mat in tn Posted May 31, 2022 Share Posted May 31, 2022 With a little wiggle from a pair of mini vice-grips, I was able to get the cable loose. I have a gray (tan?) gear marked "19R", with (obviously) 19 teeth: Per the chart it should be tan... either way, that's clearly a type 2 gear. Per my math, factoring in a 7% error (too slow), I need a 17.8 tooth gear... aka 18 tooth. Will see about obtaining and swapping. Edit- Per the chart I need part C7SZ-17271-B... which shows up for sale nowhere. But elsewhere in the table, I do see the C7SP-17271-B engineering number of that gear cross-referenced to a C7SZ-17271-C, which I find lots of places and comes up as a gray 18 tooth gear that sure looks like a type 2: https://www.ebay.com/itm/142715478630 Looks like another "replaced by" note may need added to the chart then... or Ford made a typo. Yay... at least I have a gear to buy (and at a decent price too!) if that brings it into range then it simple enough and affordable too. then it's just getting the best tire for the job. I sold my 92 4wd to my son in law and said, 'leave the factory tires on it". no good. he went immediately and bought 32x11.5s and new 10' wheels. it looks great! but then he asked why the gas mileage sucked and he felt like it didn't have the power it always had before. CLASS TIME!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted May 31, 2022 Author Share Posted May 31, 2022 if that brings it into range then it simple enough and affordable too. then it's just getting the best tire for the job. I sold my 92 4wd to my son in law and said, 'leave the factory tires on it". no good. he went immediately and bought 32x11.5s and new 10' wheels. it looks great! but then he asked why the gas mileage sucked and he felt like it didn't have the power it always had before. CLASS TIME!!!!! Off topic: If anything I need smaller wheels or taller gears. Big hills are a nightmare... as I have to floor it or manually shift to make it shift down (and going any tighter on the TV cable results in it not automatically shifting back up after recovery at cruise speeds). Don't shift down, and trying to do anything at 1000-1400RPM results in a lot of lugging and shanking/missing. But once geared down, it wants to launch itself to space, which on a 20mph windy hill, is less than fun to control. Even after an engine rebuild and a controls overhaul, it's always done that. Valve body issue perhaps? Or just normal behavior (and this is why high-altitude 300's with AODs had 3.55 gears from the factory?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81f100custom Posted May 31, 2022 Share Posted May 31, 2022 Off topic: If anything I need smaller wheels or taller gears. Big hills are a nightmare... as I have to floor it or manually shift to make it shift down (and going any tighter on the TV cable results in it not automatically shifting back up after recovery at cruise speeds). Don't shift down, and trying to do anything at 1000-1400RPM results in a lot of lugging and shanking/missing. But once geared down, it wants to launch itself to space, which on a 20mph windy hill, is less than fun to control. Even after an engine rebuild and a controls overhaul, it's always done that. Valve body issue perhaps? Or just normal behavior (and this is why high-altitude 300's with AODs had 3.55 gears from the factory?) If not mistaken my original size should be 215/75 R15 and running a BFGoodrich 235/70 R15 which should about a 1/4" difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted May 31, 2022 Author Share Posted May 31, 2022 If not mistaken my original size should be 215/75 R15 and running a BFGoodrich 235/70 R15 which should about a 1/4" difference. Yep. Forgot that door tags are a thing, and upon looking at a picture of mine, the stock tire size listed is P215/75R155L... so technically passenger car tires are stock??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted June 1, 2022 Author Share Posted June 1, 2022 Yep. Forgot that door tags are a thing, and upon looking at a picture of mine, the stock tire size listed is P215/75R155L... so technically passenger car tires are stock??? Done some more research... Opinions are like butts... we all have them, and they all stink. Seems on a lot of 1/2 ton trucks (even today!) P-tires are indeed stock... and it sounds like since I don't tow often, "extra load" P-tires are probably OK. So other than my FR tire going bald on the outer edge (despite getting it aligned when I had new front tires installed last year), no issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted June 3, 2022 Author Share Posted June 3, 2022 Done some more research... Opinions are like butts... we all have them, and they all stink. Seems on a lot of 1/2 ton trucks (even today!) P-tires are indeed stock... and it sounds like since I don't tow often, "extra load" P-tires are probably OK. So other than my FR tire going bald on the outer edge (despite getting it aligned when I had new front tires installed last year), no issue? One other thing I'm noting: Since the tire size is confirmed to be wrong (235 instead of 215), I decided to calculate the error using an online calculator... and somehow, yep, two different calculators agree that there is a 4.2% error in diameter/circumference. So, I had previously measured a 7% error in speed/odometer readings. And the gear swap will correct things by 5.3%... which my math shows an ultimate correction of 9.1%, or 2.1% too far. I guess the gear swap still makes sense once I have the right tires (2% too far/fast vs 3% to slow/short)... or I swap gears back when the tire swap eventually happens? Lovely... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted June 11, 2022 Share Posted June 11, 2022 One other thing I'm noting: Since the tire size is confirmed to be wrong (235 instead of 215), I decided to calculate the error using an online calculator... and somehow, yep, two different calculators agree that there is a 4.2% error in diameter/circumference. So, I had previously measured a 7% error in speed/odometer readings. And the gear swap will correct things by 5.3%... which my math shows an ultimate correction of 9.1%, or 2.1% too far. I guess the gear swap still makes sense once I have the right tires (2% too far/fast vs 3% to slow/short)... or I swap gears back when the tire swap eventually happens? Lovely... the tire wear is certainly an indicator of bad alignment. regardless of having paid for an alignment. "Within spec" is something we hear but does NOT mean properly aligned. wear on the outside shoulder only typically means toe in too far in or too much camber. or you are on the nascar circuit going hard into the corners always turning left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted August 16, 2022 Author Share Posted August 16, 2022 Got a quote on some Michelin Defender LTX M/S tires (in the stock size no less)... and ouch, the quote came back for more than I originally paid for the truck. Around $800-$850 with the alignment. So that's more than I'd like to spend... and I'm back to square one. Although honestly from what I'm seeing that may be the cost of admission. Unless I cheap out and put a pair of new Hankooks (same as what I already have) on the front and leave the back as-is. As blasphemous as it feels continuing to run such . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 16, 2022 Share Posted August 16, 2022 Got a quote on some Michelin Defender LTX M/S tires (in the stock size no less)... and ouch, the quote came back for more than I originally paid for the truck. Around $800-$850 with the alignment. So that's more than I'd like to spend... and I'm back to square one. Although honestly from what I'm seeing that may be the cost of admission. Unless I cheap out and put a pair of new Hankooks (same as what I already have) on the front and leave the back as-is. As blasphemous as it feels continuing to run such . Are you looking for M-S, MT or AT tires? 215 or 235? (75 R15) Also, a P tire or LT? What would you feel is reasonable (per tire) given you'd also need mount, balance & fix that alignment? $125 a piece? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 16, 2022 Share Posted August 16, 2022 Are you looking for M-S, MT or AT tires? 215 or 235? (75 R15) Also, a P tire or LT? What would you feel is reasonable (per tire) given you'd also need mount, balance & fix that alignment? $125 a piece? I'm not a fan of Michelin tires. I bought a brand new set in the 80's and had fits with them. As it turned out the belts were moving and changing the balance on the tires. The shop finally replaced them - all 4 of them as at least 2 were doing it. Since then I've not had their tires. But that price does seem to be about right for those tires. Tire Rack has them at $180.99/ea, which is $723.96 for four. So you'll be right there at the price you mentioned with mounting, balancing, and alignment. Maybe stay with the Hankook's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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