AC help needed please

[FuzzFace2]

Yes, the evap comes out the engine side of the HVAC box. Not too bad at all.

Good luck, Dave!

Edit: I don't know about the valve, but I can's see why you need two back-to-back.

Gary thanks valve will be removed. Never gave it much thought on the 2 valves back to back before seeing it posted on YouTube.

I also hope it is not to hard to get the evap coil swapped out

When getting my monthly eye injection I got a call the dryer was in so picked it and some system flush up on the way home from the Dr. office.

After I rest the eye I may go out and start the AC part swap / flush / recharge job.

The only thing to flush is the condenser, and it is more to get the oil out and hoses, everything else gets replaced.

From what I am reading I only add oil to the compressor. Half in the compressor and the rest in the low side of the coil as not to slug the compressor.

I think I added to much oil when I first got the system running so hope to fix it this time.

Thanks again

Dave ----

[Machspeed]

Yes, the evap comes out the engine side of the HVAC box. Not too bad at all.

Good luck, Dave!

Edit: I don't know about the valve, but I can's see why you need two back-to-back.

Gary thanks valve will be removed. Never gave it much thought on the 2 valves back to back before seeing it posted on YouTube.

I also hope it is not to hard to get the evap coil swapped out

When getting my monthly eye injection I got a call the dryer was in so picked it and some system flush up on the way home from the Dr. office.

After I rest the eye I may go out and start the AC part swap / flush / recharge job.

The only thing to flush is the condenser, and it is more to get the oil out and hoses, everything else gets replaced.

From what I am reading I only add oil to the compressor. Half in the compressor and the rest in the low side of the coil as not to slug the compressor.

I think I added to much oil when I first got the system running so hope to fix it this time.

Thanks again

Dave ----

The evaporator replacement on our trucks is surprisingly easy. Basically, just split the case from inside the engine bay by removing the screws that hold the two half's together.

In regards to the oil, I recall adding a set amount in the compressor and then portioning out the remainder in the condenser and evaporator. Good luck in your quest to fix the AC.

Sorry to hear about the eye, Dave. Avastin injections? Typically get those for Wet AMD or macular edema.

 

[FuzzFace2]

Yes, the evap comes out the engine side of the HVAC box. Not too bad at all.

Good luck, Dave!

Edit: I don't know about the valve, but I can's see why you need two back-to-back.

Gary thanks valve will be removed. Never gave it much thought on the 2 valves back to back before seeing it posted on YouTube.

I also hope it is not to hard to get the evap coil swapped out

When getting my monthly eye injection I got a call the dryer was in so picked it and some system flush up on the way home from the Dr. office.

After I rest the eye I may go out and start the AC part swap / flush / recharge job.

The only thing to flush is the condenser, and it is more to get the oil out and hoses, everything else gets replaced.

From what I am reading I only add oil to the compressor. Half in the compressor and the rest in the low side of the coil as not to slug the compressor.

I think I added to much oil when I first got the system running so hope to fix it this time.

Thanks again

Dave ----

The evaporator replacement on our trucks is surprisingly easy. Basically, just split the case from inside the engine bay by removing the screws that hold the two half's together.

In regards to the oil, I recall adding a set amount in the compressor and then portioning out the remainder in the condenser and evaporator. Good luck in your quest to fix the AC.

Sorry to hear about the eye, Dave. Avastin injections? Typically get those for Wet AMD or macular edema.

It looked like thats how it came apart but wanted to check to make sure before Igot into it.

The eye thing has been going on for almost 10 years now.

I get the injection every 4 weeks now but was up to 12 weeks at 1 time.

I dont remember what they inject, they have tried 2 different meds to get this under control and told it will be fore the rest of my life.

I get samples now but if I had to pay for it each shot is $1200! So I would be going blind in that eye if not for samples.

The eye builds up pressure and if not kept in check the eye can pop like a balloon at the back were the nerves are and kills them and I end up with an area there dose not picture what it should.

I have a little area now that is like that and for the most part I dont even notice but Icant pass my eye test for my CDL with that eye and when backing up the work truck, trailer truck, I cant judge how close I am to something. I think I am 10 feet and I am more like 30 feet so I have to get out a bunch till I am close enough to hookup the hoses to off load product.

Thanks for the information heading out in a few to "get'er done"!

Dave ----

[FuzzFace2]

Yes, the evap comes out the engine side of the HVAC box. Not too bad at all.

Good luck, Dave!

Edit: I don't know about the valve, but I can's see why you need two back-to-back.

