1G-to-3G and serpentine swap, R134a conversion, and gauge install on my 1985 F-150

[ArdWrknTrk]

"Required" may be too strong a word. In all fairness, I'm not an electrical engineer. I've forgotten most of what I learned when I took an electronic principles course fifteen years ago. That said, I decided to include the resistor because everything I was able to find regarding it indicated that it was required.

I decided to put it in the circuit since I'm sure it can't hurt.

Here's a few more pictures in daylight. I just got this done last night. One thing I forgot to mention is that the 1996 F150 (EEC-V) that I pulled the brackets from also had an idler pulley instead of a smog pump. Nice little bonus. The intake tube and air box are from the same truck. It's nice to have the MAF sensor in case I decide to use it in the future.

The gauge ground and sender wiring. It's the loom that has the y in it. One leg goes to the engine/firewall ground while the other was routed underneath the coil bracket.

That's a nice, clean install of the ground harness.

Cory (Rembrandt) just figured out the polygroove belt routing for the Windsor he's installing in his '52.

While Bill (Vose) and Gary have quite a bit of information on integrating EEC-V + OBD-II with Bullnose era trucks posted here on the site.

You might find some interest in that if you're considering MAF SEFI for your '85

[Gary Lewis]

That's a nice, clean install of the ground harness.

Cory (Rembrandt) just figured out the polygroove belt routing for the Windsor he's installing in his '52.

While Bill (Vose) and Gary have quite a bit of information on integrating EEC-V + OBD-II with Bullnose era trucks posted here on the site.

You might find some interest in that if you're considering MAF SEFI for your '85

That's a really clean installation of everything. And that may be the best for aftermarket gauges that I've seen.

As for EEC-V, I'm approaching the goal post on this quest. But it isn't for the faint of heart. If you got all the harnii from the donor truck, and I sure hope you did, it shouldn't be too bad. The problem is that the ECU on the donor truck is going to be in the driver's kick panel, and yours is just to the left of where you put the gauges. So you'll either have to modify the truck to get the computer where the harness will stretch, or extend the harness to where your computer is now.

I'm doing the latter and it is really fiddly. But in my case I think it'll be worth it since I'm coming from a carb to a sequential fuel injection system using a mass air sensor. In your case, if you don't change the cam, intake, or exhaust you might not see much difference to your speed density/bank fire system.

[Giraffe]

That's a really clean installation of everything. And that may be the best for aftermarket gauges that I've seen.

As for EEC-V, I'm approaching the goal post on this quest. But it isn't for the faint of heart. If you got all the harnii from the donor truck, and I sure hope you did, it shouldn't be too bad. The problem is that the ECU on the donor truck is going to be in the driver's kick panel, and yours is just to the left of where you put the gauges. So you'll either have to modify the truck to get the computer where the harness will stretch, or extend the harness to where your computer is now.

I'm doing the latter and it is really fiddly. But in my case I think it'll be worth it since I'm coming from a carb to a sequential fuel injection system using a mass air sensor. In your case, if you don't change the cam, intake, or exhaust you might not see much difference to your speed density/bank fire system.

Unfortunately, I didn't get the entire harness from the truck. My eventual plan for this truck when it comes to the computer is to swap to a megasquirt setup. The truck I pulled the brackets from is long gone. If I was looking to do a factory EEC-V swap, I would have liked to have had the entire 1996-spec harness. I did pull the 1996-specific timing cover with the crank sensor, though.

[ArdWrknTrk]

That's a really clean installation of everything. And that may be the best for aftermarket gauges that I've seen.

As for EEC-V, I'm approaching the goal post on this quest. But it isn't for the faint of heart. If you got all the harnii from the donor truck, and I sure hope you did, it shouldn't be too bad. The problem is that the ECU on the donor truck is going to be in the driver's kick panel, and yours is just to the left of where you put the gauges. So you'll either have to modify the truck to get the computer where the harness will stretch, or extend the harness to where your computer is now.

I'm doing the latter and it is really fiddly. But in my case I think it'll be worth it since I'm coming from a carb to a sequential fuel injection system using a mass air sensor. In your case, if you don't change the cam, intake, or exhaust you might not see much difference to your speed density/bank fire system.

