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I did the kingpins in my driveway, on uneven asphalt. Normally I'd do that in the garage, but my galaxie sits in there and I didn't want to leave that out for a week straight. That job wasn't so bad, but I did so much hammering getting the pins out (wasn't even that much) I lost the feeling in my left hand for a while. It might be for sale! something also happened with the engine about a year or so ago, it has some blowby now and the MPG took a bit of a dive and it started using a little bit of oil, still runs the same though.

I can see why you are considering selling. :nabble_smiley_oh:

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I can see why you are considering selling. :nabble_smiley_oh:

I think I will try and replace the rivet and use a thick hardened washer to clamp the crack stationary since it runs through the centerline of the rivet hole before anything else. I don't see why that wouldn't help at the very least. Worth a try. I did find a pretty good-sized window in the frame itself next to the shock tower and I can almost touch the rivet on the inside with my fingers, so that makes it easier. I shall report back on this one.

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I think I will try and replace the rivet and use a thick hardened washer to clamp the crack stationary since it runs through the centerline of the rivet hole before anything else. I don't see why that wouldn't help at the very least. Worth a try. I did find a pretty good-sized window in the frame itself next to the shock tower and I can almost touch the rivet on the inside with my fingers, so that makes it easier. I shall report back on this one.

It is worth a try. Good luck!

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I think I will try and replace the rivet and use a thick hardened washer to clamp the crack stationary since it runs through the centerline of the rivet hole before anything else. I don't see why that wouldn't help at the very least. Worth a try. I did find a pretty good-sized window in the frame itself next to the shock tower and I can almost touch the rivet on the inside with my fingers, so that makes it easier. I shall report back on this one.

Matthew, first drill a small hole at the end of the crack. This is called a stopper and is used to keep it from growing any further.

Second, see if you can find a good welder who can work with you to (a) grind a vee in the crack and (b) weld it together and then while everything is in position install the bolt and torque it.

Good luck with it!

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Matthew, first drill a small hole at the end of the crack. This is called a stopper and is used to keep it from growing any further.

Second, see if you can find a good welder who can work with you to (a) grind a vee in the crack and (b) weld it together and then while everything is in position install the bolt and torque it.

Good luck with it!

If I wind up getting that far into it, I can weld it myself, I have a pretty serious powcon welder (both ARC and MIG) and not afraid of doing it, just don't want to do it. From what I saw on the endoscope the crack goes completely to the end/corner of the edge of the crossmember. I cannot see a crack on the outside where it comes out of the frame though, so it's not that bad. I remember seeing new crossmembers for sale a while back, but can't find them anymore? I drove the truck a bit today, it drives pretty well, about as well as it ever has but that crack is allowing a little bit of play into the steering system when everything flexes, isn't much but enough to notice. I'll give the hardened flat washer and grade 8 bolt a try first and see if it keeps everything tight. If not, I guess I'll be gaining access to it and welding the thing up.

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If I wind up getting that far into it, I can weld it myself, I have a pretty serious powcon welder (both ARC and MIG) and not afraid of doing it, just don't want to do it. From what I saw on the endoscope the crack goes completely to the end/corner of the edge of the crossmember. I cannot see a crack on the outside where it comes out of the frame though, so it's not that bad. I remember seeing new crossmembers for sale a while back, but can't find them anymore? I drove the truck a bit today, it drives pretty well, about as well as it ever has but that crack is allowing a little bit of play into the steering system when everything flexes, isn't much but enough to notice. I'll give the hardened flat washer and grade 8 bolt a try first and see if it keeps everything tight. If not, I guess I'll be gaining access to it and welding the thing up.

I'm still curious as to which cross member and which rivet it is. i can assume that it is in the area behind the steering gear. I have not run into anything like this and always want to know more.

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I'm still curious as to which cross member and which rivet it is. i can assume that it is in the area behind the steering gear. I have not run into anything like this and always want to know more.

Gary has this pretty well documented here on the forum. 😆

I'm sure if you search "huck bolt" it will turn up his posts.

The TSB listed above is correct.

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I'm still curious as to which cross member and which rivet it is. i can assume that it is in the area behind the steering gear. I have not run into anything like this and always want to know more.

It's this rivet right here.

277825050_741321837032513_5354884614272530995_n.thumb.jpg.6bd668b611de206d7808dc89670980eb.jpg

277611433_742268706939863_8494781695616612254_n.thumb.jpg.9ea0eed52a96a4b21329bd751454dfa0.jpg

277416912_529975198541946_6951814279132147203_n.thumb.jpg.b80385f212a362e163d29b32a27295e3.jpg

That is the crossmember repair that was done in March of 2005 at 190,000 miles according to the paperwork in the glovebox. Les schwab charged the original owner $125 for that weld!

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It's this rivet right here.

That is the crossmember repair that was done in March of 2005 at 190,000 miles according to the paperwork in the glovebox. Les schwab charged the original owner $125 for that weld!

Well the rivet replacement was a success. I'm not sure where the crack went as I couldn't find it after cleaning all the grease and grime out of the area. A 1/2" shouldered grade 8 flange bolt fit snugly in the wallered out 7/16" rivet hole, I used a hardened washer under the bolt and a hardened washer on the outside of the frame with a grade 8 metal locking nut, torqued to 100 ft lbs with some red loctite. The truck never drove so good the entire 10 years I've had it, I guess I will keep it around now.

277948126_1525901691136956_3328611977176836629_n.thumb.jpg.ff6664e539e4948ba6fc0cd10962dc33.jpg277821882_646020710032011_627071729038718461_n.thumb.jpg.a15531d65afe33ec5b2b41f598fa48f5.jpg277991300_1462020614215273_8617028132905153373_n.thumb.jpg.d5f31771eeb0f013c9f1f0d37aa1bce1.jpg

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Well the rivet replacement was a success. I'm not sure where the crack went as I couldn't find it after cleaning all the grease and grime out of the area. A 1/2" shouldered grade 8 flange bolt fit snugly in the wallered out 7/16" rivet hole, I used a hardened washer under the bolt and a hardened washer on the outside of the frame with a grade 8 metal locking nut, torqued to 100 ft lbs with some red loctite. The truck never drove so good the entire 10 years I've had it, I guess I will keep it around now.

Well done! :nabble_anim_claps: Glad it worked out so well.

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