumpin]

Hooked to ported vacuum or straight vacuum is an on going argument, er, discussion.

Is the vacuum can adjustable? Could be at max vacuum.

[Gary Lewis]

Hooked to ported vacuum or straight vacuum is an on going argument, er, discussion.

Is the vacuum can adjustable? Could be at max vacuum.

I agree, that's a replacement carb and ported vs manifold will be a discussion.

I like ported, especially with an auto tranny. But it isn't as critical with a manual.

On the timing, while 8 BTDC is factory, I usually go for 10 or 12. However, if you do that you need to make sure your Duraspark box supports the retard function during starting as the engine may kick back.

 

[ford4wd08]

I agree, that's a replacement carb and ported vs manifold will be a discussion.

I like ported, especially with an auto tranny. But it isn't as critical with a manual.

On the timing, while 8 BTDC is factory, I usually go for 10 or 12. However, if you do that you need to make sure your Duraspark box supports the retard function during starting as the engine may kick back.

I agree on the ported for the dizzy advance.

I would have thought the carb port is above the throttle plates and would be ported?

I'm also debating about just replacing it with a new one.

It is hard to know what the baseline should be since this isn't the original carb.

Here is a Holley that looks like it might would work?

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetors/street_warrior/parts/0-80457S

[ArdWrknTrk]

I agree on the ported for the dizzy advance.

I would have thought the carb port is above the throttle plates and would be ported?

I'm also debating about just replacing it with a new one.

It is hard to know what the baseline should be since this isn't the original carb.

Here is a Holley that looks like it might would work?

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetors/street_warrior/parts/0-80457S

The 80457-S is a good replacement carb for the venerable 4180.

The -2 suffix just means it has an electric choke and Ford throttle stud.

It lacks the plumbed bowl vents and the problematic front bowl inlet filter housing.

Plus the idle mixture screws aren't covered and are FAR more accessible than they are in the base flange.

I ran one for years with no problems.

Ford didn't use 'ported' vacuum because it used a thermal vacuum switch in the water neck to pull in more timing if the engine started to overheat.

You can see this if you look at the vacuum routing sticker under the hood.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Part number stamped into the air horn is 80457-2 and looks like a SN of 2919? Looks like it was maybe a replacement from Holley?

So cool that you are reviving your granddad's truck!

It's to be expected that you will see a timing jump when reconnecting the vacuum line.

That's why you need to reset the curb idle speed on a warm engine.

11"hg doesn't seem too good for a stock cam. I expect the timing chain is sloppy.

2919 is a date code. The 291st day of ninth year. (Could be 1999, 2009 or even 2019)

At least it has power valve blowout protection.

You definitely want the genuine Holley 37-119 rebuild kit with the blue teflon coated gaskets.

I've never had great success with generic sets.

I've been driving mine since (almost) new.

How many miles are on yours?

[Gary Lewis]

So cool that you are reviving your granddad's truck!

You definitely want the genuine Holley 37-119 rebuild kit with the blue teflon coated gaskets.

I've never had great success with generic sets.

I missed the bit about your granddad's truck. Yes, it is cool. As a granddad I'd sure be happy if my grandkids did that.

And amen to the Holley vs generic kit. Back in early '75 I rebuilt the Holley on my '69 Bee with a generic kit. Had always used Holley kits from the day that car was new, and trust me - I'd been through a lot of kits on that carb. But for some reason this time I went generic and then the thing didn't want to start. Turns out the gasket between the metering body and the main body only had one hole in it for the accelerator pump's shot, and I'd put it on upside down.

[ford4wd08]

So cool that you are reviving your granddad's truck!

You definitely want the genuine Holley 37-119 rebuild kit with the blue teflon coated gaskets.

I've never had great success with generic sets.

I missed the bit about your granddad's truck. Yes, it is cool. As a granddad I'd sure be happy if my grandkids did that.

And amen to the Holley vs generic kit. Back in early '75 I rebuilt the Holley on my '69 Bee with a generic kit. Had always used Holley kits from the day that car was new, and trust me - I'd been through a lot of kits on that carb. But for some reason this time I went generic and then the thing didn't want to start. Turns out the gasket between the metering body and the main body only had one hole in it for the accelerator pump's shot, and I'd put it on upside down.

Yes I was lucky enough to get two of my granddad's vehicles. His 85 Bronco II which I daily drive now and his Aluminum flatbed dually.

Here is a picture of the Bronco when I picked it up and what it looks like today. It sat for about 7 years when I went and got it.

Anyhow, thank you for the info on the Holley kit, sounds like the one I have will be ok for my needs with a good rebuild kit.

I know the vaccum ports you mention on the coolant sensors. They aren't hooked up at the moment. This farm truck had some rigging done to it along the way, I'm trying to straighten a lot of that out.

 

[ford4wd08]

Part number stamped into the air horn is 80457-2 and looks like a SN of

2919? Looks like it was maybe a replacement from Holley?

So cool that you are reviving your granddad's truck!

It's to be expected that you will see a timing jump when reconnecting the

vacuum line.

That's why you need to reset the curb idle speed on a warm engine.

11"hg doesn't seem too good for a stock cam. I expect the timing chain is

sloppy.

2919 is a date code. The 291st day of ninth year. (Could be 1999, 2009 or

even 2019)

At least it has power valve blowout protection.

You definitely want the genuine Holley 37-119 rebuild kit with the blue

teflon coated gaskets.

I've never had great success with generic sets.

I've been driving mine since (almost) new.

How many miles are on yours?

Quoted from:

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/87-460-Carb-and-Timing-Questions-tp121123p121141.html

I suspect around anywhere from 80k to 180k miles just because it has the 5 digit odometer.

It was bought new by my grandad, but there is no telling how many times it has turned over. It is the original engine though.