Gary thanks valve will be removed. Never gave it much thought on the 2 valves back to back before seeing it posted on YouTube.

I also hope it is not to hard to get the evap coil swapped out

When getting my monthly eye injection I got a call the dryer was in so picked it and some system flush up on the way home from the Dr. office.

After I rest the eye I may go out and start the AC part swap / flush / recharge job.

The only thing to flush is the condenser, and it is more to get the oil out and hoses, everything else gets replaced.

From what I am reading I only add oil to the compressor. Half in the compressor and the rest in the low side of the coil as not to slug the compressor.

I think I added to much oil when I first got the system running so hope to fix it this time.

Thanks again

Dave ----

The evaporator replacement on our trucks is surprisingly easy. Basically, just split the case from inside the engine bay by removing the screws that hold the two half's together.

In regards to the oil, I recall adding a set amount in the compressor and then portioning out the remainder in the condenser and evaporator. Good luck in your quest to fix the AC.

Sorry to hear about the eye, Dave. Avastin injections? Typically get those for Wet AMD or macular edema.

It looked like thats how it came apart but wanted to check to make sure before Igot into it.

The eye thing has been going on for almost 10 years now.

I get the injection every 4 weeks now but was up to 12 weeks at 1 time.

I dont remember what they inject, they have tried 2 different meds to get this under control and told it will be fore the rest of my life.

I get samples now but if I had to pay for it each shot is $1200! So I would be going blind in that eye if not for samples.

The eye builds up pressure and if not kept in check the eye can pop like a balloon at the back were the nerves are and kills them and I end up with an area there dose not picture what it should.

I have a little area now that is like that and for the most part I dont even notice but Icant pass my eye test for my CDL with that eye and when backing up the work truck, trailer truck, I cant judge how close I am to something. I think I am 10 feet and I am more like 30 feet so I have to get out a bunch till I am close enough to hookup the hoses to off load product.

Thanks for the information heading out in a few to "get'er done"!

Dave ----

We have AC

The factory evap coil was easy on a 300 six, I would do them all day long.

The compressor clutch gave me more trouble to swap than the coil.

I got a compressor with out clutch because I replace it not long ago.

I had to get more oil as the compressor calls for 10 oz from what I found and I have less then 8 oz.

When out I also picked up more Freon with dye so I did not need to add it to the system.

The compressor came with shipping oil and had to be drained and PAG46 oil added but the full 10 oz could not be added to the compressor as per paper work. Some was added to the compressor and the rest to the evap coil inlet side. Once the compressor had oil in it they wanted it set on the clutch end to get oil on the seal for about 5 min. so I did other things.

I picked up system flush the other day and back flushed the condenser just to make sure it had no junk and get any extra oil out also flushed the hoses. I then ran shop air through the condenser as per the can of flush till no more misting came out.

Every thing went well till ........... I went to hook the suction hose to the dryer.

Just placing it there I seen it would be to high and could not close the hood.

Guess the old dryer was a little different as it was the same hose?

I tried using my to small tubing bender I have had since high school and broke it

At that itme my son showed up and showed him what was going on. He said why not use MAP gas torch to heat the metal tube and bend it around EXH. pipe I had sitting on the bench.

It worked out pretty good and was able to close the hood.

Started pulling a vacuum and after 30 mins shut it down to check for leaks, all was good so started to pull vacuum for a deep pull, did it for 2 hours as I was picking up tools and doing other things.

My son started checking why the right side bumper fog / driving lights stopped working.

Both bulbs went bad and in the middle he left for work so I had to swap bulbs and put the housing back in the bumper, wile the vacuum pump was doing its thing.

I figured after 2 hours pulling a vacuum if not enough then to bad and started to add Freon to the system. First can had the dye in it as I wanted some in the system just in case.

The sticker calls for 13 lb and 12 oz of R12 and using 12 oz 134a cans comes to 3,75 cans IIRC

When said & done 4 cans got added.

At first I was a little worried the compressor was not working after adding the 2nd can and not seeing the high side come up. Then realized I had the high side gauge valve open.

With the 4 - 12 oz cans I had 55 to 60 on the low side and 155 to 160 on the high side with OAT in the 90's and only my drum fan blowing on me and the radiator.

I had water dripping off the dryer and hose all the way back to the compressor and even a little of the compressor.

I did not have a way to measure the temp out of the vents but I was happy from what I felt blowing out.

