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Electrical help needed


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Hiya all

Hope this kinda post is welcomed.

I have a 1984 f250 351w, with nothing on ignition. Replaced the ignition switch, ignition, starter solenoid/relay. I can jump the starter to get the motor turning but no ignition. Can anyone point me in any directions to test anything?

This poor truck is pretty redneck fixed and I'm trying to restore it a bit out of that redneck shape haha

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As said last night, I'm guessing you didn't "calibrate" the ignition switch when you replaced it. Go to the Ignition Switch tab on the page at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition and you'll find the instructions from the factory shop manual.

When not properly adjusted they don't always pull all the way in when you turn the key, so the truck won't start. Or they might not turn all the way off. But the adjustment procedure will fix that - assuming that's the problem.

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As said last night, I'm guessing you didn't "calibrate" the ignition switch when you replaced it. Go to the Ignition Switch tab on the page at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition and you'll find the instructions from the factory shop manual.

When not properly adjusted they don't always pull all the way in when you turn the key, so the truck won't start. Or they might not turn all the way off. But the adjustment procedure will fix that - assuming that's the problem.

Well it seems that you jumped the starter relay/ solenoid and it turned over. Would it NOT turn over with the key? If not then re cal the switch

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What transmission is behind this 351w?

1984 with an auto trans will have a Neutral Safety Switch (Normally open, closed when in Park or Neutral). Manual trans will have a Clutch Lockout Switch (Normally open, closed when clutch depressed).

Both can block power from getting to the start relay/solenoid.

On manual trans trucks, there are still two wires in the harness than run down under the truck to the transmission (but there is a jumper installed, closing the circuit). My 1984 had this, under the cab along the frame.

Is this thing an auto with a really sloppy shifter by any chance?

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What transmission is behind this 351w?

1984 with an auto trans will have a Neutral Safety Switch (Normally open, closed when in Park or Neutral). Manual trans will have a Clutch Lockout Switch (Normally open, closed when clutch depressed).

Both can block power from getting to the start relay/solenoid.

On manual trans trucks, there are still two wires in the harness than run down under the truck to the transmission (but there is a jumper installed, closing the circuit). My 1984 had this, under the cab along the frame.

Is this thing an auto with a really sloppy shifter by any chance?

Had the same problem after I reinstalled a rebuilt steering column. It was the alignment on the ignition switch, exactly what Gary described.

If it is a manual, it could be the clutch safety switch. That doohickey has piece that can slide forward and back and if it has slipped far enough it will not close the circuit on the safety switch when you push the clutch in. You can find it behind your headlights switch. If it is in the wiring for that thing, I want to say it's light blue with a red stripe (check that on the EVTM). The thing is, it routes for both transmissions on the factory harness (Ford just terminates in a jumper on the unused side). If you aren't able to get continuity on that wire, you will need to check both places.

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Had the same problem after I reinstalled a rebuilt steering column. It was the alignment on the ignition switch, exactly what Gary described.

If it is a manual, it could be the clutch safety switch. That doohickey has piece that can slide forward and back and if it has slipped far enough it will not close the circuit on the safety switch when you push the clutch in. You can find it behind your headlights switch. If it is in the wiring for that thing, I want to say it's light blue with a red stripe (check that on the EVTM). The thing is, it routes for both transmissions on the factory harness (Ford just terminates in a jumper on the unused side). If you aren't able to get continuity on that wire, you will need to check both places.

And just FYI the clutch safety can be jumpered with a spare fuse.

The blades seem to fit the plug as if it were made for it. (though this shouldn't be a permanent solution)

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testing purposes only

Got the thing running but now I can only get to reverse, after that the steering column binds up and wants to twist almost as if something is obstructing it. I can't find anything

its an automatic with the column shifter

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Got the thing running but now I can only get to reverse, after that the steering column binds up and wants to twist almost as if something is obstructing it. I can't find anything

its an automatic with the column shifter

Sounds like the column linkage is out of sync with the transmission's linkage. If I remember correctly you can loosen a bolt on the linkage and put the column in Park and put the transmission in Park and then tighten the bolt.

BUT! Make sure the truck isn't going roll when you take the tranny out of Park.

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Sounds like the column linkage is out of sync with the transmission's linkage. If I remember correctly you can loosen a bolt on the linkage and put the column in Park and put the transmission in Park and then tighten the bolt.

BUT! Make sure the truck isn't going roll when you take the tranny out of Park.

SUCCESs, dont know what fixed it but went on a test drive to only blow an oil pressure gauge line

Goo meee woooo

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