Concerning Conversation With DB Electrical

[kramttocs]

Yes, the 95A and 130A are both available in both mounting distances.

The best I can say it is that if you have V-belts you want the 8.25" mount, because if you have the 3.5" radius of the 7" mount the alternator becomes 'trapped' and can't really swing to adjust.

I'm pretty sure the 300 I-6 takes the 8.25" mount no matter what belt style. (Needs confirmation!)

Otherwise polygroove trucks take the 7" mount.

One thing I should point out... the smaller body (95A) 3G alternator does not require the Windsor cast bracket to be cut in order to fit. (so Bill's 220A link would be ideal for EFI Windsors)

Why not go with a Powermaster?!

I have the small mount on my 460 and like Jim mentioned - had to grind a bit off the L&L bracket to allow it to have full range. It was really only needed to allow the belt to be installed easier since once pulled tight, nothing was in contact even without the grinding done.

[Gary Lewis]

Why not go with a Powermaster?!

I have the small mount on my 460 and like Jim mentioned - had to grind a bit off the L&L bracket to allow it to have full range. It was really only needed to allow the belt to be installed easier since once pulled tight, nothing was in contact even without the grinding done.

Ok guys, I think I have enough info to edit the page. But it is such a dog's breakfast that I don't know where to start.

As for Powermaster, I don't even like to admit I have one of their starters on Big Blue. But at least with a starter you can install a no-name replacement from the parts store with no re-wiring. Try that with their alternator.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Why not go with a Powermaster?!

I have the small mount on my 460 and like Jim mentioned - had to grind a bit off the L&L bracket to allow it to have full range. It was really only needed to allow the belt to be installed easier since once pulled tight, nothing was in contact even without the grinding done.

Scott, as you know I have the L&L bracket too.

But if you have the stock (smog pump) bracket the only way to make it work is to use the 8.25"" mount.

 

[85lebaront2]

Bill - That might be a great find, thanks! But I say "might be" as I thought it was the 3.0L engine that had the right alternator for us. No?

Anyway, while this thread is about my discussions with DB I did follow up with Power Bastards by sending this email since they didn't answer the phone:

I have an '85 F250 w/a 460 that I've converted to EEC-V EFI and a poly-groove belt system.  And on my forum we've found that a 3G from a 1994 - 1999 Taurus w/a 3.0L V6 has the right clocking and ear/ear distance to fit right in.  I'm running a stock 3G on the truck and it keeps the 1150 CCA starting battery and the 850 CCA aux battery charged - normally.

However, I also have a 12,000 lb winch and a 3KW inverter that powers a 1.5 HP 110 VAC onboard air system.  When one of those is running the battery voltage comes down into the 11's.  So I'm considering upgrading my alternator, and one of the members on my forum mentioned your alternators in this post, although he mentioned your 777-220 and I'm not sure that is the one that fits.  So I'm following up to see if you have a chart showing the output of your alternator as I'm checking the output of the one I have and would like to compare.  (I can do the math on the pulley ratios, which appear to be 6 1/2 & 2 1/2", to get to alternator RPM.)

Last, why are your alternators the "most reliable, highest output alternators on the planet"?

Thanks,

Gary

The Taurus 3.8L not only has the correct mounting but also the proper "clock" to put the positive stud away from the cylinder head front along with having the regulator where you can full field it for testing.

[kramttocs]

Scott, as you know I have the L&L bracket too.

But if you have the stock (smog pump) bracket the only way to make it work is to use the 8.25"" mount.

Good point Jim. Don't want to muddy the water saying the 7" will work without them realizing it requires an aftermarket bracket setup.

[ArdWrknTrk]

The Taurus 3.8L not only has the correct mounting but also the proper "clock" to put the positive stud away from the cylinder head front along with having the regulator where you can full field it for testing.

Right Bill!

Is there a reason you chose a 135mm "high output" 3G alternator? Or, is that the only one they offer?

I know that DB offers "upgraded" 3G's in all the various flavors.

I haven't checked to see if they are all in stock....

[Rusty_S85]

We need to clarify that there are two body sizes (135mm-4 hole 95A and 148mm-2hole 130A output)

AND

Two C-C mounting distances. (7" spread and 8 1/4")

If you look at the alternator Bill linked it is the small body (4-hole, 135mm diameter case) which would have been the 95A model.