I loaded up the weekly trash and made a dump run AC blowing cold but had the windows & kick vents open, too tired to close them as I been working on the truck since 4am and it was now 3pm

:nabble_crossed-fingers-20-pixel_orig:I dont have anymore issues with this AC

Oh when swapping the clutch I could tell the old compressor was bad as you did not hear the same compressing noise between them. This new compressor is also quite so the other was bad from day one.

Dave ----

[grumpin]

We have AC

The factory evap coil was easy on a 300 six, I would do them all day long.

The compressor clutch gave me more trouble to swap than the coil.

I got a compressor with out clutch because I replace it not long ago.

I had to get more oil as the compressor calls for 10 oz from what I found and I have less then 8 oz.

When out I also picked up more Freon with dye so I did not need to add it to the system.

The compressor came with shipping oil and had to be drained and PAG46 oil added but the full 10 oz could not be added to the compressor as per paper work. Some was added to the compressor and the rest to the evap coil inlet side. Once the compressor had oil in it they wanted it set on the clutch end to get oil on the seal for about 5 min. so I did other things.

I picked up system flush the other day and back flushed the condenser just to make sure it had no junk and get any extra oil out also flushed the hoses. I then ran shop air through the condenser as per the can of flush till no more misting came out.

Every thing went well till ........... I went to hook the suction hose to the dryer.

Just placing it there I seen it would be to high and could not close the hood.

Guess the old dryer was a little different as it was the same hose?

I tried using my to small tubing bender I have had since high school and broke it

At that itme my son showed up and showed him what was going on. He said why not use MAP gas torch to heat the metal tube and bend it around EXH. pipe I had sitting on the bench.

It worked out pretty good and was able to close the hood.

Started pulling a vacuum and after 30 mins shut it down to check for leaks, all was good so started to pull vacuum for a deep pull, did it for 2 hours as I was picking up tools and doing other things.

My son started checking why the right side bumper fog / driving lights stopped working.

Both bulbs went bad and in the middle he left for work so I had to swap bulbs and put the housing back in the bumper, wile the vacuum pump was doing its thing.

I figured after 2 hours pulling a vacuum if not enough then to bad and started to add Freon to the system. First can had the dye in it as I wanted some in the system just in case.

The sticker calls for 13 lb and 12 oz of R12 and using 12 oz 134a cans comes to 3,75 cans IIRC

When said & done 4 cans got added.

At first I was a little worried the compressor was not working after adding the 2nd can and not seeing the high side come up. Then realized I had the high side gauge valve open.

With the 4 - 12 oz cans I had 55 to 60 on the low side and 155 to 160 on the high side with OAT in the 90's and only my drum fan blowing on me and the radiator.

I had water dripping off the dryer and hose all the way back to the compressor and even a little of the compressor.

I did not have a way to measure the temp out of the vents but I was happy from what I felt blowing out.

I loaded up the weekly trash and made a dump run AC blowing cold but had the windows & kick vents open, too tired to close them as I been working on the truck since 4am and it was now 3pm

:nabble_crossed-fingers-20-pixel_orig:I dont have anymore issues with this AC

Oh when swapping the clutch I could tell the old compressor was bad as you did not hear the same compressing noise between them. This new compressor is also quite so the other was bad from day one.

Dave ----

Well done! Hope it stays frosty for awhile.

[FuzzFace2]

Well done! Hope it stays frosty for awhile.

Thanks and me too

Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

Well done! Hope it stays frosty for awhile.

Thanks and me too

Dave ----

Yes, well done!!

[FuzzFace2]

Yes, well done!!

Thanks

With everything new it better work good now.

Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, well done!!

Thanks

With everything new it better work good now.

Dave ----

I know what you mean. Big Blue's is all essentially new and it worked for a bit but then failed. Turned out it was a bad o-ring and once that was replaced it has been rock solid.

However, it is still a 30+ year old system and it doesn't do as well as newer systems. For instance, the blower isn't nearly as powerful so the cold air takes some time to cool things down - especially at our 100+ current temps. But once cooled down it does a good job.

[85lebaront2]

I know what you mean. Big Blue's is all essentially new and it worked for a bit but then failed. Turned out it was a bad o-ring and once that was replaced it has been rock solid.

However, it is still a 30+ year old system and it doesn't do as well as newer systems. For instance, the blower isn't nearly as powerful so the cold air takes some time to cool things down - especially at our 100+ current temps. But once cooled down it does a good job.

Not only is it 37 years old, it was designed for R12, not R134. Darth's original system was great, the conversion was adequate but never quite as good as the original.

Now you understand why I put an entire 1996 crew cab system in Darth, bigger, multipass condenser and bigger evaporator also.