Unfortunately, I didn't get the entire harness from the truck. My eventual plan for this truck when it comes to the computer is to swap to a megasquirt setup. The truck I pulled the brackets from is long gone. If I was looking to do a factory EEC-V swap, I would have liked to have had the entire 1996-spec harness. I did pull the 1996-specific timing cover with the crank sensor, though.

THAT'S dedication, to get down to the timing cover in a JY!

I'm glad you managed to get it in one piece.

99% of them are badly corroded and stuck to the bolts by this point.

[Gary Lewis]

THAT'S dedication, to get down to the timing cover in a JY!

I'm glad you managed to get it in one piece.

99% of them are badly corroded and stuck to the bolts by this point.

Yes, that's dedication!

But Megasquirt is another EFI system that I don't think will have much benefit if you don't plan to make significant changes to the engine. Having said that, if you do plan to make significant changes the SD system won't like that, so something's gotta change.

[Rembrant]

THAT'S dedication, to get down to the timing cover in a JY!

I'm glad you managed to get it in one piece.

99% of them are badly corroded and stuck to the bolts by this point.

That sure IS dedication, I agree. Once those bolts are corroded in the aluminum, the water pump removal is tough enough without getting into the timing cover.

I know it's too late now, but there is a way around having to replace the old CW carbed timing cover when switching to serpentine drive. Install a water pump from a 1986 Mustang 5.0 GT. I guess because Ford started using the serpentine drive system on the 5.0 when it was still carbed (or still used the old timing cover) they made a water pump with round ports instead of the D shaped ports. The pump with the round ports can be installed on either CW or CCW timing cover, and they're physically the same as all the other water pumps otherwise. I have one of these on my 5.0 now as I was planning to run an old carbed cover, but I ended up with an EFI timing cover anyway. What's his name put me on to this?...Who is the member on here that works at a Ford dealer in Oregon or Washington?...Earl?

[Rembrant]

Hey Giraffe,

Where did you get the triple gauge set? Have a link or a part number by chance?

[Giraffe]

THAT'S dedication, to get down to the timing cover in a JY!

I'm glad you managed to get it in one piece.

99% of them are badly corroded and stuck to the bolts by this point.

That sure IS dedication, I agree. Once those bolts are corroded in the aluminum, the water pump removal is tough enough without getting into the timing cover.

I know it's too late now, but there is a way around having to replace the old CW carbed timing cover when switching to serpentine drive. Install a water pump from a 1986 Mustang 5.0 GT. I guess because Ford started using the serpentine drive system on the 5.0 when it was still carbed (or still used the old timing cover) they made a water pump with round ports instead of the D shaped ports. The pump with the round ports can be installed on either CW or CCW timing cover, and they're physically the same as all the other water pumps otherwise. I have one of these on my 5.0 now as I was planning to run an old carbed cover, but I ended up with an EFI timing cover anyway. What's his name put me on to this?...Who is the member on here that works at a Ford dealer in Oregon or Washington?...Earl?

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n117235/wp-645_02__ra_p.jpg

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n117235/wp-657_01__ra_p.jpg

That's great information! In my case, it's better that I switched to the later timing cover since the original timing change was in bad need of replacement. I probably had more than a half inch of slop in the original single-roller chain. Not to mention it was the chain with plastic teeth on the cam gear. I replaced it with a Cloyes Street true double roller timing chain set.

Getting down to the timing cover in a junkyard isn't too difficult. It just requires the right tools. A 1/2" drive socket set, an electric impact, and a harmonic balancer removed work wonders.

[Giraffe]

Hey Giraffe,

Where did you get the triple gauge set? Have a link or a part number by chance?

I pieced it together.

The panel is from VDO: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vdo-240029

I would agree with some of the lower reviews on it. It is a bit flimsy in that the gauge clamps put indentations in the front of the panel. You'd have to look really close to see it, but it's still kind of annoying. Not too bad for less than $20.

The gauges are all Stewart Warner. They're all assembled in Mexico.

Oil pressure: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sww-284ae

Water temp: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sww-284af

Voltmeter: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sww-284h

I really like these gauges. My only gripe is that the needles don't move fluidly. Sometimes I'll have to tap the gauge a little bit to get the needle to move. They seem to be pretty accurate, though. You can tell when the thermostat opens just by looking at the temp gauge.

The senders are both electronic from Stewart Warner.

Oil: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sww-279a

Water: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sww-280ec