Scraping noise when pushing clutch after starter swap.

[351FUN]

Truck is an 83 F250 with a Blueprint 306 and factory 4 speed. The starter went out the other day and I replaced it with the exact same powermaster that was on it. Now it runs great but makes a sound like metal slipping against itself when I have the clutch pedal depressed. It goes into gear fine and moves around no problem, just has a noise I don't want to ignore. Any ideas would be great.

[mat in tn]

is it starting the engine? is it sounding like it is staying engaged to the engine once it starts?

if it is only when the clutch pedal is pushed down once the engine is running then it has to be within the clutch assembly. any coincidence with the starter must be just that.

[351FUN]

is it starting the engine? is it sounding like it is staying engaged to the engine once it starts?

if it is only when the clutch pedal is pushed down once the engine is running then it has to be within the clutch assembly. any coincidence with the starter must be just that.

I'll have to get back to you on those, its on the side of the road half a mile from the house because it still can't stay running. When I was trying to restart it I thought I heard a scraping noise too. The starter came with a shim that I didn't need last time, I may need to try it with that.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Now it runs great

its on the side of the road half a mile from the house because it still can't stay running

:nabble_anim_confused:

You say "i replaced it with the exact same Powermaster that was on it"

Are you sure you didn't get a starter intended for an automatic with a flexplate?

Because there is definitely a difference in engagement depth.

A starter for a manual will not reliably reach a flexplate ring gear, and a starter for an automatic will not fully disengage a flywheel.

This means when the engine starts the flywheel will over drive the starter.

Honestly, I've never seen shims included with a Ford starter.

GM.. sure. They often need shimming because they attach radially.

 

[351FUN]

Now it runs great

its on the side of the road half a mile from the house because it still can't stay running

:nabble_anim_confused:

You say "i replaced it with the exact same Powermaster that was on it"

Are you sure you didn't get a starter intended for an automatic with a flexplate?

Because there is definitely a difference in engagement depth.

A starter for a manual will not reliably reach a flexplate ring gear, and a starter for an automatic will not fully disengage a flywheel.

This means when the engine starts the flywheel will over drive the starter.

Honestly, I've never seen shims included with a Ford starter.

GM.. sure. They often need shimming because they attach radially.

I ordered the same one off summit from the order email from years ago. I can't guarantee they sent the right one but it looked identical.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I ordered the same one off summit from the order email from years ago. I can't guarantee they sent the right one but it looked identical.

I didn't mean to suggest you ordered the wrong starter.

There's always a possibility the wrong label was put on the box or the starter itself ended up on the wrong packaging line.

I'm simply saying that if you did get an automatic starter it would explain why it would grind and stay engaged after the engine was running.

Did the first starter come with shims?

The only difference would be how far the Bendix throws out (and retracts)

If you still have the old one perhaps you could compare them?

Have you checked the crankshaft for end float?

Maybe putting pressure on the clutch is pushing the whole assembly forward into the starter gear?

[mat in tn]

I didn't mean to suggest you ordered the wrong starter.

There's always a possibility the wrong label was put on the box or the starter itself ended up on the wrong packaging line.

I'm simply saying that if you did get an automatic starter it would explain why it would grind and stay engaged after the engine was running.

Did the first starter come with shims?

The only difference would be how far the Bendix throws out (and retracts)

If you still have the old one perhaps you could compare them?

Have you checked the crankshaft for end float?

Maybe putting pressure on the clutch is pushing the whole assembly forward into the starter gear?

that would mean a lot of wear on the thrust bearing for sure. it seems the most likely is a poor fitting starter. in the shop I would be tempted to unplug / jump the clutch safety switch and try starting it in neutral without touching the clutch pedal and listening. I'm not suggesting that it be left that way. testing only! but it seems to have started at the change of starters so stay on that point. certainly, compare to the old as much as you can. you might even see if the local parts store has one on the shelf for your truck to compare also

[351FUN]

that would mean a lot of wear on the thrust bearing for sure. it seems the most likely is a poor fitting starter. in the shop I would be tempted to unplug / jump the clutch safety switch and try starting it in neutral without touching the clutch pedal and listening. I'm not suggesting that it be left that way. testing only! but it seems to have started at the change of starters so stay on that point. certainly, compare to the old as much as you can. you might even see if the local parts store has one on the shelf for your truck to compare also

I have both starters and it sounds like unfortunately I'll have to take it off again to check everything. This was my first time trying long tube headers and it will also be my last.

Also, these are supposed to have a neutral start switch? That's news to me.

[ArdWrknTrk]

that would mean a lot of wear on the thrust bearing for sure. it seems the most likely is a poor fitting starter. in the shop I would be tempted to unplug / jump the clutch safety switch and try starting it in neutral without touching the clutch pedal and listening. I'm not suggesting that it be left that way. testing only! but it seems to have started at the change of starters so stay on that point. certainly, compare to the old as much as you can. you might even see if the local parts store has one on the shelf for your truck to compare also

I'm just trying to understand what is meant by "metal scraping noise when the clutch is depressed" (throw out bearing?)

Why that would leave the truck stuck on the road, and how that could cause noise from the starter.

This seems to be a re-manned engine.

While we'd all like to think it was assembled well, if the center main journal got wiped on the side it would allow the flywheel to move forward.

( Deleted for adding to the confusion)

[Gary Lewis]

I'm just trying to understand what is meant by "metal scraping noise when the clutch is depressed" (throw out bearing?)

Why that would leave the truck stuck on the road, and how that could cause noise from the starter.

This seems to be a re-manned engine.

While we'd all like to think it was assembled well, if the center main journal got wiped on the side it would allow the flywheel to move forward.

( Deleted for adding to the confusion)

I think the clutch switch appeared in '84. I know that Dad's truck didn't have one and one doesn't show in the '81 EVTM. But it does show in the '85 EVTM. And IIRC, it showed first in '84 so an '83 probably doesn't have one.