The 148mm 2-hole style obviously has a larger area diode board, and I suspect is better able to shed heat from the rectifier diodes.

Everything you *else said above is correct.

Ive read the same thing that the smaller 95A output is avaliable in the 7" and 8 1/4" spacing. How ever in my search all I have ever been able to find for the 95A output was the 7" spacing and never the 8 1/4" spacing.

Its a big reason why I decided to just run the larger 130A version as the 8 1/4" spacing is way easier for me to find.

The confusing aspect for me how ever and I havent measured my specific alternator but a single sheave pulley 1G removed from the 82 F150 302 I pulled out at work for the 5.0 coyote swap years ago has a 7" ear spacing with the OE V belt brackets.

The larger case would shed a lot more heat and help the alternator run cooler as well.

[ArdWrknTrk]

We need to clarify that there are two body sizes (135mm-4 hole 95A and 148mm-2hole 130A output)

AND

Two C-C mounting distances. (7" spread and 8 1/4")

If you look at the alternator Bill linked it is the small body (4-hole, 135mm diameter case) which would have been the 95A model.

The 148mm 2-hole style obviously has a larger area diode board, and I suspect is better able to shed heat from the rectifier diodes.

Everything you *else said above is correct.

Ive read the same thing that the smaller 95A output is avaliable in the 7" and 8 1/4" spacing. How ever in my search all I have ever been able to find for the 95A output was the 7" spacing and never the 8 1/4" spacing.

Its a big reason why I decided to just run the larger 130A version as the 8 1/4" spacing is way easier for me to find.

The confusing aspect for me how ever and I havent measured my specific alternator but a single sheave pulley 1G removed from the 82 F150 302 I pulled out at work for the 5.0 coyote swap years ago has a 7" ear spacing with the OE V belt brackets.

The larger case would shed a lot more heat and help the alternator run cooler as well.

Like I said above, the 135mm diameter body will work with the 7" C-C mount.

The 148mm (130A) body can *maybe* fit, but you don't have any swing for adjustment.

Look at the alternator Bill linked above.

It is a 4 hole (135 mm) alternator with 7" mounting.

(it's also sold as 220A, and costs $300!)

Let me go look at DB

[85lebaront2]

We need to clarify that there are two body sizes (135mm-4 hole 95A and 148mm-2hole 130A output)

AND

Two C-C mounting distances. (7" spread and 8 1/4")

If you look at the alternator Bill linked it is the small body (4-hole, 135mm diameter case) which would have been the 95A model.

The 148mm 2-hole style obviously has a larger area diode board, and I suspect is better able to shed heat from the rectifier diodes.

Everything you *else said above is correct.

Ive read the same thing that the smaller 95A output is avaliable in the 7" and 8 1/4" spacing. How ever in my search all I have ever been able to find for the 95A output was the 7" spacing and never the 8 1/4" spacing.

Its a big reason why I decided to just run the larger 130A version as the 8 1/4" spacing is way easier for me to find.

The confusing aspect for me how ever and I havent measured my specific alternator but a single sheave pulley 1G removed from the 82 F150 302 I pulled out at work for the 5.0 coyote swap years ago has a 7" ear spacing with the OE V belt brackets.

The larger case would shed a lot more heat and help the alternator run cooler as well.

An item to consider on alternator cooling. When I was still working at the Mercedes-Benz dealership, the new 190E 2.3 (the ones that later grew turbos) had a flex duct that ran from the area that would correspond to the cowl vent on our trucks. The alternator wiring ran through this as Mercedes put the battery and fuse box (which doubled as the penetration) there.

As a result the alternator cooling fan was pulling air from the cowl and exhausting it underhood. I am sure this did help those Bosch alternators which were anemic then compared to what we could get.

[grumpin]

An item to consider on alternator cooling. When I was still working at the Mercedes-Benz dealership, the new 190E 2.3 (the ones that later grew turbos) had a flex duct that ran from the area that would correspond to the cowl vent on our trucks. The alternator wiring ran through this as Mercedes put the battery and fuse box (which doubled as the penetration) there.

As a result the alternator cooling fan was pulling air from the cowl and exhausting it underhood. I am sure this did help those Bosch alternators which were anemic then compared to what we could get.

My son’s BMW has a liquid cooled alternator.