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AC help needed please


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I prefer the orange orifice tube. I can make them blow cold with any of them.

Another thing people don't like to consider because it's not that common is R152A is more of a direct replacement for R12 than R134A is.

When swapping R12 to R152A use a multiplier of .55 for the charge.

When saapping R134A to R152A use a multiier of .65 .

So let's say the system calls for 10oz of R134A . 10 X .65 =6.5 oz is your R152A charge.

Where do you get R152a?

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Walmart or anywhere. It's keyboard duster. Pretty cheap too.

Interesting. How do you service it? Attach a hose to it?

At one time keyboard duster was R12. Of course they deemed that unsafe for the environment. Then they had the perfect keyboard duster replacement R134A. Then the EPA witch hunt turned their sights on it so they came up with R152A.

Which is a great refrigerant. It runs lower pressures in your system so it puts less stress on your compressor.

I am running it in my 2012 Ram 2500. It will put 39° air out of the vents when it's 96° outside.

I took a 90 minute roadtrip on the hwy last weekend . It was almost 100°. I couldn't run the system on high the whole time it became unbearable. I have been runni g it for about 4 years now with no problems.

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At one time keyboard duster was R12. Of course they deemed that unsafe for the environment. Then they had the perfect keyboard duster replacement R134A. Then the EPA witch hunt turned their sights on it so they came up with R152A.

Which is a great refrigerant. It runs lower pressures in your system so it puts less stress on your compressor.

I am running it in my 2012 Ram 2500. It will put 39° air out of the vents when it's 96° outside.

I took a 90 minute roadtrip on the hwy last weekend . It was almost 100°. I couldn't run the system on high the whole time it became unbearable. I have been runni g it for about 4 years now with no problems.

Thank you! Man that is a neat tool!

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Thank you! Man that is a neat tool!

I have not touched the truck for a week, took it to work today and at 2am the drive with 260 air was not bad.

Even on the way home the 260 air was not bad till it stopped working, no 60 only the 2 and using 245 when I did the trash. (2 windows down and do 60 mph)

There is a Cars & Coffee the car club is going to in the morning till about noon if the temp & weather is not to bad.

Then there is a evening cruise the club also wants to go to and it is next door to a good burger joint so the wife & I will go to the cruise & a burger.

So I dont think I will have time Saturday to look at this unless I go out later when cooler but I have been up since 12am for work so looks like Sunday.

My question:

If I cant get the system to take a charge I am looking to replace the compressor, Evap coil & dryer w/ orifice valve.

Can the evap coil be changed out without pulling the dash apart?

Can you undo the HVAC box in the engine bay to swap the coil?

Coil was from parts truck and was flushed and was clean.

Compressor was a junk yard unit and did work when first installed but always made noise.

The dryer, hoses & valve were all new when I first got the system working.

I figured if I have the system open for the compressor, got a feeling that is why it is not working, I might as well change the coil.

I also heard a tin can popping by the HVAC box area when I first started to pull a vacuum.

Beside the dryer the coil is the only other thing in that area.

Thanks for any help you can give

Dave ----

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At one time keyboard duster was R12. Of course they deemed that unsafe for the environment. Then they had the perfect keyboard duster replacement R134A. Then the EPA witch hunt turned their sights on it so they came up with R152A.

Which is a great refrigerant. It runs lower pressures in your system so it puts less stress on your compressor.

I am running it in my 2012 Ram 2500. It will put 39° air out of the vents when it's 96° outside.

I took a 90 minute roadtrip on the hwy last weekend . It was almost 100°. I couldn't run the system on high the whole time it became unbearable. I have been runni g it for about 4 years now with no problems.

So I'm really curious about this! If this is such a great refrigerant and does not harm the environment, why is it not available for use in our vehicles? Found this on Youtube. By chance is this you?

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At one time keyboard duster was R12. Of course they deemed that unsafe for the environment. Then they had the perfect keyboard duster replacement R134A. Then the EPA witch hunt turned their sights on it so they came up with R152A.

Which is a great refrigerant. It runs lower pressures in your system so it puts less stress on your compressor.

I am running it in my 2012 Ram 2500. It will put 39° air out of the vents when it's 96° outside.

I took a 90 minute roadtrip on the hwy last weekend . It was almost 100°. I couldn't run the system on high the whole time it became unbearable. I have been runni g it for about 4 years now with no problems.

So I'm really curious about this! If this is such a great refrigerant and does not harm the environment, why is it not available for use in our vehicles? Found this on Youtube. By chance is this you?

Ok I added what was left of the 2 cans I started by soaking them in hot water and with the everything off I could hear the first can push in.

The 2nd can I had the motor running I also added a 3rd full can and at least the compressor stays running.

But it is not blowing cold just some what cooler air.

The low side is 30 psi the high side 155 psi.

If I bring the RPM up only the low side drops to about 25 psi.

I feel between the noise the compressor is making and the PSI not really changing other then when I add a can of Freon the compressor is not working.

I do not see either needle jumping around as someone posted if the compressor is / was going bad.

It just is not building anything on the high side like it did when I first got the system working.

So with that said I ordered a compressor less clutch as the one I have is only a year old and most of the compressors listed 1 wire hook up and mine is 2.

I also ordered the evap coil & dryer and already have a new orifice valve.

I will also go through and replace all the o-rings again just to be sure I have no leaks and will pull a vacuum for hours to make sure it pulls a deep vacuum and that it holds .... again I dont want any leaks!

Dave ----

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I prefer the orange orifice tube. I can make them blow cold with any of them.

Another thing people don't like to consider because it's not that common is R152A is more of a direct replacement for R12 than R134A is.

When swapping R12 to R152A use a multiplier of .55 for the charge.

When saapping R134A to R152A use a multiier of .65 .

So let's say the system calls for 10oz of R134A . 10 X .65 =6.5 oz is your R152A charge.

I think R134A is closer to R12 than R152A.

You said to switch to R152A from R12 you charge to 55% of the R12 Capacity. With R134A you charge to 75% - 80% of the R12 Capacity.

My 78 Mercury I run it at almost 90% capacity of R134A because its not just an expansion valve system but it also has a STV which requires a higher initial pressure to get cold air. At 90% capacity in this instance I was able to see interior cabin temperatures on a cloudy day drop into the mid 40s.

My 82 F150 I dont know what I run it at as there is no spec for dealer AC capacity, but I charge it up a bit on the higher side when using the temperature charts for mobile AC systems and even on a 100* day I steadily get 58* out of the driver side vent.

At work I vary between 75% and 80% based off what the pressures are reading. Some I can squeeze up to 80% due to an excellent cooling system that can keep the head pressure down and other times its 75% cause 80% would result in a 300+ psi head pressure.

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